ONE CARELESS MOMENT.....

EASTERN INDIGO

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I just did a water change on a 120 fish only. The tank has 8 foxfaces, one clown trigger and one angel. They have all lived together peacefully for two or three months. NEVER BEEN TREATED WITH COPPER OR CP. I took my eye off the tank for one minute or less and the water level rose to the point where the feed end of the hose (which I NEVER allow to touch the tank water) accidentally became submerged. When I turned the pump off it syphoned water back into my 325 ALMOST FULL, storage vat. So now my concern is this: Since those fish were never treated with ich/velvet preventatives, have I contaminated my vat? I already know the answer: Possible, and it's now Russian Roulette. Now I plan to throw 225 gallons of water away, refill with fresh and bleach to sterilize. Then buy more water. Anybody disagree? Am I too paranoid? I have two other long term large tanks with no known disease ever. Thanks in advance.
 

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Today I went to drop off a load of a nems, when I got back most of my fuge had siphoned over the 5 gallon bucket I was using temporarily and was all over the floor, only about 30 gallons, but still a big old mess. At least yours is still there!
I think you'd be fine. I don't know if you run a UV on your tank but if you do hook it to your storage tank for a few weeks if you are worried, but if everything in the tank is healthy I wouldn't overthink it.
 
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EASTERN INDIGO

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Although the fish have never exhibited Ich or Velvet, If I accidentally sucked some freefloating tomonts into the vat I'd have to let it sit for up to 72 days, which is the longest possible time (currently thought to be) that they can live in water with no fish. Too long. I have another 600 gallons of tanks that need changing. That's my only vat. I'm less concerned with saving that water than all the work I'm going to have to do to dump the water, refill, add chlorine, then empty it again and refill with salt a few days later.
 
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EASTERN INDIGO

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Although the fish have never exhibited Ich or Velvet, If I accidentally sucked some freefloating tomonts into the vat I'd have to let it sit for up to 72 days, which is the longest possible time (currently thought to be) that they can live in water with no fish. Too long. I have another 600 gallons of tanks that need changing. That's my only vat. I'm less concerned with saving that water than all the work I'm going to have to do to dump the water, refill, add chlorine, then empty it again and refill with salt a few days later.
Was this 325 gallons of fresh RO/DI water you are concerned about, or more expensive 'salt-added' water?
Purchased seawater (I live in Ft. Lauderdale). I don't care that much about the replacement cost. On the one hand, it's a lot of work to do what I need to; on the other hand, I don't know if I'll regret the decision not to do it. I am VERY attached to my two long term display tanks. thanks.
 

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Okay, better picture now. If you have a UV, use that on the vat for a few days and you should be good. Just make sure to run it at the parasite level and not the dino/algae level.

After having one of those devastating issues, I get the conflict. Are all the fish in the 600g qt'ed or were they run with the same management protocol? If management, they should be fine as they will have the immunity they need.

Good luck!!!!
 

ClownWrangler

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Option 1: Throw in a black molly as a canary.

or

Run water through a filter that is fine enough to filter out any parasites? I don't know how big they are though, so this may not be practical.
 
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EASTERN INDIGO

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Okay, better picture now. If you have a UV, use that on the vat for a few days and you should be good. Just make sure to run it at the parasite level and not the dino/algae level.

After having one of those devastating issues, I get the conflict. Are all the fish in the 600g qt'ed or were they run with the same management protocol? If management, they should be fine as they will have the immunity they need.

Good luck!!!!
 
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EASTERN INDIGO

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I do have a 40 watt pond uv with a new bulb that has never been used. However, there is only one mode: ON. Can you explain what you meant? Also, can you please explain this: Are all the fish in the 600g qt'ed or were they run with the same management protocol? Thank you very much for taking time to respond.
 
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EASTERN INDIGO

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Can't you just fallow the vat of water? Only swimmers could have gotten through? I don't believe they need as long a fallow period as hard surfaces either.
Oh, but if it were only that easy!! This is my only vat, and about 1000 gallons of tanks depend on it. Thanks for taking the time to respond.
 

