Nitro-Mare
- Thread starter M-Pod
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Thanks guys, Okay so I’ll get some live rock will an Amazon search of live rock suffice and order some?
And i really need to change water twice weekly , along with the filters?
Yeah the tip of the fake coral and rock has brown “bacteria” growing on it I thought that was a good thing
And my test strips are no good? It says for salt and fresh water?
And i really need to change water twice weekly , along with the filters?
Yeah the tip of the fake coral and rock has brown “bacteria” growing on it I thought that was a good thing
And my test strips are no good? It says for salt and fresh water?
W1ngz
Failed Padawan
Toss the ph buffer. You never want to directly play with the ph on saltwater.
As to twice weekly water changes, you won't have to do that long term, but your tank is likely headed for an ammonia spike with so little rock and none cycled. Water changes and that bottle of quick start are an emergency lifeline to protect the fish as you try and get things re-started in the right direction.
Test strips function. But that's not the question. You'll want more precise and specific numbers for each parameter.
Right now you should be testing ammonia daily.
As to twice weekly water changes, you won't have to do that long term, but your tank is likely headed for an ammonia spike with so little rock and none cycled. Water changes and that bottle of quick start are an emergency lifeline to protect the fish as you try and get things re-started in the right direction.
Test strips function. But that's not the question. You'll want more precise and specific numbers for each parameter.
Right now you should be testing ammonia daily.
W1ngz
Failed Padawan
Mostly you can only get eco friendly rock these days. All the places that used to ship ocean sourced live rock have banned the export.
Dry Marco rock or reef saver dry rock are popular choices.
A better choice would be of you have a friend who has a piece or two of ready to go rock that's already been in a tank for a few months.
Dry Marco rock or reef saver dry rock are popular choices.
A better choice would be of you have a friend who has a piece or two of ready to go rock that's already been in a tank for a few months.
Magellan
2500 Club Member
Do you have any pet stores / LFS near you?
Even a basic API test kit would be better than the strips. LFS would probably have some rock cycled and ready to go.
long term, you will want to invest in some better tests, (I use Salifert)
Even a basic API test kit would be better than the strips. LFS would probably have some rock cycled and ready to go.
long term, you will want to invest in some better tests, (I use Salifert)
W1ngz
Failed Padawan
You'll probably pay 8-9$ per lb, maybe more for wet, cycled ready to use rock. it depends on the store.
Now that I'm home and can have a proper look at the bottles you have:
1. Seachem Reef Complete - for calcium. Keep it, but you have no need to worry about calcium right now.
2. API marine quick start - Yes. Ammonia detoxyfier, which is what you definitely need especially in the absence of an ammonia test kit. Also claims to be a bacteria additive, though I've never heard of anyone using it. Not sure if it messes with ammonia tests. The API ammonia test it most likely to be compatible, but it is known to give false positives at low levels. API has a terrible reputation for test accuracy, but is better than strips.
3. Fritz complete - does the same thing as the API stuff. May give a false positive or negative ammonia reading depending on the type of test.
4. Fluval cycle is a bacteria additive, which is what you need. I've never used it.
5. pH increase - toss it, like I mentioned above, you never want to use magical pH manupilation products, they mess with the stability of the water chemistry.
Now that I'm home and can have a proper look at the bottles you have:
1. Seachem Reef Complete - for calcium. Keep it, but you have no need to worry about calcium right now.
2. API marine quick start - Yes. Ammonia detoxyfier, which is what you definitely need especially in the absence of an ammonia test kit. Also claims to be a bacteria additive, though I've never heard of anyone using it. Not sure if it messes with ammonia tests. The API ammonia test it most likely to be compatible, but it is known to give false positives at low levels. API has a terrible reputation for test accuracy, but is better than strips.
3. Fritz complete - does the same thing as the API stuff. May give a false positive or negative ammonia reading depending on the type of test.
4. Fluval cycle is a bacteria additive, which is what you need. I've never used it.
5. pH increase - toss it, like I mentioned above, you never want to use magical pH manupilation products, they mess with the stability of the water chemistry.
W1ngz
Failed Padawan
Most of your fish look to be juvenile, at least the cardinal and clowns do. Less fish = less ammonia, but I'm not sure it'll make a big impact at this point. Your best bet would be to go light on the feeding until you get a better idea of the ammonia levels and get that live rock. Plan for daily water changes as big as you can manage tomorrow and friday.
Hi guys I’m back got the live rock it’s ben doing great my nitrogen is nothing now 
However my pH at least on my test strips seem to be on the low side any suggestions? Fish and invertebrates are doing fine however
However my pH at least on my test strips seem to be on the low side any suggestions? Fish and invertebrates are doing fine however
W1ngz
Failed Padawan
2 suggestions:
1. Don't use test strips.
2. Don't stress about pH. Let it do what it does and become an expert at keeping all your other parameters in line first.
That might sound a little like a condescending non-answer but it's more about you than your tank right now. Anything 7.8 or better is just fine. In the long term, choosing what you want to fight with will help you, and your tank, and right now you don't want to be fighting with your pH.
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