No visible signs of spots

[Richards Aquarium]

So my clowns scratched from day one hippo is now scratching and so is gobie. I've treated with prazipro because the clowns where focusing on scratching gill area. I see no spots what so ever on any fish in tank. All are eating good very active. They all look great. I have had the clowns for a month and the gobie for a week and the hippo for 4 days. No qt tank yet working on it. Any suggestions.

 

[ISpeakForTheSeas]

I'd suggest reading through the link below (particularly the "Aquarium Parameters," "Water quality," and "In-depth Information" sections) to figure out what info you can share here with the #fishmedic to get the best diagnosis and treatment advice possible:

Some Helpful Hints When Posting or Responding to Threads in the Fish Disease Treatment and Diagnosis Section

Aquarium Fish Disease Problem Solving Determining the best course of action for a problem with your aquarium can be a difficult task. Even advanced aquarists will often need to seek the help of others for complicated or unique issues. Our intent here on Reef 2 Reef is to offer expert advice...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Richards Aquarium]

Thank you for your advise

 

[Jay Hemdal]

So my clowns scratched from day one hippo is now scratching and so is gobie. I've treated with prazipro because the clowns where focusing on scratching gill area. I see no spots what so ever on any fish in tank. All are eating good very active. They all look great. I have had the clowns for a month and the gobie for a week and the hippo for 4 days. No qt tank yet working on it. Any suggestions.

Did you dose the prazipro twice, 8 days apart?

Jay

 

[Richards Aquarium]

On first dose 3 days in so far. The clowns are not scratching off the surface anymore. But the tang and gobie are I will dose again in 5 days

 

[Richards Aquarium]

Hey Jay i belive hippo tang has ick so there is so much info on ick. I believe it's ick cause white very tiny looking cotton ball appearance is spread apart and not close together camera on phone won't pick up spots but I can see them with my eyes. I don't know how to work camera on phone to pick up a good picture. I will play with it and see if I can get a picture.
In the mean time I have no qt I don't know what to do he is eating like a pig. Flakes ( professional formula xtreame Aquatic foods marine krill flake ) and brine shrimp. He is Very active. I have 2 clows , one female lyrtail anthias, one fire fish, and one diamond watchman gobie. And the hippo tang. I've treated with prazipro because I belive the clowns had flukes I'm 4 days in with that. Water quality is good. My uv is off. What do I do.

 

[Richards Aquarium]

Does this help ?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Does this help ?

Sorry - the pictures aren't clear enough to diagnose ich or not. Ich will look like salt grained sized white spots that tend to come and change location. Hepatus tangs also get something called mucus plugs that are larger and stay in the same location longer. If you don't have a treatment tank available, you will have to do something called "ich management". it doesn;'t always work though:


Starting Ich Management during an active infection only works if the number of trophonts on the fish is below a certain number. Above that number and the trophonts themselves become stressors and the parasite gains a foothold, despite your attempts to manage it. So what is that number? It depends on too many variables - but I start to expect Ich Management to fail if the number of spots on any one fish is above 30 or so.

Here is my protocol for ich management. Please understand that I am NOT presenting this as an optimum method for controlling ich, just putting it out there for people who want to try it. Also, do not pick and choose which items you want to follow - you need to go with all guns blazing and use them all.

“Ich Management” Because many aquarists mix fish and invertebrates, they are ill-prepared to then treat for marine ich, as the two best treatments, amine-based copper or hyposalinity, cannot be used with invertebrates. A popular technique has then arisen, “ich management”. It is popular not because it works well, but because it is an easier alternative. Be forewarned, it often fails if applied during moderate infections. The reason that it exists as a technique at all is because people find themselves in situations like this and are desperate to try anything.

The basic idea is to reduce the infective propagules (tomites) of the ich parasite to the point where the fish's acquired immunity can fight the infection off. This is done through a series of techniques for stress reduction and tomite limiting. Unfortunately, the ich tomites themselves cause stress to the fish, so if the fish have more than 30 or so trophonts on them, the method often fails.

1) Install a powerful UV sterilizer on the aquarium.
2) Ensure that the fish's diet and water quality are the best you can make them.
3) Keep the water temperature close to 78 degrees F.
4) Siphon off the tank floor nightly to remove as many tomonts as possible.
5) Employ strong filtration to trap as many tomites as possible.
6) Try a proprietary "reef safe" marine ich medication. These rarely cure ich infections on their own, but some may have benefit when combined with other management methods. Avoid the herbal remedies, focus on those that contain peroxide salts. There is, however, some evidence that using peroxides with UV does not work, as the UV can break down the peroxides.

Jay