Nutrition to help cycling

[mpjmeyer]

My tank is currently cycling, has been for 1 week now. My ammonia and nitrite readings are very high at this moment which is normal. A co-worker of mine suggested going to the grocery store and asking the seafood department for 2 raw shrimp and put them in the tank. Anybody ever heard of this? I'm very patient for my tank to cycle but if it would help bacteria, then maybe I should try it. Thoughts??

 

[KJ]

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-supreme-guide-to-setting-up-a-saltwater-reef-aquarium.138750/

 

[mpjmeyer]

My Ammonia already is at 78ppm, should I be fine without adding anything? Does the shrimp method only work when you are wanting to raise ammonia?

 

[Sagecritter4life]

Newbie to salt side myself but if truly 78ppm seems way to high? I wouldn't add anything more until ammonia levels drop and nitrite goes up.

Using Dr Tim's method it's recommended not to exceed 5ppm ammonia while cycling because might actually stall out cycle and they recommend doing water changes to keep under that

But again newbie myself....I used bio spira and shrimp and never seen ammonia over 3ppm

Hopefully somebody more experienced will jump in lol

 

[Sagecritter4life]

Using red sea test kits

 

[Sagecritter4life]

Actually Dr Tim's recommends not letting nitrite OR ammonia get over 5ppm for same stall out reason so.....I might add proper per gallon amount bio spira or Dr Tim's to kick start bacteria or change water to get level down then do it ;-) but being newbie advice is worth what you paid...chuckle

 

[mpjmeyer]

I started with 65lbs. of BRS Fiji dry live rock and Carbsea live sand. Haven't added anything but water so hopefully my ammonia lowers. My LFS said my ammonia is normal at this stage and to just let it lower over time so IDK. If 5ppm ammonia is normal, then I'm WWWWAAAAYYYYY too high

 

[mpjmeyer]

I also use red sea test kits

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

dont sweat it.
The presence of ammonia is the indicator of organics rotting. so you don't need the shrimp. The ammoina not dropping by next week would be an indicator you may want to add a good bacteria to boost the population.
the very high ammonia means you likely have a lot of organics rotting. But again. dont sweat it. It just means youll have a higher bactrial population as, well, you have more food for it than most.

DO you already have a bottled bacteria?
ANd if it starts to smell and the Mrs gets grumpy(I would too) , use the bottle Bac, and run some carbon.

 

[mpjmeyer]

I don't have any bottled bacteria yet. I'm going to take a water sample to my LFS again next Wednesday to see if ammonia has dropped at all.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-supreme-guide-to-setting-up-a-saltwater-reef-aquarium.138750/

Hey KJ, where's that cool cycle graph you post...

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I don't have any bottled bacteria yet. I'm going to take a water sample to my LFS again next Wednesday to see if ammonia has dropped at all.

Youll know it has when it smells less. I highly recommend grabbing at least an ATI ammonia kit. may as well get the hang of testing yourself now.IMO.

 

[Sagecritter4life]

I'd bet your getting lots of organic matter breaking down from the rock if went straight in tank with it so that's what's sending readings through the roof since you didn't use shrimp or other ammonia source.

If you havnt added anything I sure don't think adding bacteria in a bottle ;-) would hurt....curious what your NO3 (nitrate) is at so far

My freshwater tanks were all started with fritzyme bacteria very succesfully and they make a saltwater version but opted this time for bio spira initially and 10 days later boosted with bottle Dr Tim's with no ill affects and tank is cycled been up 25 days.

Now I'm using ghost feeding every couple days or Dr Tim's ammonium chloride to verify can process 2ppm in 24 hours while fallow and getting quarantine tanks up and going lol

 

[Sagecritter4life]

Sorry salty didn't see your post lol kinda repeated you...chuckle

 

[mpjmeyer]

I have the Red Sea test kit which allows me to test ammonia, but taking it to my LFS gives me an excuse to go there and look at my potential future family members . I read the thread KJ posted and that's really good stuff. However, once I reach the final stage and I get hair algae, do I need to take care of that or do I just get a clean up crew to clean it all up?

 

[Sagecritter4life]

Officially out of advice mpj lol havnt started the uglies (algae phases) myself yet and still lights out while fallow...so gonna bow out quietly and let experienced folks talk ;-) and lurk

 

[KJ]

Hey KJ, where's that cool cycle graph you post...

Section 5: The Cycle

image via @rusticgirls

In a freshwater aquarium you can add some flake food, wait a couple weeks, and then you can add fish. In the ocean there is much more involved than mechanical filtration. In fact, 70% of your aquariums filtration relies on the maturity of the live rock. A combination of bacteria, algae, and various invertebrates compose the “live” part of the rock. It takes quite a while to establish an ecosystem, even on a microscopic level. Without a proper understanding of the Marine Cycle, you will be in for a long term battle with parameters and algae. There are six main stages to a properly cycled tank. Follow this guide and you cannot mess up. You will need your basic test kit to test the progress.

