Nuclear Biocube 32 Build

tiggs

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I'm a big fan of Tunze ATOs. The regular 3155 is amazing, so I'd highly recommend going that route since it has dual sensors (float switch and optical eye for redundancy). I'm currently running a 14G Biocube, so that model is a bit harder to fit on the smaller tank, so I went with the Tunze 3152. It only has a single sensor, but Tunze implemented a safeguard where it'll automatically shut off if it's running for more than X seconds continuously. Additionally, I have other safeguards via my controller that will cut it off, if something funky ever happens.

I'm personally A LOT more critical of Tunze products than probably 99% of R2R members, but their ATOs are really the best.
 

Jeff_Toronto

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I'm a big fan of Tunze ATOs. The regular 3155 is amazing, so I'd highly recommend going that route since it has dual sensors (float switch and optical eye for redundancy). I'm currently running a 14G Biocube, so that model is a bit harder to fit on the smaller tank, so I went with the Tunze 3152. It only has a single sensor, but Tunze implemented a safeguard where it'll automatically shut off if it's running for more than X seconds continuously. Additionally, I have other safeguards via my controller that will cut it off, if something funky ever happens.

I'm personally A LOT more critical of Tunze products than probably 99% of R2R members, but their ATOs are really the best.
I'm using the tunze 3155 on my biocube and it works well but have one complaint. Every power cycle it dumps a cup of water into tank. Which i hate. I have the tunze smaller nano version on a qt tank and my other smaller tank I have a smartato and while i like the tunze i prefer the aqua smart ato

Can't go wrong with either
 

tiggs

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I'm using the tunze 3155 on my biocube and it works well but have one complaint. Every power cycle it dumps a cup of water into tank. Which i hate. I have the tunze smaller nano version on a qt tank and my other smaller tank I have a smartato and while i like the tunze i prefer the aqua smart ato

Can't go wrong with either

That's a great point, actually. That's the one benefit the 3152 does have over the 3155. The self-test mode the larger model does after every power cycle would butcher my SG in a 14G tank
 

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That's a great point, actually. That's the one benefit the 3152 does have over the 3155. The self-test mode the larger model does after every power cycle would butcher my SG in a 14G tank
Yeah the 3152 i just unplug in water changes then plug in after and non-issue. Have the 3155 hooked up to Alex and hate that extra cup it dumps in. Probably not enough to throw off salinity but I got into habit of letting it pour into a cup when I power on
 

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I also run an apex jr controller and added nest cam so I can check up on tank when away. Longest I've been away so far is 8 days but liked the security of being able to monitor and visually check
 

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F1FF7D88-828B-43D0-BA75-E1210F0DD813.jpeg
A very small amount of water comes around at the right side of this photo below. You should be able to see it, but most is directed into the basket!
C47CB243-BE49-4147-A6C6-4EF1D2A9DA9B.jpeg
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Thanks! I think I will start shopping for one.
 
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@tiggs , @Jeff_Toronto
Thanks for all the info on the ATO guys! I’ve been trying to research to see what I want. The 3155 and 3152 were top of my list. Just couldn’t decide. But now I’m gonna narrow it down to the 3152 and aqua smart. Really appreciate it!
 

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The extra float as a safety on the 3155 is nice to have and the smart ato only has optical whichb is fine but the smart part is it keeps track of how much water to puts in over time and then adjusts the emergency shutoff from that. Also easier to setup and fits nicely in smaller tank. I have and love both though
 

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I used the Smart ATO micro on my Biocube.
I put a 5 gal tank in the bottom of the stand and ran Kalk in the top off water when Alk use became an issue.
I really liked the simplicity and quiet operation of the Smart ATO.
 

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I notice you plan on putting GSP on that front island rock.
That's a good plan to keep it isolated and I did the same when I first set up my Biocube 29.

But after I sold my tank to my friend's son he put the GSP on the back wall and it looks great.
Just another option for keeping it isolated and adds a lot of movement effect to the tank.
Here's a current pic of his tank now.

 
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I notice you plan on putting GSP on that front island rock.
That's a good plan to keep it isolated and I did the same when I first set up my Biocube 29.

But after I sold my tank to my friend's son he put the GSP on the back wall and it looks great.
Just another option for keeping it isolated and adds a lot of movement effect to the tank.
Here's a current pic of his tank now.


Wow! That’s a nice tank! I thought about GSP on the back wall, but not at this point. Maybe later.

On a side note. I’ve been planning out what corals I may want. Most the ones I like are bottom rock placement or even in the sand. I’ve seen the Kenya tree Coral gets placed high. Also seen mixed reviews that if left unchecked you’ll have a forest. Is there any coral recommendations you could make for high rock placement with stock L.E.D. lighting?
 

