New SPS Tank for JBNY

[JBNY]

That lighting looks slick! Well done!

Thanks, I'm really happy with it!

 

[JBNY]

Time to get some water in this bad boy.

For rock I had picked up a some base dry rock. Java Reef Rock and CaribSea liferock arches. I really don't like the look of bare bottom, and have never had problems with sand beds. Even with a 18 year old sand bed last time I had zero issues with it and when I pulled it out it hardly smelled at all, so I am going with sand again. I decided to spring for the good stuff CaribSea Special Grade for the sand. Every time in the past I had used home depot play sand, I never had problems with it, and I never rinsed it. But not rinsing it always made a huge mess in the tank that took a long time to settle so this time I rinsed all the sand before putting it in the tank. Just put it in a bucket and ran water through it till the water ran clear and them dumped it in the tank. After all the sand was in, I used a 2x4 to level the sand throughout the tank.

(cleaning the sand, yep cleaning sand)​

(Live shot of me cleaning the sand!)​

(each cleaned up bucket of sand gets dumped in the tank)​

(smoothing out the sand before adding the rock)​

Sand in, I attempted to do some aquascaping, but after a few attempts I wasn't happy with anything. So I just decided to add water and do the aquascaping with the water in the tank. So I just put the rock in and will work it out later.

(rock just looks like a pile of rocks, I'll worry about this later)​

For the water I did NOT use RODI at all, just tap water from the hose. Water is not too bad on Long Island, and I really didn't feel like waiting 3 days day to fill it up with RODI water. So I brought the hose from the backyard into the living room and tank was filled in about 20 minutes. Hope using tap water is not a mistake...time will tell.

(put a bucket and tray to keep the hose water from blowing sand everywhere. It worked well)​

(The tank filled up quick, this is probably 5 minutes in)​

(almost there!)​

(all done, whole thing was under 30 minutes)​

Water in, I turned on the main pump and added salt. I mixed the salt in the sump till I got to 35ppt. I used Red Sea Blue bucket for all my salt. Salt added, I let it sit for two days with the pumps on just to make sure all the salt was properly mixed and the plumbing was working correctly . Played with the aquascaping a few more times to see if I could come up with anything I liked, will work on the rock work over time.

 

[JBNY]

The first few days were uneventful, water cleared, no surfacing biofilm. During this time I picked up a Maxspect Gyre XF350 Cloud Edition pump (pump only), and hooked it into a Hydros WaveEngine V2 to make sure the pump worked without issues. No problems at all. So I added the hardware under the stand.

(adding the Hydros WaveEngine and Gyre to the board)​

I also was able to pick up a small amount (about 15lbs) of live rock from the LFS, that went into the tank as well. Now I to get ready to cycle the tank

So on September 8th, 2025 I dosed ammonia (14 ml, ~1 ppm ammonia target) to the tank to begin the cycle. After about an hour I added two bottles of Fritz TurboStart 900 to seed nitrifying bacteria.

On the 2nd day I turned on the skimmer (Ultra Reef Akula UKS-200) and it immediately went berserk, overflowing aggressively even wide open. I left the top off and just let it run overflowing in the sump, it will settle down in time.

On Day 3 I measured Ammonia at ~0.05 ppm

(day 3, ~0.05ppm)​

Day 5 Ammonia was almost at 0 ppm

(almost at zero)​

On day 7 Ammonia was 0.

Day 12 Nitrate comes down to 37.9 pmm and I dose another 14ml of ammonia. Then test Ammonia 24 later to see if it is at zero.

(day 12 Nitrates)​

(Day 14 ammonia after dosing 1ppm the day before. Showing 0 ppm)​

Next day Ammonia shows 0, just what I was looking for. Tanks looks to be effectively cycled, but I'll hang out another week or so before I think about adding anything.

 

[Reginald Reefer III]

The first few days were uneventful, water cleared, no surfacing biofilm. During this time I picked up a Maxspect Gyre XF350 Cloud Edition pump (pump only), and hooked it into a Hydros WaveEngine V2 to make sure the pump worked without issues. No problems at all. So I added the hardware under the stand.

(adding the Hydros WaveEngine and Gyre to the board)​

I also was able to pick up a small amount (about 15lbs) of live rock from the LFS, that went into the tank as well. Now I to get ready to cycle the tank

So on September 8th, 2025 I dosed ammonia (14 ml, ~1 ppm ammonia target) to the tank to begin the cycle. After about an hour I added two bottles of Fritz TurboStart 900 to seed nitrifying bacteria.

