Opinions about my new tank

[GoVols]

The nem. might not make thru the cycle, but the clown's will.

I would not dose Prime. Just let it cycle.

Welcome to Reef 2 Reef...

 

[Eve]

The nem. might not make thru the cycle, but the clown's will.

I would not dose Prime. Just let it cycle.

Welcome to Reef 2 Reef...

Thank you!! What do you think of the hawkfish? Do you think he will make it??

 

[GoVols]

Thank you!! What do you think of the hawkfish? Do you think he will make it??

I don't know, but dosing bacteria would not hurt.

I know it's frowned upon now, but we used to kick start a tank, and cycle with clown fish all the time or any other's from the damsel fish family.

The safe thing would to pull all out, except your pair of clowns.

 

[Dom]

As I read down a thread like this, I feel my frustration go up and by extension, my blood pressure. LOL

Personally, I would love to go face to face with local fish stores that take advantage of people just as the LFS that the OP patronized did.

If feeding your family is the reason you mislead people and take their money until they throw in the towel in the hobby, it is unacceptable. Find a different way to make a living. I have grown weary of the industry taking advantage of people who have an interest in becoming part of our community. It's a good community, and I don't appreciate the tactics of the LFS soiling the hobby's reputation.

My advice to the OP:

You have been taken down a path to saltwater that is difficult for an entry level person to see success. You'll keep running back to the LFS with new problems, and every time, they will have something else to sell you.

Personally, I would remove the fish and bring them back to the LFS. Then I would wait for the tank to cycle properly, which takes TIME. Upon completion of the cycle, I would start thinking about adding fish.

One of the problems with the guidance you've been given; I have not read anything about a quarantine period. By not quarantining, you run the risk of infecting everything in the tank. AND, if it is a disease which requires copper, you can't treat in your display. Now you're looking at a second tank to use as a "hospital" while going fallow for 90 days in the DT.

I'm sorry; I don't mean to rain on your parade. But if it is longevity in the hobby that you seek, I don't think you will see it going this route.

 

[Jon Fishman]

Stop adding "conditioner" to the "Freshwater" you need to replace the water with good clean water that has no dissolved solids. If you're adding conditioner to tap-water you are likely adding lots of bad stuff to your tank still. I would get a cheap TDS meter from amazon (under 10 bucks I think) and start using distilled water or buying RODI water from the local fish shop.

Good luck, nice looking anemone.

 

[Eve]

As I read down a thread like this, I feel my frustration go up and by extension, by blood pressure. LOL

Personally, I would love to go face to face with local fish stores that take advantage of people just as the LFS that the OP patronized did.

If feeding your family is the reason you mislead people and take their money until they throw in the towel in the hobby, it is unacceptable. Find a different way to make a living. I have grown weary of the industry taking advantage of people who have an interest in becoming part of our community. It's a good community, and I don't appreciate the tactics of the LFS soiling the hobby's reputation.

My advice to the OP:

You have been taken down a path to saltwater that is difficult for an entry level person to see success. You'll keep running back to the LFS with new problems, and every time, they will have something else to sell you.

Personally, I would remove the fish and bring them back to the LFS. Then I would wait for the tank to cycle properly, which takes TIME. Upon completion of the cycle, I would start thinking about adding fish.

One of the problems with the guidance your been given; I have not read anything about a quarantine period. By not quarantining, you run the risk of infecting everything in the tank. AND, if it is a disease which requires copper, you can't treat in your display. Now you're looking at a second tank to use as a "hospital" while going fallow for 90 days.

I'm sorry; I don't mean to rain on your parade. But if it is longevity in the hobby that you seek, I don't think you will see it going this route.

Hi, it’s okay, I understand. I definitely appreciate the honesty and advice. Trust me!

 

[MnFish1]

As I read down a thread like this, I feel my frustration go up and by extension, by blood pressure. LOL

Personally, I would love to go face to face with local fish stores that take advantage of people just as the LFS that the OP patronized did.

If feeding your family is the reason you mislead people and take their money until they throw in the towel in the hobby, it is unacceptable. Find a different way to make a living. I have grown weary of the industry taking advantage of people who have an interest in becoming part of our community. It's a good community, and I don't appreciate the tactics of the LFS soiling the hobby's reputation.

My advice to the OP:

You have been taken down a path to saltwater that is difficult for an entry level person to see success. You'll keep running back to the LFS with new problems, and every time, they will have something else to sell you.

