Erics red sea xxl 750

ESH

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 6, 2018
Messages
898
Reaction score
1,034
Location
IL
Here is my new build thread for my RedSea Reefer XXL 750! I currently have a 90gl that I've had up and running for over a year now. Love the tank, but after a year of lugging buckets up the stairs, a few water spills, and a loud overflow, I decided I had enough of a reason to build out a new system. Most everything except the sand from the 90 will be going into the new tank.

1/21/19 edit: About 20 days in, and here is where I'm at with the tank:


but before I got to this, lots has gone into the build!
Tank came in last week and is currently in my garage on moving dollys (each supports 800lbs, if I had a ramp I could push this in the house myself)





Basement sump setup plan will look something like this:

Peninsula sumps are the way of the future!

so much space for storage!


I currently have about 120lbs of live rock in my 90gl, and will be adding another 60-80lbs of live rock which is in a 20gl tank curing, already packed full of pods. Not sure I could add another lb of rock in there!


Planning on going bare bottom for this build.

Found a place in the living room for the tank. bye bye nice floors!

Walls were taped to mark the tank stand height, tank top, and light height, all so I could get an idea of how the tank will look before I moved 370lbs of glass in place. The floors will likely be drilled closer to the front of the stands so I can keep most of the factory plumbing that comes with the tank up towards the front of the stand, along with the gate valve for easier adjustments.



Stand is built! Lots of parts


Doors to come once the electrician is done and the tank is on the stand. Still need to level it.


Build specs:
  • Tank: Red Sea reefer xxl 750
  • Corals: planning a mixed SPS / LPS reef
  • Lighting: 4 radion XR30 g4 pro's w/ their mounts. The reason I went with these vs multiples of the XR15s is that I already had 2, and picked up 2 more slightly used off the boards.
  • Flow: 2 MP40's on one end, 1 Gyre 250 on the other. Also using vivid's dual random flow generator for the return nozzles.
  • Main return pump: Abyzz A200
  • Sump: Using the 40gl that comes with the red sea tank. It will be in the basement, and more plumbing pic's to come once I get the tank up and running!
  • Theiling compact roller matt.
  • Life Reef Ca reactor will transfer from my current tank
  • Life Reef Media reactors will transfer from my current tank
  • Life Reef Skimmer will transfer from my current tank along with the c02 scrubber
  • Currently have a 20gl frag tank connected to my 90. If I can fit it on the stand, this will move next to the basement sump.
  • Currently have a 10gl refugium connected to my 90's sump. Planning on bringing this over to the new tanks sump, however not 100% sure yet as the new sump has a ton of room as is.
  • For control, I currently have a full apex setup on my 90 and will be transferring everything over. Eventually I would like to automate water changes.

Items I need to finalize
  • Basement ceiling / floor support. joists are 2x12's and will be parallel with the tank, so I still need someone out at the house to look and confirm for me I'll be good without additional support. Forum posts have gotten me some good info, appears they are good but I'd rather be 100% certain.
  • Plumbing: red sea parts are metric, sump is in the basement. Also, Abyzz pump outlet is 1.5", and will need to go up and downsize to a .75" connector.
  • Basement sump: will need to verify its enough and won't overflow
  • Drilling through wood floors: More to come on this. Already warned the wife, with promises this is for a near silent tank. With that said, hearing others red sea tanks with the sump in the cabinet tells me they are already pretty silent.
  • Electrician: Have one coming this thursday to return the living room outlet, adding some in the basement, and putting on their own dedicated circuit
  • Tank move plan: Best way to transfer, still need to determine. I think I'll get the new tank up and running, transfer over the inhabitants, bring over the skimmer, Ca Reactor, doser, apex, start testing more frequently until I get the #'s dialed in and go from there.
I already have a RODI station in the basement setup a year ago. I plan to get bigger water tanks for this, add a pump and a line from the basement to the tank upstairs for easier water changes.

Thats it for now! Lots more to come in the next few months! Thanks for looking!

-Eric
 
Last edited:

NY_Caveman

likes words, fish and arbitrary statistics
View Badges
Joined
Sep 8, 2017
Messages
12,682
Reaction score
66,702
Location
New York
Very nice. Looks like a good start.

 

SPR1968

Fish & Coral Addict!
View Badges
Joined
Feb 21, 2017
Messages
5,848
Reaction score
33,424
Location
Nottinghamshire England
Great pictures and start so far and thanks for sharing all these, very nice indeed!
 
OP
ESH

ESH

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 6, 2018
Messages
898
Reaction score
1,034
Location
IL
Appreciate all the comments! Can’t wait to get this up, running, everything moved over from my 90 and hopefully quickly re stabilized. I’ve no concerns with moving everything, but will have to monitor all the water parameters closer to account for any changes with a larger volume sized tank. The good thing is in My current setup, with its sump, Refugium and frag tank I’m up to around 140 gallons before any rock and sand displacement so it won’t be too much of a change.
 