On the 2nd day I turned on the skimmer (Ultra Reef Akula UKS-200) and it immediately went berserk, overflowing aggressively even wide open. I left the top off and just let it run overflowing in the sump, it will settle down in time.

On Day 3 I measured Ammonia at ~0.05 ppm

(day 3, ~0.05ppm)​

Day 5 Ammonia was almost at 0 ppm

(almost at zero)​

On day 7 Ammonia was 0.

Day 12 Nitrate comes down to 37.9 pmm and I dose another 14ml of ammonia. Then test Ammonia 24 later to see if it is at zero.

(day 12 Nitrates)​

(Day 14 ammonia after dosing 1ppm the day before. Showing 0 ppm)​

Next day Ammonia shows 0, just what I was looking for. Tanks looks to be effectively cycled, but I'll hang out another week or so before I think about adding anything.

Awesome looking build! Following along!

 

[JBNY]

So with the tank effectively cycled it is the waiting phase for right now. I worked on other parts of the system to get them fixed up or online. I think that this is the part a lot of new reefers think they need to buy everything immediately and have everything setup all at once. In the beginning there is literally weeks of nothing happening in the tank that is the perfect time to setup or work on other parts of the system.

First was the lights. I had them up but needed to clean up the look to be more of what I wanted for the tank. Over the summer, I got a 3D printer (Bambu XC1) that I had been putting to good use around the house, time to see what it could do with the reef. So for the lights I printed out some ends caps for the light rail, and I also made a bracket/hook, that I attached to the back wall, for the cables coming off the LED panels. As I learned with my old MH pendant, and this applies to the LED fixtures as well, the cables want to pull the a hanging fixture towards them so you need to raise the cable up a little to counter than. To do this I routed the cables behind the aluminum rail, and then used braided sleeving to cover and tidy up the cables. Then I hooked them over the bracket I printed and attached to the back wall. Came out with a very clean look.

(put some end caps on the light rail, routed the cables to the center and over the wall bracket)​

(lighting came out just how I wanted it)

I also finalized the aquascaping. I used almost all rocks in the shape of arches to create a very open space so that it both looks like there is a lot of rock but also like there is a lot of space. I think this will work out good for the SPS corals when they finally go in. Lots of places for fish to swim in and out of, and lots of places to put coral frags.

(aquascaping all done, I hope!)​

 

[JBNY]

Now seems the perfect time for cleaning inspecting the RODI unit that has been in service for years. No real changes were made when I cleaned everything up. I did replace all the cartridges, except the RO membrane, with new ones. I also thoroughly cleaned the Brute container that serves as the RODI reservoir with a few of Milton sterilizing tables I had on hand. I put about 5 gallons of water in and dropped a few tablets in the water then scrubbed it out. Cleaned out the inside and all the hoses, pumps and the floats, when I was done I put a few gallons of rodi water in, let it sit for a while and tested it with a chlorine strip, all good.

(tables I used to clean out the inside of the rodi container)​

(container after being cleaned. At this point I think this is 20+ years old, looks brand new)​

I keep all my system records in Obsidian for reference. Here is my entry for the RO DI setup so you can see what I have.

RO/DI Production System

Overview

Five-stage RO/DI system supplying a sealed 44-gallon Brute reservoir used exclusively for top-off water. System operates on a fully automated fill cycle driven by a dedicated water-level controller (independent of Hydros), with layered electrical and leak-detection safeguards.

Filtration Stages

• Pre-stage: cold water metal mesh filter for large sediments
• Stage 1: 1 µm ROSave.Z depth sediment filter
• Stage 2–3: (2×) BRS 5 µm Chlorine & VOC carbon block
• Stage 4: 75 GPD TFC membrane
• Stage 5–6: (2×) mixed-bed DI resin canisters in series

Booster Pump: Watts CPD-6800
Auto-Flush: Aquatic Water Systems AFR-605 (automatic membrane flush flow-restrictor)

Plumbing & Controls

• Feed water controlled by 120V **AC solenoid valve** tied to the level-controller output.
• Booster pump and solenoid both energized only during fill cycles.
• RO product line enters Brute lid via bulkhead but **drops ~6″ above waterline**, maintaining a true air gap for anti-siphon protection.
• Waste line routed to drain (standard configuration).
• No direct Hydros involvement in production; Hydros only monitors water quality (TDS).

