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Tanks can run at higher phos with no problem. .4 is a bit higher but .2 with softies and lps shouldn't be a problem.
Im doing a retest right now to check but I’m thinking it’s not wrong as the color of the vial was darker then normalIt probably is. Did you retest? Have you tried the standards to make sure it's correct?
About a year and started with dry rock I have about 20 fish in a 65 gallonSure they can.
How old is your tank?
How many fish?
Other parameters?
Did you start with live rock or dry rock?
Could be the issue....but if you started with dry rock it could be releasing phos.Im doing a retest right now to check but I’m thinking it’s not wrong as the color of the vial was darker then normal
Ah ok the rock is most likely releasing if the test comes back as high.About a year and started with dry rock I have about 20 fish in a 65 gallon
I highly recommend the standards. They are cheap and you get a couple of spare cuvettes. PO4 will bind to the rocks and sand and then it releases when you remove it via water changes. You need to use something to lower it like ChemiPure elite or GFO.Im doing a retest right now to check but I’m thinking it’s not wrong as the color of the vial was darker then normal
I'm not a fan of Hanna's standards because they're generally in the wrong range for most reefers (5dkh? why?) - but the ULR Phosphorus/Phosphate one is .4ppm, so perfect here.I highly recommend the standards. They are cheap and you get a couple of spare cuvettes. PO4 will bind to the rocks and sand and then it releases when you remove it via water changes. You need to use something to lower it like ChemiPure elite or GFO.
The red lights are starting to go off I’m going to crank my fuge and do some water changes with phosphateI'm not a fan of Hanna's standards because they're generally in the wrong range for most reefers (5dkh? why?) - but the ULR Phosphorus/Phosphate one is .4ppm, so perfect here.
This is a weird one here - generally this sort of Phosphate range is fine in tanks with a ton of corals - but I'd think with these numbers and basically no coraline, and low coral coverage, and a year in, he'd have an algae mess.
I'm not a fan of Hanna's standards because they're generally in the wrong range for most reefers (5dkh? why?) - but the ULR Phosphorus/Phosphate one is .4ppm, so perfect here.
This is a weird one here - generally this sort of Phosphate range is fine in tanks with a ton of corals - but I'd think with these numbers and basically no coraline, and low coral coverage, and a year in, he'd have an algae mess.
The numbers on the Hanna standard don't mater. If the checker is out of range, regardless of the number, it needs to be fixed. If it reads it correct at that level, then it should be correct at the usual level. He has tons of hard green algae, which will go away after he gets the nutrients in check. I had the same thing. I will never dose coralline in a bottle because of it.I'm not a fan of Hanna's standards because they're generally in the wrong range for most reefers (5dkh? why?) - but the ULR Phosphorus/Phosphate one is .4ppm, so perfect here.
This is a weird one here - generally this sort of Phosphate range is fine in tanks with a ton of corals - but I'd think with these numbers and basically no coraline, and low coral coverage, and a year in, he'd have an algae mess.
I’m having actually tons of corlaine spots growing now the only thing that gets rid of that hard alage film is my urchinsThe numbers on the Hanna standard don't mater. If the checker is out of range, regardless of the number, it needs to be fixed. If it reads it correct at that level, then it should be correct at the usual level. He has tons of hard green algae, which will go away after he gets the nutrients in check. I had the same thing. I will never dose coralline in a bottle because of it.