Personally, I would remove the fish and bring them back to the LFS. Then I would wait for the tank to cycle properly, which takes TIME. Upon completion of the cycle, I would start thinking about adding fish.

One of the problems with the guidance your been given; I have not read anything about a quarantine period. By not quarantining, you run the risk of infecting everything in the tank. AND, if it is a disease which requires copper, you can't treat in your display. Now you're looking at a second tank to use as a "hospital" while going fallow for 90 days.

I'm sorry; I don't mean to rain on your parade. But if it is longevity in the hobby that you seek, I don't think you will see it going this route.

2 weeks is very early to add fish. You need to make sure your tank is cycled before you add any livestock.

Your rock doesn't look like "live rock." True live rock will be purple, pink, green etc. It will also have many things living on and in the rock. It looks like you have dry rock, which may have been live at one time, but has been cleaned and doesn't have any of the beneficial bacteria living on and in it.

Also, you tank needs to be pretty stable for an anemone. Most recommend waiting months to a year before adding one of these

I agree that the advice above is 'common wisdom'. I however followed none of it over the course of setting up numerous reef tanks. 2 Clownfish - and what looks like a relatively hardy anemone are likely going to do fine - especially with added bacteria (and I would add that Fritz Turbo (the one that has to be kept cool) would be better than stability based on studies done by @Dr. Reef . I wouldn't add anything more - and the hawkfish might be pushing it - but I dont think anything recommended here was 'malpractice'.

Anemones often live in tidal pools - or other places that are hardly 'stable'. Again - I know its all the conventional wisdom - but (IMHO) people that wait weeks for rock to cycle in a bucket or their tanks to cycle are 'wasting time'. Dont want to get into a debate about any of these things - they just represent my experience and my opinion - im not endorsing or suggesting anyone else do anything different. But - with this tank and how it looks - I would also not return everything in a panic. After all the NITRATE levels are already 50 (if thats an accurate value) so there has to be some 'cycle' already happening (again though without a nitrite level - its unclear whether this is a 'false positively high'

 

[Eve]

Stop adding "conditioner" to the "Freshwater" you need to replace the water with good clean water that has no dissolved solids. If you're adding conditioner to tap-water you are likely adding lots of bad stuff to your tank still. I would get a cheap TDS meter from amazon (under 10 bucks I think) and start using distilled water or buying RODI water from the local fish shop.

Good luck, nice looking anemone.

Thank you!! And yes that’s what I was doing! Adding conditioner to tap water. I was told not to get a RODI and ATO for such small tank, that it won’t be necessary ugh now I am mad. I will stop the conditioner tho. Thank you!!

 

[Eve]

I agree that the advice above is 'common wisdom'. I however followed none of it over the course of setting up numerous reef tanks. 2 Clownfish - and what looks like a relatively hardy anemone are likely going to do fine - especially with added bacteria (and I would add that Fritz Turbo (the one that has to be kept cool) would be better than stability based on studies done by @Dr. Reef . I wouldn't add anything more - and the hawkfish might be pushing it - but I dont think anything recommended here was 'malpractice'.

Anemones often live in tidal pools - or other places that are hardly 'stable'. Again - I know its all the conventional wisdom - but (IMHO) people that wait weeks for rock to cycle in a bucket or their tanks to cycle are 'wasting time'. Dont want to get into a debate about any of these things - they just represent my experience and my opinion - im not endorsing or suggesting anyone else do anything different. But - with this tank and how it looks - I would also not return everything in a panic. After all the NITRATE levels are already 50 (if thats an accurate value) so there has to be some 'cycle' already happening (again though without a nitrite level - its unclear whether this is a 'false positively high'

Yes, I am on my way to get the fritz and an extra nitrite test because I don’t think the one I am using right now is accurate at all.

 

[Jon Fishman]

Thank you!! And yes that’s what I was doing! Adding conditioner to tap water. I was told not to get a RODI and ATO for such small tank, that it won’t be necessary ugh now I am mad. I will stop the conditioner tho. Thank you!!

You can get an ATO, or you can not..... but when you add water to it, or mix saltwater, it should always start with RODI

 

[Mastiffsrule]

Lots of good advice coming thru. I would suggest let’s stay on OP, eve issue. We can discuss LFS, ATO and QT down the road with her. None of that is helping her concern. I say let’s put out the largest fire first, the current issue.

Great idea, let’s test all 3 Ammonia nitrate and ite. Get an idea where she is. I don’t see an issue putting prime. Also a little water change will not hurt . If the LFS could hold her guys until cycle done we should not leave then in there to ride it out.