Reservoir (44-Gallon Brute)

• Strictly RO storage (no mixing pump, no saltwater contact).
• Lid kept closed during operation to limit airborne contamination.
• Bulkhead: ¾″ outlet with long black utility hose for manual water transfers (water changes, equipment cleaning, etc.).
• ATO Pump: Eheim 1101.310 submersible pump located inside the reservoir.
• ATO line enters display-sump with a **6″ free-air drop**, giving a second anti-siphon break independent of check valve.
• Check valve in place on ATO line for pump-off backflow protection.

Water-Level Control (Primary Automation)
Located inside the Brute:

• Float 1 (Bottom): Calls for production when water level falls; starts 6800 pump + opens solenoid.
• Float 2 (Top): Normal shutoff; closes solenoid and kills pump.
• Float 3 (Upper Safety): Hard-stop fail-safe; overrides top float if it sticks.

System fills ~35 gallons per cycle.

Safeguards & Leak Detection

• Insteon leak sensors around Brute; if triggered, Home Assistant cuts power to the entire RODI circuit via Insteon outlet.
• Multiple electrical cutoffs (controller, leak-automation, and float redundancy).
• Physical air-gap on both product water and ATO discharge eliminates siphon paths.

TDS Monitoring

• HYDROS Dual Inline TDS Monitor
  • Sensor 1: Post-RO (membrane output)
  • Sensor 2: Post-DI (final product water)
• Hydros monitors values; does not control production.
• Source water TDS: ~5–10 ppm typical.

Maintenance Cadence

• Sediment, carbon, and DI cartridges replaced as needed, with decisions based on TDS rise and visual inspection.
• AFR-605 provides continuous automatic membrane flushing to extend membrane life.

(5 stage RO/DI unit)​

(prefilter: coarse mesh to keep out any larger particles that might be in the water line)​

I have to give a shout of to this product that I bought at the 2006 or 2007 MACNA. Some guys was selling this Water-Level Controller for rodi units. he was making them and said they were encased in resin so they would last a long time. I think I paid $45 for it, and it still works perfectly. This is the unit below you can see the floats it uses in the container above.

(Autotop Deluxe. Still in use after almost 20 years)​

 

[JonoH]

Looking good and great write up! Cant wait to see this grow out.

 

[xiaoxiy]

Welcome back to the hobby!

 

[JBNY]

A few days after the tank is cycled on 9/25 things are going fine, noticing a bit of haze compared to the clear water that was in the tank a few days earlier. Just a little new tank bloom and the diatoms should start up soon, nothing in the tank right now, so just observing. Lights are on in this picture but I still have not turned the lights on permanently. Still lights out for the tank.

(Less than 3 weeks into the cycle)​

September 29th I start lighting the tank. I turn lights on for 6 hours (includes 1 hour ramp up/down) a day at 19% intensity to get thing going.

My spectrum I chose for the early phase of the cycle and my reasoning are

V: 90
This adds a bit of UV actinic energy that favors coralline spores later and slightly suppresses green film algae.

RB: 255
B: 255
RB and B strong chlorophyll-a excitation for coralline and bacterial film.

C: 40
W: 70
R: 40
White, cyan, and red trimmed down and keeps the overall spectral peak narrow and discourages green algae proliferation.

Over the next week more diatoms and a little bit of hair algae.

October 8th, Added about 10 snails to the tank (trochus and astrea). Over the last week the tank went from a little diatoms on the rock and sand to a little bit of reddish film on the glass and sand.

(diatoms in full force now)​

(with the little bit of algae at this point I added some snails)​

Today the tanks looks cloudy and a red film on everything. Looks like cyano so I blew off the rocks, but holy there is a lot so quickly. Also got a nice cup or coralline scrapings and added that to the tank as well. Tank is definitely getting hazy looks my first bacterial bloom is coming.

(I feel an algae bloom coming)​

(cup of coralline algae was added with several nice color morphs to seed the tank)​

Also on 10/08 I do a round of tests with my Hanna test kits to get my first baseline for the tank.
Ca 497 No3 33.5 Mg 1310 Po4 0.14 Alk 7.78 pH 8.28

Ca 497 ppm: Slightly high. Coralline can use it, it’ll probably drift downward over time.
Mg 1310 ppm: Perfect. That’s the stabilizer that will keeps Ca and Alk balanced
Alk 7.78 dKH: On the low side for a young system, I'll bump this up a bit. Coralline does better around 8.3-8.6
pH 8.28: Excellent for this early
NO3 33.5 ppm / PO4 0.14 ppm: Nutrient-rich, but balanced. It will beneficial for biofilm and coralline to take hold hopefully it doesn't climb much higher.