Stage 1: Ammonia Cycle

Ammonia is the first thing that forms when something rots. It is a waste product in nearly all creatures as well. Instead of using a fish to start the cycle just use some food. Anything that is all natural and uncooked works just fine. Table shrimp that is uncooked works great. Drop it on the sand so it is in view. The shrimp should begin to rot within a couple hours or more. Let this shrimp rot until it is completely gone. If you are curious what your ammonia levels are, go ahead and take some tests. Keep track of the results as the shrimp rots. The smaller the food gets the more ammonia should be present in your water column and pretty soon should be off the charts. This will stay high for a while, but then start to drop. As soon as the ammonia starts to drop you will see a rise in Nitrite, you are now on the next stage.

Stage 2: Nitrite Cycle

Ammonia when broken down by bacteria becomes Nitrite, which is still a toxin. As your Nitrites rise your Ammonia will drop, drop, and keep dropping as long as you haven’t added any animals. Keep up with testing to observe your progress. Eventually your Ammonia will be very low and your nitrites will peak out until it starts feeding a different type of bacteria that turns it into Nitrates. Once your first signs of Nitrates are seen you are on the next stage.

Stage 3: Nitrate Cycle

Nitrates are removed within the live rock deep inside in all of the deep pours. This hidden bacteria consumes the nitrate and creates nitrogen gas as a byproduct. The nitrogen gas rises in the water column and escapes into the air. When one gas leave, another enters. Oxygen is then infused into the water. After the Nitrates start to dissipate your oxygen will increase and you will be ready for the intermission:

Intermission:

You are not done yet! You may have cultivated a nice crop of groovy bacteria and your water may be clean as can be, but, there are still 3 more stages to the cycle process before you can start your stocking. Take this time to consume all of which you have already done. The next 3 stages often put fear into the eyes of many newcomers. These are perfectly natural and are partially a representation of how the earth became an oxygen rich planet. Before there was any oxygen breathing organisms, there was the evolution of Cyanobacteria. This is a photosynthetic bacteria that creates Oxygen as a byproduct. There are several colors, but the commonality is that it is like a slime. The Cyanobacteria spread over a vast area and the atmosphere became oxygen rich like we breath today, without the smog. Cyanobacteria is responsible for life as we know it. The same applies to the reef. Now that your mind has been blown you may move on to the next stage of the cycle.

Pre-Algae Cycle:

If your lights have not been setup yet do so now. Set your timers as you would for a reef tank. Anywhere from 6-12 hours is a good amount of time. Set the photoperiod to be on during the hours you will be viewing the tank most. If you work 2nd shift it is OK to have the lights come on after you get home from work or when you wake up in the morning. As long as there is not a supply of sunlight near the tank you wont have a long term battle with algae.

Stage 4: Diatoms

diatom algae image via reef2reef member @Steven R

Diatoms are a brown dusty life form that consumes silicates. There is no avoiding Diatoms during their initial bloom. Leave it be. Let it go crazy. Before you know it, the brown stuff will soon start to change colors. Generally red, this is the start of the next stage!

Stage 5: Cyanobacteria

cyanobacteria image via reef2reef member @Murfman

Cyanobacteria will now begin its course. Again you will let the slime just do its thing. This will be the nastiest of the stages. Cyanobacteria can gross some people out, especially if they catch a whiff of it. It is best to leave it be. It will start to clear up eventually. The clearing of the slime makes way for yet another stage.

Stage 6: Green/Brown algae

hair algae image via reef2reef member @johnmaloney

If you have made it this far, give yourself a round of applause. This is the final “battle” of the cycle process. When the slime is gone you will see your first signs of plant life, algae! Green Hair algae is usually the type that you see, but some other types have been known to occur. This stuff will grow like mad. At this point you are ready to move on to the next phase.

The cycle is a long process in terms of hobbies. Find yourself a good rhythm for testing. Get yourself in the habit of staring for long periods of time. Practice observation by watching as life forms start taking foot in the aquarium. You will see things from dust sized particles to worms that reach a foot long. There really is no telling what could form in your tank. This is a great time to prepare for the animals you will get. Knowing how to describe things and being able to correctly test the water will help you get the information you need. Your parameters are perfect now. You are now ready to move on to the next section. You should actually study the next section during your cycle, since you will have quite a bit of time on your hands with all that waiting.

Cycles can be artificially induced, but it is always preferred to use as little foreign liquids as possible. Another thing you can do during the cycle is preparing your clean up crew and first fish, but be prepared to keep them quarantined for a prolonged time since the cycle is unpredictable.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

once I reach the final stage and I get hair algae,

you might not.....

do I need to take care of that or do I just get a clean up crew to clean it all up

both. dont wait too long for snails IMO. they eat a lot more then we think they do.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

but taking it to my LFS gives me an excuse to go there and look at my potential future family members .

good point....

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/choosing-cleanup-crew-critters.258695/

 

[taintstick]

If I were you, let the tank do its thing naturally. You can use a friends tank water for water changes, or maybe your LFS will let you buy some tank water. Add CUC once algae is present. When coralline algae is popping up, I'd say your good to go, just get params in order.