New Teco TK1000 not working as expected.

[DanyL]

How long is your tubing from the chiller to the tank?

I’ve heard of long tubing to cause an ever-ending runtime on chillers before, requiring insulation of the tubing, and usually a beefier chiller to work properly.

Also a chiller that doesn’t have enough room to sufficiently dissipate the heat from its area may hurt the efficiency as well, and make it work harder or even cause the water to heat back up rapidly if it’s in an enclosed cabinet for example.

If that’s not the case, I would still try to play with the water flow, this parameter alone can change a lot on how the chiller performs.

At least from what I remember from the time when I actually followed instructions, the water flow almost never exactly matched the official recommendations, and I don’t see how it ever could - different volumes would require different flow rates.
The adjustment will likely lay within 30-40 percent of the recommended flow rate, so it’s not far off but definitely enough to make a significant change in performance.
Hope you’ll find the culprit, because there’s definitely something wrong here.

 

[Brad Wilkins]

averaging about 40-50min here room temp 27-31C area - chart is 24h - measured the flow 600L/H
Thats a Hailea unit so controller turns on at 28.0 and off at 26.9

How big is your tank and size of the unit?

 

[2una]

How big is your tank and size of the unit?

600L net -1/2 HP Hailea HS 90A - bigger compressor than the TK1000 but using the supposedly less efficient R134A

 

[Brad Wilkins]

How long is your tubing from the chiller to the tank?

I’ve heard of long tubing to cause an ever-ending runtime on chillers before, requiring insulation of the tubing, and usually a beefier chiller to work properly.

Also a chiller that doesn’t have enough room to sufficiently dissipate the heat from its area may hurt the efficiency as well, and make it work harder or even cause the water to heat back up rapidly if it’s in an enclosed cabinet for example.

If that’s not the case, I would still try to play with the water flow, this parameter alone can change a lot on how the chiller performs.

At least from what I remember from the time when I actually followed instructions, the water flow almost never exactly matched the official recommendations, and I don’t see how it ever could - different volumes would require different flow rates.
The adjustment will likely lay within 30-40 percent of the recommended flow rate, so it’s not far off but definitely enough to make a significant change in performance.
Hope you’ll find the culprit, because there’s definitely something wrong here.

About 2.5m all up from pump to filter to chiller.

 

[Brad Wilkins]

Wright! Just spoke to the shop and they said with me having two 40w UV sterilises running on my tank 24/7 the heat that would contribute is significant and equivalent to running two heaters especially at a room temp of 30 °c. I wish i new this before i brought a tk1000. Should have gone for a TK 2000 insted.

 

[DanyL]

Two 40W UVCs are still 80W worth of heat - it shouldn’t nudge the chiller.

Now if you have tons of high wattage equipment like Wavemakers, power heads, lighting - sure, it is possible to accumulate enough heat for the chiller to struggle, given the already high room temps it has to deal with, but 80W as it is are not a lot, and they could be a tipping point just as much as any other 80W worth of equipment you have installed.

You can do a quick and simple test - shut off the UVC and see if it makes any difference.
It likely will, but I don’t believe it would be significant.

Edit: Have you tried to tweak the flow rate already? If not, like I mentioned beforehand - this should be the first thing to do. You might be looking all over the place, just to find out that ramping it slightly more or less would fix the issue. It usually is.

 

[2una]

Also agree on try to up the flow some more & the 2 UV's would have some impact but the chiller should still be able to get on top of it.
What about schedule the UV's for just running night hours & see.

 

[2una]

Off topic but are you 2 as non US members also getting beaten up checking the Cloudfare security box way too much?
I'm South African IP & its got bad enough I voiced about it.
If your getting similar maybe let them know as well
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/f...ecurity-checkbox-sucks.1098215/#post-13325395

 

[DanyL]

Off topic but are you 2 as non US members also getting beaten up checking the Cloudfare security box way too much?
I'm South African IP & its got bad enough I voiced about it.
If your getting similar maybe let them know as well
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/f...ecurity-checkbox-sucks.1098215/#post-13325395

I replied to the thread.
Yes, it is a known issue for quite awhile now.

 

[Brad Wilkins]

Two 40W UVCs are still 80W worth of heat - it shouldn’t nudge the chiller.

Now if you have tons of high wattage equipment like Wavemakers, power heads, lighting - sure, it is possible to accumulate enough heat for the chiller to struggle, given the already high room temps it has to deal with, but 80W as it is are not a lot, and they could be a tipping point just as much as any other 80W worth of equipment you have installed.

You can do a quick and simple test - shut off the UVC and see if it makes any difference.
It likely will, but I don’t believe it would be significant.

Edit: Have you tried to tweak the flow rate already? If not, like I mentioned beforehand - this should be the first thing to do. You might be looking all over the place, just to find out that ramping it slightly more or less would fix the issue. It usually is.

Yes! I have a lot of electrical's putting heat into the system! I think this is the real issue. Cheers

 

[2una]

Yes! I have a lot of electrical's putting heat into the system! I think this is the real issue. Cheers

That chiller should run better than it is otherwise they're just amazingly over stating their model suitability.
I'm also geared for sps & have a mountain of pumps in the tank.
In display - 2 x Gyre, 2 x Jebao OW 50, 4 x Jebao SLW 20's.
In the sump - VarioS-4 in my skimmer,Sicce syncra 1 running zeolite and a Jebao DCP 10000 return.
Lighting - 4 x xr30 G4's.

Living in a warm area & no aircon in the room I don't try & fight for 26-27c & are happy enough saving some power with 27-28c - Have even had Lennardi wrasse in the tank that was happy at that temp range.

On the other hand perhaps that smaller compressor in the 1000 @ 1/4 HP is just not enough even with the more efficient gas its running.

 

[Anonymous'Reefer90]

Aquí en Israel tenemos temperaturas similares, claro. En un día caluroso (unos 38 °C) puede tardar más en enfriarse que con temperaturas más bajas, pero aun así solo tarda unos 30 minutos. Ni de cerca 3 horas.
Y en días normales de verano (entre 30 y 34 °C), la duración media es de entre 15 y 20 minutos.

La duración de la batería del Hailea es similar, solo un poco más larga que la del Teco (una diferencia de entre 5 y 10 minutos, aproximadamente).

Así que definitivamente hay algo mal con tu refrigerador, no hay duda de eso.

¿Has intentado ponerte en contacto con tu representante local o te has puesto en contacto directamente con Teco (la propia empresa en Italia)?

Yo no compré el mío a nuestro representante local, pero al menos, por lo que he visto, parecen ser eficientes y tener repuestos disponibles localmente.

Hello, and excuse the question a year later, but how do you have your chiller installed to give you that efficiency?