Let’s direct her to the article setting up a tank.

 

[Mastiffsrule]

Here you go, file this as a good read as soon as you can

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-supreme-guide-to-setting-up-a-saltwater-reef-aquarium.138750/

 

[BestMomEver]

Welcome to the reef! Everyone here wants to help. We’re a great group of folks. A few things....

Not everyone agrees on every method but there are some things that never change...
1. Your tank will cycle. Some do it with fish, some without. Back in the day, we dropped a damsel into a new tank to get it going. Now, since we have bacteria in a bottle, it’s not necessary to add fish.
2. You know your tank has cycled when ammonia and nitrite are 0 and nitrates are around 5-10 (ideally). If your nitrates stay higher than that, you will have trouble with....
3. The new tank uglies. Every tank, once cycled, will have Cyanobacteria, diatoms, and/or green hair algae. Or all three. How much you feed and how many critters you have (and subsequently, how high your nitrates are) will determine how bad it is. Everyone goes through it. When you get there, we’ll be here.
4. Top off systems are not necessary, but if you get one, you’ll wonder how you ever lived without it. If you don’t have a RO/DI unit you can probably buy water from the LFS. I had a tank for two years with no RO unit. I bought my water.
5. Overstocking a new tank is one of the things that can greatly contribute to a lot of different problems down the road. Aim for 1” of full grown fish for each 3-5 gallons of water. Your two clowns plus the hawk, once full grown, will account for about 9 inches of fish (3” each). With just those, you’re at the three gallon limit. If you add more, you’ll need to do bigger and more frequent water changes. You may also find at some point that you want a skimmer. It will really help with filtration and waste removal.
6. Quarantine tanks are great but not necessary to keep all the time. You can pick up 5 gallon tanks very cheaply if you need it. If your fish get sick, we’ll help you.
6. As tempting as it may be, try to resist the urge to buy anemones or corals for at least nine months. Both of those require well established systems and advanced lighting.
7. Advanced lighting is expensive.

Lordy be, there is so much! Go to Bulk Reef Supply website and check out their 52 weeks of reefing video series. It great!

Btw.... condy anemones are not natural hosts for any clown fish species I know of. If you hope to see your clowns dive into an anemone, you’ll want a different anemone. Condy anemones are very aggressive. I had a very large one in a 29 gallon tank that ate his 3” damsel companion. I sold the anemone after that.

Please ask all the questions you want.

 

[MnFish1]

Welcome to the reef! Everyone here wants to help. We’re a great group of folks. A few things....

Not everyone agrees on every method but there are some things that never change...
1. Your tank will cycle. Some do it with fish, some without. Back in the day, we dropped a damsel into a new tank to get it going. Now, since we have bacteria in a bottle, it’s not necessary to add fish.
2. You know your tank has cycled when ammonia and nitrite are 0 and nitrates are around 5-10 (ideally). If your nitrates stay higher than that, you will have trouble with....
3. The new tank uglies. Every tank, once cycled, will have Cyanobacteria, diatoms, and/or green hair algae. Or all three. How much you feed and how many critters you have (and subsequently, how high your nitrates are) will determine how bad it is. Everyone goes through it. When you get there, we’ll be here.
4. Top off systems are not necessary, but if you get one, you’ll wonder how you ever lived without it. If you don’t have a RO/DI unit you can probably buy water from the LFS. I had a tank for two years with no RO unit. I bought my water.
5. Overstocking a new tank is one of the things that can greatly contribute to a lot of different problems down the road. Aim for 1” of full grown fish for each 3-5 gallons of water. Your two clowns plus the hawk, once full grown, will account for about 9 inches of fish (3” each). With just those, you’re at the three gallon limit. If you add more, you’ll need to do bigger and more frequent water changes. You may also find at some point that you want a skimmer. It will really help with filtration and waste removal.
6. Quarantine tanks are great but not necessary to keep all the time. You can pick up 5 gallon tanks very cheaply if you need it. If your fish get sick, we’ll help you.
6. As tempting as it may be, try to resist the urge to buy anemones or corals for at least nine months. Both of those require well established systems and advanced lighting.
7. Advanced lighting is expensive.

Lordy be, there is so much! Go to Bulk Reef Supply website and check out their 52 weeks of reefing video series. It great!

Btw.... condy anemones are not natural hosts for any clown fish species I know of. If you hope to see your clowns dive into an anemone, you’ll want a different anemone. Condy anemones are very aggressive. I had a very large one in a 29 gallon tank that ate his 3” damsel companion. I sold the anemone after that.

