Overflow/plumbing question

Anotherfatninja

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This will be my first time posting to the forums, but I have lurked here for a few years now. I’m not exactly new to saltwater, but my experience is limited to a 29 gallon biocube. I have recently purchased a used 125 gallon tank and have a few questions as I get started. I plan on posting a build thread once I have a game plan.
It’s gonna take some time to get this tank back together and I want to make sure things go smoothly. I’ve looked over several forums for the proper way to setup this type overflow and can’t get a real definitive answer as to what would work the best. If you look at the pictures I’ve posted you can see the previous owner used flexible hose coming from both the far left and right back glass with a smaller hole for the return in the center. Most of the setups I have researched suggest bean and Herbie style,but have the holes drilled much closer than those in my new purchase. There is also no overflow boxes inside the aquarium and that doesn’t seem to be the norm for a back drilled aquariums. The flex line is attached to bulkhead and then a filter on an elbow inside the tank. I may just be overthinking this, but I want to get it right the first time. I have zero issue with hard plumbing the tank,but wanna get some input before I proceed. The method the previous owner used seemed very odd because the water level inside her sump barley covered the bottom part of the skimmer. Any tips,tricks or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks ahead of time.
CA3E2059-E417-42EB-8347-AF920246BC7A.jpeg
 
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Anotherfatninja

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What does it look like on the other side? Because you really need an overflow box to run a bean/herbie.
It just has 2 elbows with a filter going directly into the tank on both the left and right sides. I’m fairly certain thelady I purchased it from had zero clue what was going on as she hadn’t done a water change in 2 years. It was up and running before I broke it down though. I’ll post a few more pics of how she set it up and when I return from work I’ll show ya the empty setup.

D1777C76-1237-4A55-AE0E-A00498D039CC.jpeg A3562448-DE4E-46E6-8022-6403C795CD01.jpeg
 

lapin

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Looks like those holes are going to require a custom overflow box if want to run a bean or herbie style overflow. I assume the middle line is the return? You might even think about plugging those holes and starting from scratch. Will save money on the overflow. Now you could make an internal overflow yourself if you are handy. It might be a bit deep or all the way to the bottom...... I bought a used weird tank sort of like that and used those low holes for a closed loop and drilled new holes and put an overflow box on it.
Idea perhaps

idea.jpg
 
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Anotherfatninja

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Looks like those holes are going to require a custom overflow box if want to run a bean or herbie style overflow. I assume the middle line is the return? You might even think about plugging those holes and starting from scratch. Will save money on the overflow. Now you could make an internal overflow yourself if you are handy. It might be a bit deep or all the way to the bottom...... I bought a used weird tank sort of like that and used those low holes for a closed loop and drilled new holes and put an overflow box on it.
Idea perhaps

idea.jpg
Thanks for the suggestions. Did you just use pvc to build the boxes in the pic??? If I could fashion similar boxes is there a way to do a safe overflow setup without drilling anymore holes? Sounds not an issue since this is in my basement, so less sound efficient methods would suffice. Thanks again.
 

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It looks like it would be possible to remove the existing overflow boxes and install a custom coast to coast or nearly coast to coast style box. From the second pics I realized the holes are along the top edge which gives you more options.
 

lapin

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It looks like it would be possible to remove the existing overflow boxes and install a custom coast to coast or nearly coast to coast style box. From the second pics I realized the holes are along the top edge which gives you more options.
The picture I posted with 4 holes in the back is not the OP's tank.

Thanks for the suggestions. Did you just use pvc to build the boxes in the pic??? If I could fashion similar boxes is there a way to do a safe overflow setup without drilling anymore holes? Sounds not an issue since this is in my basement, so less sound efficient methods would suffice. Thanks again.

The tank came that way and they are acrylic. She ended up removing 1 box and drilling more holes so she could make a bean with 1 overflow.
Back_bean.jpg


You could make a long overflow box the length of your tank and have it go all the way down to the bottom of your tank. 1 long panel. Sort of like a divider with teeth cut in the top. You would need to leave room enough for the bean style internal pipes and 90"s so they would exit thru your existing holes.
 
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Anotherfatninja

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Here are some pictures of that tank in it’s current state. This may give everyone a better perspective of where the bulkheads are. I set the inside up the way the previous owner had it.

