New Tank (cycle incomplete) - 1 Clownfish seems sick.

[Empti]

That's not going to help your tank, though, as removing the fish doesn't remove the risk to your tank. If you've introduced a pathogen into your build you're going to have to consider treating it, or run the risk of infecting any other fish that you put into it. You may have to go fallow if you diagnose a treatable disease or parasititc infection.

Yeah I'm going to follow up with the LFS about how he turns out, hopefully it wasn't anything pathogenic.

 

[Empti]

I will never own either test kit, that’s how unnecessary ammonia and nitrite is to know starting day one. Nitrite is neutral in saltwater keeping start to finish, so we skip measuring it always. Ammonia can harm if left untended in a cycle, but quickly comes under control in aquatic systems and then doesn’t ever get uncontrolled unless fish dieoff happens and ammonia doesn’t cause that…hardware issues or disease always causes fish death in multiples.

that doesn’t mean I’m ignoring raw ammonia burns in the reefs we cycle either... it means we have alternate markers and measurement points for reefs that make api unnecessary at all stages start to finish

and these markers, when verified on digital testers that don’t mislead us wildly, always pass safety nh3 tolerances.

valid markers for testless reefing (cycle testless, some reefs still need calcium and alk monitoring):

-time frame: anything with feed or any type of bottle bac + 10 days wait (the ammonia drop line from a cycle chart) will carry a common starting fish bioload. Change water on day ten for a clean start, begin.

-bottle bac: any use of Dr Tims cycling bacteria, biospira or Fritz, carries fish on day one when the bacteria are added. Lots of times it says so on the label, because they’ve studied bac in bottles and have already measured ability to oxidize ammonia out of the bottle in their qa testing and logging at the factory. Some bottles are dead, but so few I’ve never seen one instance of it in any of my cycling threads. Disease is always the sole stressor, occasionally it’s bad acclimation and floating shipment bags too long killing by ammonia within the bag, not from the tank.

-visual benthic cues: any tank pic showing diatoms in the sand or rocks, or new algae growth, or new cyano, means cycled for base ammonia control. Those secondary growths come after ability to control ammonia, not before, always. Any use of live rock from another reef skip cycles the whole reef it’s transferred to, without dieoff. We can see attachments latched onto real live rock…not all cycles have to be fed bottle bac as some cycles using live rock are instant ready tanks with zero wait.

-shipped ocean rocks don’t need ammonia testing. Hand cure off all the tunicates, large algae tufts and unidentified growths likely to die off in a tank. Cure the rocks for ten days in the cleaned condition, they’ll stop leaking ammonia by then, always.

every form of cycling already has a known completion date and no cycle is ever a challenge to solve. None are mysteries, all are compliant depending on the tester we choose to believe.

see how ammonia performance is already charted for every way we can cycle? It’s why I’ll never own the tests. day ten wait is a big deal in cycle start date assessment, all cycling charts agree. Six weeks with water is beyond all known charted timing maximums by a few times over.

Lots of people have told me to let the tank mature with stable parameters for atleast 4-6 months before I throw coral/anemones in there. Obviously there's more to consider then just the nitrogen cycle but I'm getting the impression that's not necessary?

 

[aggrofish]

Add a bottle of dr Tim’s one and only.

 

[davidcalgary29]

Lots of people have told me to let the tank mature with stable parameters for atleast 4-6 months before I throw coral/anemones in there. Obviously there's more to consider then just the nitrogen cycle but I'm getting the impression that's not necessary?

Yes and no. There is -- as you'll read here -- a great deal of difference between a cycled tank and a mature tank, and it's harder to get certain corals and anemones to thrive in a young tank. Not impossible, but harder. If you want to try your hand at "difficult" corals in a new system, it's probably best to do so with a very light bioload, get a skimmer or other top-of-the line export system, and maintain pristine water conditions. If this is not an option for you, then stick with soft corals and rock flower anemones until your tank stabilizes and "matures".

 

[James5214]

Did it get into fight with other clown? One night after lights went out I woke up to my clown with jaw stuck open. It got dislocated fighting with other clown. I tried to fix it but no success... After a week of no eating he finally passed away.