Please ask all the questions you want.

The only thing I would correct in this - is that - some of the 'bacteria in a bottle' recommends adding fish immediately (as the ammonia source) - as compared to Dr. Tims (who recommends adding ammonia for a certain time).

If she is feeding lightly (and they will do fine with light feedings) - it should be no problem at all. Everyone seems to be recommending something on - partial information (an API ammonia and no nitrite - and a high nitrate - which may or may not be a false positive.

But - I have so say as usual - you did a great summary @BestMomEver You may need to change your handle to 'bestaquaristever' - unless @Paul B has that one already copyrighted: Yes Paul that was a joke

 

[MnFish1]

You can get an ATO, or you can not..... but when you add water to it, or mix saltwater, it should always start with RODI

You can use RODI water from your store - or make your own - just have to decide how much it will cost you to get the system - and then maintain the modules. IMHO there is nothing evil in water conditioners - it's the other stuff in the water that the conditioners dont help.

 

[lapin]

Is prime the same as conditioner? I have been using conditioner for the new freshwater.

If you do use prime for the high ammonia levels so it does not kill the fish, it requires redosing every 48 hours. After 48 hours it releases ammonia back into the water ( this is in noted on their web site)

 

[Eve]

Welcome to the reef! Everyone here wants to help. We’re a great group of folks. A few things....

Not everyone agrees on every method but there are some things that never change...
1. Your tank will cycle. Some do it with fish, some without. Back in the day, we dropped a damsel into a new tank to get it going. Now, since we have bacteria in a bottle, it’s not necessary to add fish.
2. You know your tank has cycled when ammonia and nitrite are 0 and nitrates are around 5-10 (ideally). If your nitrates stay higher than that, you will have trouble with....
3. The new tank uglies. Every tank, once cycled, will have Cyanobacteria, diatoms, and/or green hair algae. Or all three. How much you feed and how many critters you have (and subsequently, how high your nitrates are) will determine how bad it is. Everyone goes through it. When you get there, we’ll be here.
4. Top off systems are not necessary, but if you get one, you’ll wonder how you ever lived without it. If you don’t have a RO/DI unit you can probably buy water from the LFS. I had a tank for two years with no RO unit. I bought my water.
5. Overstocking a new tank is one of the things that can greatly contribute to a lot of different problems down the road. Aim for 1” of full grown fish for each 3-5 gallons of water. Your two clowns plus the hawk, once full grown, will account for about 9 inches of fish (3” each). With just those, you’re at the three gallon limit. If you add more, you’ll need to do bigger and more frequent water changes. You may also find at some point that you want a skimmer. It will really help with filtration and waste removal.
6. Quarantine tanks are great but not necessary to keep all the time. You can pick up 5 gallon tanks very cheaply if you need it. If your fish get sick, we’ll help you.
6. As tempting as it may be, try to resist the urge to buy anemones or corals for at least nine months. Both of those require well established systems and advanced lighting.
7. Advanced lighting is expensive.

Lordy be, there is so much! Go to Bulk Reef Supply website and check out their 52 weeks of reefing video series. It great!

Btw.... condy anemones are not natural hosts for any clown fish species I know of. If you hope to see your clowns dive into an anemone, you’ll want a different anemone. Condy anemones are very aggressive. I had a very large one in a 29 gallon tank that ate his 3” damsel companion. I sold the anemone after that.

Please ask all the questions you want.

Thank you so much !! I love all the info. I will be returning the anemone, but I am having a problem getting it to let the rock go lol. I might have to take the whole rock to the store and let them remove it.

 

[flchamp89]

Thank you so much !! I love all the info. I will be returning the anemone, but I am having a problem getting it to let the rock go lol. I might have to take the whole rock to the store and let them remove it.

Try pointing a power head at it or try ice cube.

 

[MnFish1]

Thank you so much !! I love all the info. I will be returning the anemone, but I am having a problem getting it to let the rock go lol. I might have to take the whole rock to the store and let them remove it.

I would not get rid of the anemone - if you do - take the whole rock its on - and bring it back - based on what you've said - I would stay the course (since there is incomplete information) - thats just MO. Of course - removing anemones - and rehoming them also comes with risks - so changing again in such a short time could also kill the anemone.

 

[Jon Fishman]

I agree..... it looks like it's doing fine. I would get 'good' water, and be prepared to do a lot more water-changes if necessary, and monitor your levels to get your ammonia under control, but I would just keep it and keep an eye on it.

What lights are you using? (sorry if mentioned previously)