I mix up some Seachem reefbuilder I have lying around and bump up the alk to around 8.4

Let's see what happens next.

 

[mfama417]

I remember your threads from the RC days! Where in LI are you? I’m in Farmingdale.

 

[JBNY]

I remember your threads from the RC days! Where in LI are you? I’m in Farmingdale.

Those were the early day of keeping SPS, so much to figure out back then. I’m in Port Jeff.

 

[JBNY]

Now the fun begins! Over the next 2 days the water has gone from pretty clear to a thick hazy green. I know it is part of the cycle but it's starting to look pretty bad. I'm about 1 month in at this point.

(the phytoplankton bloom begins)​

This was the most interesting part so far for me. for the past few tanks I have always had the benefit of only partially restarting the tank, I was always able to use pre-cured rock or sand that was established already. The last time I truly cycled a tank was late 2000, and back then I was able to get Fiji and Tonga live rock directly from those locations shipped to my local airport for something like $2.75 a pound, that included shipping! This time I did it with all dry everything, rock and sand. Some of the fun in this hobby for me is to try different approaches for reef keeping, and starting from scratch with a new tank is one of them. So with all that said, this was such a different experience from what I had with LR/LS, gives me a new appreciation for the newbie.

The green water bloom that I was seeing was most likely from the lights being on for over a week being the trigger tons of dissolved nutrients in a well-lit, stable environment with no grazers. I guess that’s all it takes for microalgae to take off in the water column.

I say to myself, this is part of the tank maturation is the system basically discovering the food web. I'll leave the light on, let the skimmer run, and no water changes yet I feel the water changes could reset and refuel the bloom. It should clear on it's own in 2 weeks time (hopefully).

So what to do when the tank turns to a phytoplankton soup? Add some pods. I have a local friend who is cultivating copepods. So I get a nice batch from him and add them to the tank, pod are great for the tank in general and can really chew through phytoplankton if their numbers get large enough.

(container densely filled with pods. Perfect time to add them to the tank)​

 

[JBNY]

Oct 11th, we hit phytoplankton culture stage, lol

By the 11th the tank is densely green. I have never experienced water this green during a cycle or ever. This is my first plankton bloom, I had never had it happen in my older tank. Pretty fascinating to watch, I mean there is nothing in the tank right now, so what does it matter. Let it burn out, but it is interesting to watch it clear up at night and then take off during the day. They day night rhythm is pretty cool. But it is crazy how dense it is.

(green soup before the lights come on)​

(not that bad, I can still see inside)​

(sand it looking pretty gross too)​

(by the 12th it looks much worse. You can see the phyto moving through the current it is so thick)​

By the 13th, I decide that now is probably a good time to bring my ozone online. I have a Ozotech Poseidon 200 for the ozone and use a Fluval Q2 air pump to push the ozone to the intake of the skimmer. I use a tee fitting and let one side pull in air and the other gets ozone from the pump. I have found that doing it this way keeps the skimmer foam pretty consistent whether the ozone is on or off. I normally only run ozone for some water clarity, so just a few hours on in the daytime (11am-5pm). So I hook that up with the ozone a a low level (2 on the dial) the thought is that the ozone will oxidize the pigments and cell walls of free-floating phyto and dinos without significantly disturbing the bacterial base. The skimmate should pick and get darker in a few days too.

(time to bring the ozone online)

(I inject the ozone into the tee to also let fresh air into the skimmer)

OK, let's see how that goes.

 

[Mellotang]

Did O3 have impact on beneficial bacteria?

No doubt it will oxidize the phyto cell walls and make it easier for PSK to remove

Great build thread!

 

[Gumbies R Us]

Following along!

 

[JBNY]

I think the beneficial bacteria were largely untouched, mostly because the level of o3 was low and and targeted to use during the day when the phyto was most active. I definitely think it helped, still took a few more days to see an impact.

 

[JBNY]

Now I have some time before this plankton bloom goes away. Over the next few days I fix and set up a few things.

