ok i think I think my ph is a little low and my softies aren't blooming today aas

[Ballyhoo]

i'm not really sure how to be precise in reading this test tube depending if I hold it against a light, it looks pretty thin the slow pH but as I said it down on this picture, it looks like maybe pH is higher. I don't really know. but today many of my softies are not blooming. Like they usually do.

 

[Dom]

Post all of your water parameters.

 

[Ballyhoo]

What are the most important parameters for me to post? What does "all parameters " mean? for example I still don't have a par meter.
THANK YOU!!

edit but I'm not even sure exactly what my pH is. It's hard for me to interpret it using the color chart. It seems a little bit on the light side, but I'm not sure.

 

[Dbichler]

Phosphate nitrate alk cal mag salinity

 

[Ballyhoo]

I should also mention my tank is relatively new, seven weeks and it's going through an algae bloom.

 

[Dom]

What are the most important parameters for me to post? What does "all parameters " mean? for example I still don't have a par meter.
THANK YOU!!

edit but I'm not even sure exactly what my pH is. It's hard for me to interpret it using the color chart. It seems a little bit on the light side, but I'm not sure.

Generally speaking, we monitor:

Temperature
Salinity
pH
Alkalinity
Calcium

Those are the big 5 for me.

In the beginning, you should test regularly and keep a log. As you become more connected to the tank, you will rely less on testing and more on observation.

In my understanding, Calcium and Alkalinity levels are the two most important elements to be present in a reef tank where coral growth is concerned.

I also understand that salinity impacts other chemistry in the tank, so having proper salinity is the foundation for good chemistry numbers in my view.

 

[Ballyhoo]

well, I test these regularly and always find them to be within range. I would have to go back and retest to give the exact measurements for today. Only thing is it seems like my tank might be a little bit higher in temperature. It's usually above 80°. this I don't quite understand since I set my heaters for 25.5 Celsius. Maybe the thermometers just strong

 

[Reefering1]

You should keep a notebook where you write test results, visual observations, and record of everything dosed and added to the tank. Testing doesn't do much good if you don't know the results of prior tests...

 

[Ballyhoo]

OK, but well, an algae bloom affect soft corals?

 

[Dom]

well, I test these regularly and always find them to be within range. I would have to go back and retest to give the exact measurements for today. Only thing is it seems like my tank might be a little bit higher in temperature. It's usually above 80°. this I don't quite understand since I set my heaters for 25.5 Celsius. Maybe the thermometers just strong

80 degrees is high. I keep my temperature controller at 24.8 Celsius which is around 76 degrees. And for some, even that is high. But I'm getting good results at that temperature, so that where I keep my tanks.

I would test your water temperature with a good old fashioned mercury thermometer. Digital thermometers are often inaccurate.

 

[Reefering1]

Have you been putting that boiled Britta water in your tank?

 

[Glowurm]

well, I test these regularly and always find them to be within range. I would have to go back and retest to give the exact measurements for today. Only thing is it seems like my tank might be a little bit higher in temperature. It's usually above 80°. this I don't quite understand since I set my heaters for 25.5 Celsius. Maybe the thermometers just strong

Buy an inkbird, relying on the thermometer in your heater is asking for trouble and your also risking tank collapse if say a heater blows and you have no way of knowing. Also set up a back up heater to the inkbird so worst case if one fails the other can pick up the slack.

 

[Bruttall]

I monitor Salinity, Temp, and PH. I test for Calc, Phos, Nitrate, and Dkh.
Believe is was Randy Fraley that wrote about Mag chasing Calc so no real need to test Mag.

Any changes to water parameters can cause zoa's to close, or hide, but they seem to bounce back faster than anything else adapting as well.
My water PH stays pretty consistant at 8.6, while my DKh fluctuates between about 7.4 and 11.0 (11 due to me over compensating on additive usually) I aim for 9.6.

Correct me if I am wrong but in my experience PH doesn't move much but DKh does, alot. I dose Arm and Hammerr baking soda for DKh, mixed with RODI water. it works very well. to raise DKh, but it is very powerful, I add about 1/2 teaspoon mixed with 200ml RODI when I add it.