No way my phosphate is this high

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Perthegallon

Perthegallon

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Second test I also zeroed it with ro water before I guess I have to do some water changes

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Ippyroy

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I’m having actually tons of corlaine spots growing now the only thing that gets rid of that hard alage film is my urchins

Green algae*

My urchins also avoid the purple corlaine which is awesome
I wish I had my urchin earlier. It felt like forever for that stuff to go away. At least I never had GHA.
 

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Water changes don't really help. The PO4 will release from the rocks and sand and stay at that level. ChemiPure Elite is cheap and I think it's called Phosguard will also work. Chemipure elite comes in a small bag and you just toss it into the sump.
 
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Susan Edwards

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When I started my tank reboot, po4 was 1.43 and its been up and down. Even had some at 7.5 but not sure if I was just not reading correctly! Now at .45 with chemi elite and phosguard. I don't totally rinse my frozen food as I put 6-8 cubes in a condiment squeeze bottle to feed for a couple days. But I started adding ro water, let it thaw, then dump out a bunch of water and refill, so I get rid of some of the po4 in the food. Now that I have corals, I want them to have some of that "juice"
 

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92Miata

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The numbers on the Hanna standard don't mater. If the checker is out of range, regardless of the number, it needs to be fixed. If it reads it correct at that level, then it should be correct at the usual level. He has tons of hard green algae, which will go away after he gets the nutrients in check. I had the same thing. I will never dose coralline in a bottle because of it.
The problem is that the closer the calibration point is to the desired measurement, the more likely it is to be accurate at the desired measurement. The further away you calibrate, the less likely it is to be accurate (this is why calibrating a refractometer at 1.026 is way better than using RODI).

Meters that are accurate in one part of their range aren't necessarily accurate in all parts.
 

flampton

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Three common methods, ferric oxide or aluminum oxide are 'sponges' and will slowly bring levels down. Still pay attention though. And lanthanum chloride will immediately precipitate out PO4, so can lower a lot quicker. A lot of people don't want this ppt so they dose into fine socks.

Organic carbon dosing is another option if you understand it's relationship to nitrogen and phosphate in the tank. Not recommended if you're unfamiliar with what I just said, haha!
 

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When was the last time you check po4?

just wondering how long it might of taken to get to that lvl.
 

flampton

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A fuge is carbon dosing as well. The algae brings carbon into your system and utilizes some of the nitrogen and phosphate in the system to grow. Fuges will tend to lower nitrogen (nitrates) before phosphates just as traditional carbon dosing. Thus you might need a little extra help because of the fish load.
 

MERKEY

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I do have a fuge
With the amount of fish and if you have corals and are feeding those a small fuge doesn't do much on phos +1 to @flampton

Our tanks evolve and grow and so do our exporting habits.

You aren't overly high so don't strip it all too fast.

Just for comparison our phos was unreadable on Hannah yes above 1 and that was in a 1 year old system started with 90% dry rock. Phos eventually leaks from the rocks and sand regardless of the size of our fuge/skimmer/reactors. We have to adjust for those things as our tanks evolve and change.

Yes eventually our tanks become stable enough to self regulate with little interjection from us. But until they get there we have adjustment like you are running into.
 
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Perthegallon

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With the amount of fish and if you have corals and are feeding those a small fuge doesn't do much on phos +1 to @flampton

Our tanks evolve and grow and so do our exporting habits.

You aren't overly high so don't strip it all too fast.

Just for comparison our phos was unreadable on Hannah yes above 1 and that was in a 1 year old system started with 90% dry rock. Phos eventually leaks from the rocks and sand regardless of the size of our fuge/skimmer/reactors. We have to adjust for those things as our tanks evolve and change.

Yes eventually our tanks become stable enough to self regulate with little interjection from us. But until they get there we have adjustment like you are running into.
I may have been over feeding a lot lately as well since I got the new fish I wanted to keep aggression down so I kept dumping going to slow down now
 

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Hey it could be worse I’ve maxed my Hanna out with 0.99 before lol
 

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Tank looks great, just leave it alone as long as the phosphate trends down or stays level. mine was at 2.50 PPM a few weeks ago because I dos phosphate and nitrate in my top off and had a leak, so all the top off dumped into the tank in a few hours! been a month and it’s now down to .72 PPM. Just have to clean the glass often.
 

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