Aquawiz. I bought one over the summer, Heard about it, thought it was really cool and found a really good deal on a new one so I bought it back in August, so I hooked it up and let it run. Instructions are the worst, but used youtube to set it up. Actually it is very easy to setup they just need better instructions. It is probably too early to start using it but who cares, it's doesn't cost anything to run tests and it gives me time to become familiar with how it works and its accuracy. It works very well, and let's you take measurements every hour. I will check it every few days and it seems to drift a bit right now, but I think that is because my tank is a phytoplankton experiment at the moment. We'll see if it works better later on (spoiler alert, it does). I actually can't find any pictures from when I first put in so this is a recent shot.

(aquawiz, let's see how this is long term, for now it's pretty nice)​

Next is Siporax. Ever use this stuff, or even heard of it? I bought 4 boxes (1 Liter each) about 12 years ago based on a discussion I had on the RC SPS forums. Supposed to be great at keeping nitrates in check. I bought it and never got around to actually using it so it sat on a shelf until I was cleaning out the fish room and found it buried in a box. So now I'm thinking, I'm using this thing and will see how it does.

If you never heard of it, Siporax is sintered glass with a gradient of pore sizes, not just surface area for bacteria. The outer surface is the aerobic zone, fast nitrification like other surfaces, nothing special. What is different is that deeper in the media, as you move inward, oxygen diffusion drops off and you get slow partial denitrification. But it takes time to get there. The timeline is supposed to be 2-6 weeks surface colonization then stable nitrification. 8-12 weeks nitrate reduction starts and should be fully working by 3-4 months. I think it will over time it help to smooth out swings and give the tank more Nitrate buffering ability as the bioload increases. At least that is what I think it will do, I had a bunch of notes from back then and I just never used it.

So initially I'm thinking I'll start with 1 box, 1 liter. I rinse it off and throw it in the top sump to just get it going. I buy a shallow basket off Amazon that is food safe to keep the siporax in. The basket allows for a shallow bed, about 3-4" deep. When I get the basket I make some 1"legs using 1/2" pvc to keep everything suspended off the sump floor. Move the siporax there and leave it alone. Eventually I'll rinse the media in old tank water every 3-4 months when doing a water change. But that is it for now.

(siporax in the sump to get it going. Look how green that water is! haha)​

(nice shallow basket that lets water in all around the siporax)​

(you can see the PVC feet I made and cable tied in to keep the basket off the sump floor)​

Last piece is to fix the faucet I am using in the sump room. 18 years ago I picked up a double sink setup from some charity store and the faucet is in dire needs of being replaced, So I picked up a new faucet on Amazon for $39 and put that in. Works and looks great, $39!

(this faucet has seen better days, it's got to go)​

(much better, only $39!!)​

Oh yeah, I looking at this phytoplankton mess in my tank make me think I need to get more pods, so I place an order with Algae Barn to add one of their packages to the tank.

(more pods is more good!)​

And finally after about 4 days the skimmer starts to pull some real dark stuff out of the tank, yeah!

(That's what I'm talking about! Skimmate looking gross!)​

 

[JBNY]

Here is where things start getting interesting.

10/15 I do a round of testing:
pH: 8.2
Alk: 8.1
Nitrate: 32.1
Phosphate: 0.0
All tested using Hanna kits

pH 8.2 / Alk 8.1 dKH prefect for coralline and bacterial balance
Nitrate 32.1 ppm Right where it should be. That’s still residual from the ammonia dosing and the start of the bloom collapse. fine for fueling coralline and biofilm growth. This should drift down slowly through normal bacterial and skimmer activity.

Phosphate 0.00 ppm This the red flag. I've probably hit a temporary phosphate crash because the phyto bloom and early film bacteria pulled nearly all available PO4 out of the water. Also running ozone with the skimmer can amplify that.

So I need to reintroduce trace phosphate, just enough to bring it back into the measurable range (0.02–0.05 ppm).

I'm a big fan of mixing your own dosing solution (as you will find out) . I have some monopotassium phosphate that I will use to make up a dosing solution. For my tank I have about 330 gallon, or 1250 Liters. If you are going to start dosing on you own I recommend thinking in liters not gallons. it makes things much easier. So for 1250 liters I need to mix 10g of monopotassium phosphate (MKP) into 1 Liter of rodi water. That gives me a solution of 0.00227g PO4/mL.

