PAR review - looking for feedback

ESH

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I just setup a 25 gallon Frag tank that has been connected to my 90gallon display tank, and am looking for some advice for light settings. I want to be able to grow out some SPS frag's in this tank, lower light areas for lower light corals.
Tank dimensions are 18x18x18.
22 gallons are in the tank, so actual use is approximately 18x18x16
For height reference, on the left hand side of this photo, there are black marks, each which indicates 3.5" (also about 5gallons for this tank).
28237168408_dd9d5395e2_c.jpg


Lighting is the Radion XR15 G4 Pro with filter.
On my display tank, I've been using a modified WWC program, similar to what you can see in the Coral Labs write up.
I will be adding a frag rack in the tank.

28237165788_dce789cd18_b.jpg


  • The Top row shows the initial settings, total intensity 59%.
  • The bottom row is now at 83% overall intensity as I want to be able to grow out SPS frags in this tank.
  • I'm expecting to have them placed 5-9" below the water line. This is Listed as 10.5" from the bottom or 7" form the bottom on the sticky notes
  • This gives me a PAR range of 145-214 dead center. Max was 490 just below the water line.
I use an Apogee SQ 520 meter to measure, submersion settings were turned on.

I know PAR isn't everything, though am hoping I can get some people with more experience to weigh in with their thoughts.

Settings:
Daylight
42111411411_2749b3c16d_c.jpg

Actinics
42065492102_de54747222_c.jpg


I'm wondering if I should consider cranking the daylight all the way up to 100% so I can increase par lower in the tank, or if I'd just be nuking things with LED's.

Flow in the tank is provided by an MP10 and the XAqua return line also creates a decent pulsing motion.

Greatly appreciate your input!
-Eric
 

jda

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If you are going to turn it up, then raise the light way up high.

You can probably do fine with the bottom for new acquisitions and lower-light SPS... but you will need to grow the higher light stuff up higher in the tank, IMO.
 

mcarroll

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How's the 90g doing? Same lights? Did you have a previous tank?

Assuming you have the height/spread set how you want it, then pick a color-setup you like and then set the intensity how you want it and go.

Mostly the answers to your questions depend a lot on personal taste, preferences, and how you end up building the rocks/racks out in the tank. Not quite so much on the corals, which can be extremely adaptable. Especially frags.

As long as your lights hit anywhere from 200-500-ish PAR where you have corals, you should be set – corals should adapt nicely. (That roughly corresponds to the levels between an overcast day and a sunny day in the shade, BTW. Nice coincidence, eh?)

Some corals can stand or like more light. Clams seem to be able to withstand all the light you can pour on them.

But for most tanks, most corals (even clams) that range above will do. (For clams, just make sure to be at the upper end of the range.)

@saltyfilmfolks? :)
 
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ESH

ESH

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90's doing well, though it has the XR30 G4 Pro's with filters. Initially I duplicated the light file onto the XR15, but wasn't seeing as high par numbers from the light meter causing me to start increasing the intensity. I'm kind of surprised that at 83% overall intensity, I'm only seeing around 214 par 5" below the surface. The other tank has higher numbers deeper in the tank, though the 4 sets of LED clusters and white sand bed are playing a big part to the increased coverage.

I'm going to try calibrating the XR15 to see if anything changes. Seems like something is off, though maybe this is normal.
 

jda

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I guess that what you need to decide is how you want this tank to operate? If an extension of your display, then having those kind of PAR values from the XR15 will be great and you can swap stuff between the two. If it is a "working" frag tank with maximum growth for propagation for sales and trades, then the Radion will probably not be what you are wanting...

For example, I really like my frag tanks to be ideal landing spots for wild stuff and clams... so it is daylight(ish) metal halides for me with at 750+ PAR in the middle and 500+ on the edges. I also want ideal growth. I do use more blue in my display, but they are for a different purpose. I light frag tanks stronger than my display with warmer bulbs. Everybody has different ideas for their frag tanks.

...so I digress while apologizing and will ask, what is your goal with the tank?
 
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ESH

ESH

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At what depth are those PAR readings with your Halids at? Just below my surface and dead center under the light, Im at 630, goes up significantly once out of the water. I did calibrate my lights, and the numbers went up. Possibly off from factory, or something I did during calibration caused them to go up. Either way, this brings it closer to whats in my display tank and is getting me better numbers 5" below the surface (240 dead center with the surface choppy, then decreases from there.

Having an extension of the display tank seems best for me. I'd like to be able to place corals purchased in here before mounting them in a permanent home in the display tank. I don't intend to buy wild caught stuff but I can't control if the vendor isn't fully disclosing that info. Knowing the PAR readings I have in here, and in the display tank, gives me the impression I'd be able to move them from one place to another easier. The two tanks are connected and share the same sump, so water quality is the same.

Grow out is another purpose though will come down the line as corals in the display get bigger and I can frag things. Im not at the point in my hobby where I have anything to frag and trade, but maybe in a year I will be. I'd like to at least try too.
 

mcarroll

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Problem solved!! :) :) :) The info about the old tank cerainly erases all the mystery I was imagining....you're already on the right track in duplicating the big tank's light. Onward! :p
 

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