NO3 and PO4 and it's relationship to lighting

road_runner · Jul 10, 2019

Lasse said:
Note - as I remember

Sincerely Lasse

Still thank you for sharing.
I do have a question if you be too kind:
What would you say the best sources for NH3/NH4 in home aquaria?

jda · Jul 10, 2019

madweazl said:
Our tank is roughly 60/40 (T5/Kessil) in regard to PAR levels and I still keep the levels as close as I can to NSW. I just don't think this relationship exists and believe it has more to do with people screwing with their lights (i.e. trying to run something they want to work vice something that resembles what the sun casts upon a reef). The biggest draw back to LED is our ability to manipulate it, CONSTANTLY!

I think that this evidence that supports what I am saying. You use mercury-based source for the heavy lifting and are supplementing with LED. My unsubstantiated theory is that these type of systems do better with NSW level N and P.

Lasse · Jul 10, 2019

There is some other things than just light that differ MH from LED. MH/T5 tanks normally run at higher temperature than LED. @Sallstrom have run both only MH and only LED with different nutrients levels - he maybe can give an input here.

Sincerely Lasse

MnFish1 · Jul 10, 2019

pigmo said:
we think older established tanks function differently than newer ones.

Curious - Why do we think this? I mean - of course there are some differences between a tank a day old and a tank 10 years old - or 1 month vs 5 years - or whatever - I'm just curious - by functioning differently - do you mean 'more successful' or that they are 'just different'? Here is a question - if you took a bare bottom tank - did a 100% water change - and had no real filtration (only a skimmer, etc - no active filtration) - would that be a 'new tank' or an 'old tank'? What would be the difference between taking a new tank - and adding a bunch of live rock and fish from an established tank into a 'new tank' with 'new water'?

road_runner · Jul 10, 2019

Lasse said:
There is some other things than just light that differ MH from LED. MH/T5 tanks normally run at higher temperature than LED. @Sallstrom have run both only MH and only LED with different nutrients levels - he maybe can give an input here.

Sincerely Lasse

Couldn't agree more. I have grown good acros under t5 only, under led only and under combo.
Never used MH but have seen incredible tanks with MH...

Dana Riddle · Jul 10, 2019

MnFish1 said:
Does that mean that - If nutrients in a tank are 'lower than they should be'- and the Alk and Lighting are 'higher than they should be for that level of nutrients - that this could cause problems? That was my point initially

Two separate issues I think. Algal growths can be limited by a single nutrient deficiency. Domestic wastewater plants are often required to remove phosphorus to limit algae growths in the receiving body of water, while the nitrogen concentrations aren't regulated by the discharge permit. Now, if nutrients are readily available and the inorganic carbon required for photosynthesis (alkalinity) is high, the rate of photosynthesis can be increased. This is the cause of Acropora 'tip burn', IMHO. Anecdotally, I think nutrient imbalances are responsible for some of the nuisances seen in our reef aquaria.

Sallstrom · Jul 10, 2019

Lasse said:
There is some other things than just light that differ MH from LED. MH/T5 tanks normally run at higher temperature than LED. @Sallstrom have run both only MH and only LED with different nutrients levels - he maybe can give an input here.

Sincerely Lasse

I haven't seen any difference, to be honest. But I'm one of those who almost never changes the programs or intensity for the LEDs. Turn the LEDs up to 200-400 PAR and then leave it

I haven't had the time to read through the whole thread yet. I'll try to catch up, and maybe I could contribute more later.

Sallstrom · Jul 10, 2019

I've seen fading/unhappy Acropora in low nutrient +high PAR tanks with both LEDs and MHs. I've also seen happy Acropora at PAR at 500 with LEDs at NSW nutrient levels.

If I was to give any advice to the first post, that would be not to listen too much to any of us answering in this thread and to try out yourself and see what works for your tank. I believe it can vary a lot from tank to tank how corals react to light intensity and nutrients. It's not that easy to predict IMO.

So try (not 10 things at once) something and then observe. Taking notes is great

And checking your PAR is great too. Really hard to know the intensity just by using your eyes IMO.

Dana Riddle · Jul 10, 2019

Sallstrom said:
I've seen fading/unhappy Acropora in low nutrient +high PAR tanks with both LEDs and MHs. I've also seen happy Acropora at PAR at 500 with LEDs at NSW nutrient levels.

If I was to give any advice to the first post, that would be not to listen too much to any of us answering in this thread and to try out yourself and see what works for your tank. I believe it can vary a lot from tank to tank how corals react to light intensity and nutrients. It's not that easy to predict IMO.

So try (not 10 things at once) something and then observe. Taking notes is great And checking your PAR is great too. Really hard to know the intensity just by using your eyes IMO.