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Coralife states the PAR at 12" below water line is:
  • PAR* 53
  • Peak PAR* 81
What is the depth below the water line on top of your rocks?
If you can measure the PAR yourself then that should give you some guidance on coral types and placement within the tank.

The picture of the tank I posted has the lid removed and an AI Prime HD mounted, so a lot more PAR.
 
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Coralife states the PAR at 12" below water line is:
  • PAR* 53
  • Peak PAR* 81
What is the depth below the water line on top of your rocks?

Rock is on a slant so it’s 4.5-6 inches from top of water
 
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Just an update on my water parameters. Today is day 8 of the cycle and day 5 of 7 using Seachem Stability.

Ammonia is 0
Nitrite is 2ppm
Nitrate 40ppm
Salinity is 1.022 (now topping off with salt water to raise that up some)

To cycle, I had a cocktail shrimp in the tank for 3 days. Ammonia went to 2ppm. Started using Seachem Stability (every day for 7 days) and ghost feeding every other day.
 

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I’m starting a Biocube 32 Build. First Aquarium. First Reef Tank. I used 25-30lbs base Rock and 25lbs Arag-Alive Reef Grade sand. Tank Started 6/7/2018. I plan to Cycle with a raw shrimp.
E7A412B4-52AA-450C-A1BF-3243617800D0.jpeg
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I have the same tank! Are you using a protein skimmer? I bought the Tunze 9004, but it doesn't fit in very well (only goes in sideways, and water doesn't reach where it should be), so I guess I'll have to consider but a HOB one, and then will have to buy lights since I will have to take off my lid. I had to put it in the middle slot, but then had to take out the filter, so not sure if that's such a good idea anyways...
I was leaving my lights on all the time (default led light lid), and have a good amount of algae.
My ammonia is .1, nitrite at .3, and salinity at 1.024. My ph is 7.79. I have not added any livestock yet. Are you using the filter media (black on one side, white on the other) that it came with? I've thought about adding the filter floss media. I had carbon in there as well, but heard from BRS that it's not a good idea. I haven't done ghost feeding either. I also need to get an ATO!
And what does GSP and PAR stand for? :)

Also, any feedback, suggestions or anything you found beneficial for your tank, I'd appreciate hearing! I've considered trying to cycle it faster... But right now just taking my time with letting it do it on its own.

Best of luck, and keep us posted!!! ^_^

upload1.jpg

20180616_070559.jpg
 
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I don’t run a protein skimmer and dont plan to. Weekly water changes in this system will be fine.

I’m not using the stock filter pad or media tray. I bought the media rack from InTank for the Biocube 32. (This media rack is highly recommended by most.) it has 3 levels. Level 1 I use this floss I cut to size from amazon:
E12F29D1-9C4F-4C3B-9C9A-2438478A0DCB.png

2nd level I’ll run Purigen and in 3rd level I’ll use chemipure elite. Also I believe with slight modification that skimmer would sit next to the InTank media basket.

For your lights. They should be completely off during the night. The 32 has a built in timer to make it easy. Channel 3 lights should run the longest, channel 2 less and then channel 1 even less. I run channel 1 for 10 hours (10am-8pm) channel 2 8am 830pm. And channel 3 6am-9pm. The lights ramp up and down. So my lighted hours on this time frame is 6am-10pm. Then completely dark from 10pm- 6am.

I don’t have an ATO yet but plan on running the Tunze 3155.

GSP stand for Green Star Polyps. It’s a coral that grows and spreads like weeds. It really need to be on an island rock, cause it’ll take over whatever it’s on. I like the look and movement of it so I intentionally put in an island for it when I did my aquascaping.

I’m not sure what PAR stands for, but it’s the measurement of intensity that your lights can produce. Certain corals need higher or lower intensity. Which can be adjusted for by being nearer or farther away from your lights, but if a coral needs more intensity than the light can even produce right next to it, then you won’t be able to grow that coral.

Suggestions: Get the InTank Media basket for the 32. Down by the return pump is a black sponge, pull it out and throw it away. It’ll become a nitrate factory. If your still cycling research and decide if you wanna buy bottled bacteria. (I’m using Seachem Stability) but there’s others you could choose as well. Watch lots of YouTube videos. Go slow.

Have you started a build thread to track and show progress? I find it very helpful and there’s lots of VERY knowledgeable people on here who can look over it and help you make beneficial tweaks. I highly recommended you start a build thread and update it often with pics and info. At a minimum it’ll be your reef tank diary. Something to look back on.
 

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I do have the 3 level media basket. It takes up the whole of area 2, correct?
Have you been doing water changes?
I will get rid of that sponge. Are you using filter socks? Or is that not necessary with the filter floss? When you say level 1, you are starting from the top, correct?
Is Seachem Stability used only for cycling a tank?
 

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