41A652C3-392F-4E2E-8CC9-9B01A25E8C00.jpeg 89527C14-7CDF-4839-A46A-FC83C977C42A.jpeg C94DF931-8FA9-4DDE-A999-162E9C582664.jpeg 25E1EF32-8090-49E9-802D-E954A4EAC087.jpeg
 

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Yup, I would remove the fittings, replace the bulkheads, and install a CtC out of glass (it looks like a glass tank so you want to use the same material the tank is made out of) and then you can use all 3 holes to make a Bean setup. HTH and GL
 

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I used something similar but with a single slot running the length of the pipe. It didn't work very well. I suggest going to a glass shop and having them cut two pieces then installing them. Much better results IMO.
 
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Anotherfatninja

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I live in a very rural area and don't really have access to a glass shop without making a mini vacation of it lol I have a local mom and pop hardware, buttheydont really work in glass. I am a semi reasonable distance from a lowes. I'm not a 100 percent sure the thin glass they have would work for a long box. Could I still have a siphon line and emergency line even though my holes are drilled at the same level? Thanks again for all the help.
I used something similar but with a single slot running the length of the pipe. It didn't work very well. I suggest going to a glass shop and having them cut two pieces then installing them. Much better results IMO.
 

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There is another way to set that tank up.
If I'm seeing it right, the water level in the main tank as it's set up now is way too low.
With having 2 bulkhead fittings on each end of the tank, without the benefit of a long overflow box, I would take off whatever is on the inside and use the 2 bulkhead fittings as they are now.
I would try and find new slip/slip bulkheads for the holes. Then add a very short ( 2"-2-1/2") piece of pvc, then a slip/slip pvc 90, turned up towards the surface. Then experiment with different lengths of pvc on top of the 90 to get the water level up to above the bottom of the trim line.
If you can't find new slip/slip bulkhead fittings for it and have to use the threaded existing ones, get a threaded slip bushing to use a slip/slip pvc 90.
Then do the tee with a hole in the cap on the outside and whatever type of lines you decide you want to use going to the sump. Hard pvc pipe, spa flex or tubing.
I've used up turned 90's in the past and they do work. They aren't as fancy and slick as a bean animal or a herbie, but they work. I used them on several tanks for 12-14 years.
I used a little bit of gutter guard at the top of the up turned pvc 90's to help keep snails and fish from going in, plus it helps quiet it down.
 

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You have options but imo do a weir. Over the years I have experimented with several variations but my favorite is always a ctc and it would be very easy to do. You only need two pieces (long pieces) of glass, one for the front and one for the bottom. Make the width of the front high enough to set the tank water level to your liking and keep the bottom just wide enough to allow for a turned up 90 coming from the bulkheads. Make a temporary stand to hold the bottom panel in place until the silicone cures and also to hold the front panel as well This would be a Herbie or a modified duros not a "Bean". Having one hole for a main drain and second hole for an emergency drain is suffient imo. The center hole will be your return which would split with a Y and use lockline for flexibility.

Don't use anything less than 1/4" glass and definitely do not use standard window or picture frame glass, it is too thin. You may be able to find a place online that will cut to your size and ship it to you. Check with a company called Glass Cages.
 
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Anotherfatninja

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What would be a reasonable price to pay for that length of glass in person? It’s quite expensive online. The only quote was around 160 online.
You have options but imo do a weir. Over the years I have experimented with several variations but my favorite is always a ctc and it would be very easy to do. You only need two pieces (long pieces) of glass, one for the front and one for the bottom. Make the width of the front high enough to set the tank water level to your liking and keep the bottom just wide enough to allow for a turned up 90 coming from the bulkheads. Make a temporary stand to hold the bottom panel in place until the silicone cures and also to hold the front panel as well This would be a Herbie or a modified duros not a "Bean". Having one hole for a main drain and second hole for an emergency drain is suffient imo. The center hole will be your return which would split with a Y and use lockline for flexibility.

Don't use anything less than 1/4" glass and definitely do not use standard window or picture frame glass, it is too thin. You may be able to find a place online that will cut to your size and ship it to you. Check with a company called Glass Cages.
 

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The price can vary a lot but I would not think it should be more than $50 for both pieces. Last time I bought glass I paid less than $100 for a 2'x4'xx1/2" panel for a tank I was building. My local glass shop is a rip off so I'm sure there are cheaper places.
 
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Anotherfatninja

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The price can vary a lot but I would not think it should be more than $50 for both pieces. Last time I bought glass I paid less than $100 for a 2'x4'xx1/2" panel for a tank I was building. My local glass shop is a rip off so I'm sure there are cheaper places.
Thanks again. If I can’t get the glass local do you think it would be possible to build a 5 sided acrylic box with holes drilled to attach it to the bullheads and have the overflow that way? I’m up for any other suggestions as well. Thanks to everyone for the help so far.
 

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That’s a freshwater set up tank. U could just get a eshoop hang on over flow
 

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