ClownWrangler

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I do have a 40 watt pond uv with a new bulb that has never been used. However, there is only one mode: ON. Can you explain what you meant? Also, can you please explain this: Are all the fish in the 600g qt'ed or were they run with the same management protocol? Thank you very much for taking time to respond.

It takes a lot more UV intensity to kill a parasite than algae I imagine. I never heard of a "mode" for that though. I would say a slower flow rate through the sterilizer for increased exposure time. But This would only mitigate the risk in my mind, not eliminate it
 

ClownWrangler

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Idea 1:
Double the salinity of the water. That should kill anything in it. Then when you use it, dilute it by 1/2.
Or go the other direction, hyposalinity.

Idea 2:
Raise the temperature of the water to a point where nothing could survive.

Idea 3:
Bombardment with 100 keV to 2 MeV neutron radiation (as a last resort).
 
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DeniseAndy

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Hi,
As I said about the UV sterilizers it has to do with flow through the barrel and the watt of the bulb. You run a slower flow rate through for parasites and higher for the algae. Most of the sterilizers that are worth anything will give you the flow rate they want through for each. Can be tough to find just the right pump. I think a pond one may not have the right pump for the parasite control.

I like ClownWrangler ideas. May be a simple way to handle it. I also thought about a few crazy methods last night. I was up all night due to some meds. If you had Chloriquine phosphate you could treat the vat. Wait 5 days and should be good. Run a carbon rx and good to go.

Crazy last ditch thought: you can add some bleach. It has a short life and you can add some prime to kill the stuff you added after 24 hours. Risky a bit, but not if you wait a full week and add lots of prime.I have bleached items and used them quickly. Never water, but same concept. -- @Randy Holmes-Farley

The QT question for the 600 gallon is now twofold. Is the 600g tank a fish only or is there inverts in it too? My question was whether or not you had all the fish in the 600g quarantined and treated? If not and they are wild caught, they probably have a good enough immune system to fight off any creatures that come through the water. Then there is real no danger in using the water. This is assuming as you said that the fish in the fish only 125 have been with you for many months with no symptoms. Velvet would have raised it ugly head by a few months.
 
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EASTERN INDIGO

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Thanks to everybody for your creative replies. I liked many of them. The fact is that I knew I wouldn't sleep unless I just emptied it out and started over. It is now 100% fresh water with 10 gallons of swimming pool chlorine (which will evaporate over a day or two) and then I am going to heat the water to 90 degrees for a week or ten days and then order new seawater. I have the pump in there, and the potentially contaminated hose as well, and the water is circulating in the vat. WHY COULDN'T I PICK A HOBBY COUNTING LEAVES ON A TREE OR BUILDING SAND CASTLES AT THE BEACH? Nothing to die, absolutely free (except maybe for parking at the beach). Even shooting heroin is less expensive and probably more enjoyable!!! Maybe next life. Thanks to everybody, and my apologies to anybody I didn't respond to. I can assure you it was the navigation error of an inexperienced poster.
 

ClownWrangler

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Thanks to everybody for your creative replies. I liked many of them. The fact is that I knew I wouldn't sleep unless I just emptied it out and started over. It is now 100% fresh water with 10 gallons of swimming pool chlorine (which will evaporate over a day or two) and then I am going to heat the water to 90 degrees for a week or ten days and then order new seawater. I have the pump in there, and the potentially contaminated hose as well, and the water is circulating in the vat. WHY COULDN'T I PICK A HOBBY COUNTING LEAVES ON A TREE OR BUILDING SAND CASTLES AT THE BEACH? Nothing to die, absolutely free (except maybe for parking at the beach). Even shooting heroin is less expensive and probably more enjoyable!!! Maybe next life. Thanks to everybody, and my apologies to anybody I didn't respond to. I can assure you it was the navigation error of an inexperienced poster.

The bleach is overkill. The fresh water alone would have killed any saltwater pests. That much bleach in an enclosed area could be dangerous as the fumes are toxic. I hope the area is well ventilated. Also, I doubt they sterilize the seawater. Who knows what that will bring with it. Had I noticed the bit about the seawater earlier, I would have pointed out you are just chasing your tail.
 
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