(monopotassium phosphate, MKP)​

So each mL of this solution adds ≈ 0.00227g

For my system I get these dosing guidelines

+0.01 ppm = 5.5 mL
+0.02 ppm = 11 mL
+0.03 ppm = 16 mL

So I will start with adding 11ml to a high flow section of the sump to dose the tank. This also gives me a slight potassium bump, a little less than 2 ppm of K, which is fine. It's good for coralline and SPS.

So on 10/16 I dose 11ml MKP. The next day, skimmer is running very good and pulling some really dark skimmate. I just cleaned the cup 15 hours ago, so a good amount of skimmate, exactly what I wanted. I test P on 10/17 and it is at 0.01 awesome. So that tells me that the tanks daily phosphate demand is roughly 0.01–0.015 ppm/day right now. The idea is to not let phosphate bottom out, tons of things are using it in a new tank. Bacteria, diatoms, and coralline are using phosphate to grow, also dry rock and sand (because they are new) will absorb P until they are saturated. Once that adsorption layer saturates, P will stop disappearing so fast and that’s when I can start to see coralline spread and film algae balance out. So I add another 10ml of MKP on 10/17 as well.

10/18 P is at 0.02 on the Hanna meter. AND the sand looks marginally better of dinos, and the water column definitely looks clearer of phytoplankton, still cloudy but I can see progress. Looks like the skimmer and ozone are helping with the bloom and the higher P hopefully keeps the dino at bay. So no MKP dose today and I will test again tomorrow.

(phytoplakto bloom is lessening)​

(sandbed is looking better too)​

10/19 P is again at 0.0 on the Hanna. So Phosphate demand is still in force. So I dose another 11ml of MKP. No other changes.

So I've been a fan if higher N and P for a very long time. With my old tank 10+ years ago I was dosing nitrates and monitoring phosphates to keep them stable. At that time my tank was already established and phosphates were more of something to monitor so they don't get too high. But in a new tank, phosphate disappearing isn’t algae using it up, it’s the system not being finished yet. Fresh rock, sand, and media chemically bind phosphate, and early bacterial biofilms consume huge amounts of it while the tank is building its biological foundation. Until those surfaces and microbes are saturated, any P you add just vanishes and read zero. So right now I'm testing and dosing phosphate so the tank can reach an equilibrium, that's the point where the tank stops instantly absorbing everything and starts biologically cycling nutrients. Once that happens, phosphate becomes stable and more predictable instead of always falling back to zero, then the system can behave like a more mature reef instead of a nutrient sink.

10/20 phosphate tested 0.00. So the tank’s still soaking up P. Yesterday’s +0.02 ppm went to 0 in 24 h so the surfaces/biofilm aren’t saturated yet. This time I will dose 0.03ppm and split it between the morning (11ml) and the evening (5.5ml). 10/21 Still testing 0 phosphates. I do the split dosing of 0.03ppm of MKP. Next day 10/22 I get 0.05 on the Hanna. Hopefully the system is stabilizing. The Phytoplankton bloom is looking much better too, funny how adding phosphates can help the tank overcome algae problems.

(Phyto bloom is significantly less, alright)​

OK so now I have a dilemma. I have been monitoring phosphates so closely and I have to leave town on 10/23 for a few days to go to a wedding. I don't want to make a mistake with all I have been doing. I can have someone dose the tank but they can not test anything. So I measured P right before I leave for my flight on 10/23, Hanna measured 0.02 PO4, good. I will dilute 6ml of stock MKP into a 475ml jar and leave that for my friend to add on 10/25 in the evening while I am away. I feel that 6ml is still probably safe, with the drop overnight, and diluting it in a jar makes it easier for the person just to dump it into sump rather than slowly adding 6ml from a small vial.

So those are the instruction, I go off to my cousins wedding, have an awesome time. I come on 10/26 and test my Phosphates...0.06ppm. I love it when things go according to plan.

 

[TexAgReefer]

Loving this build thread. THANK YOU for sharing the full journey, including the struggle/solution.

Your documentation was impressive!

 

[JBNY]

Loving this build thread. THANK YOU for sharing the full journey, including the struggle/solution.

Your documentation was impressive!

Thank you. We all have problems, I've learned the most from my mistakes.

haha I always feel I could be doing a better job writing things down. But I have notes all over. My notes from my last few tanks have been invaluable to me to remember what I did and why I did it. Sometimes even seeing a date that is much later or earlier than I thought I did something is helpful. I try.