OP
ESH

ESH

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 6, 2018
Messages
898
Reaction score
1,034
Location
IL
Some progress!
First, when I moved into my house, we liked the house, didnt like the wall paper and I thought o itll be easy to take down. It hasn't been, royal PIA actually, and so part of the deal with setting up the bigger tank was me taking down all my kitchens wallpaper, and repainting. I can happily say thats done, and it took me the better of this month. Now on to getting this built!

Fist, I picked up 2 65 gallon containers to upgrade and build out my mixing station. I'll use the station and run a line from the basement to the display tank. No more buckets to haul! $120some dollars from Farm and fleet. wish I went there for these vs the 30gallon ones I got from a tractor supply store that I currently have. Only a $20 or $30 price difference, plus they were running a $10 gift card deal for every $100 spent.


Electrician came in today. The living room wires needed to be redone, as the outlet for the tank was connected with all the others, where previously the wall switch controlled plug in devices, now this particular one has its own dedicated 20amp circuit. Debated on using a GFCI, and decided not to. I travel a lot, and did not want this getting in the way of things. The tank will have a grounding probe.
So the display tank will power 4 lights, and 3 powerheads in the tank.

And added another 20amp circuit for the basement sump room, again opted against the GFCI as per the electricians recommendation. Wires were able to be pulled through the conduit where the house sump pump plugs into, so had this not been explained to me by the electrician I would have thought he just tied into that one. Pretty cool to see all the tricks they have for pulling wire through conduit and figuring out how everything is tied together.

Breaker box


More plumbing parts arrived! BRS sells metric to standard PVC conversion fittings, the trick is they don't sell metric couplings. No clue why, and it took me a few weeks to find a place who sold them. Turns out you can buy them directly from coral vue. I picked up some 25, and 32mm couplings, some 32mm pipe, and a few extra conversion fittings. Always good to have 1 or two extra on hand.


Last update for today. The tanks been sitting in my garage,it keeps getting colder, and I was able to use the crate that the tank came in to build a ramp up a few steps, allowing me to roll the tank into the house. Definitely wasn't easy, and there were a few o sh$$ moments, but in the end I managed to get the tank in the house myself. Definitely going to have to find help when its time to lift the tank on the stand, already got a few posts on local boards to see if this can get done this weekend or not.

effective weight balancing act here and a stuck wheel saved the dolly and the tank. Those suction cups were very useful for lifting the tank and having a free hand to move the dolly. Kicking it also helped :)


The crate ramp. Tank is 370, I weigh 215 and jumped on it a bunch to make sure it was solid enough, found a few weak points and reinforced before moving the tank up the ramp.

Sitting in the hallway waiting to get lifted on the stand


Cant wait to get this on the stand, and start plumbing it all together! and I might have to make a video of me crying while cutting holes through these hardwood floors, in the end it'll be worth it. The electrician simply recommended if I ever move and take the tank with me, to call them and the'll install a few floor outlets to cover up the holes.
 
OP
ESH

ESH

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 6, 2018
Messages
898
Reaction score
1,034
Location
IL
Tank is on the stand!

Maneuvering through the kitchen

Into the living room

& Up on the stand


time to go buy drill bits and start doing some plumbing!
 
OP
ESH

ESH

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 6, 2018
Messages
898
Reaction score
1,034
Location
IL
More updates today! Started work on the plumbing, starting with the tank.

The drain lines went in fine, but the first issue I ran into was when I was screwing the return line in. The bulkhead that Red Sea has on these tanks is pretty strange. It appears that its a 1 piece bulkhead, oval race track shaped, with 3 fittings, siliconed to the bottom of the tank, with 3 screw on rings holding it down underneath the tank. Also, once you screw these pipes in, they are very hard to reverse out. If I ever have to move the tank, I will likely have to buy new pipes, as its likely I will break at least 1 of these. If I break the fitting in the overflow, I've no clue how to fix it other than having to cut the silicone and completely remove the overflow chamber. Hopefully the tank can stay in place for some time...

Anyways, the issue I ran into was while I was screwing the fittings in, I didn't inspect all the O Rings... and then later found out that the return line O ring had cracks in. Luckily, I found this out early on, as the first thing I did was a leak test, pouring water into the overflow chamber to make sure I had a good seal, which immediately showed me where the issue was, as the return line started leaking. Took me a few minutes to figure out why. At first I didn't think I screwed it in enough, and eventually I took a risk, used a vice grip connected to the top of the pipe, gave it a good twist, and was able to get the pipe out without breaking it. The instructions for installing these appear to show a hand twisting them on under neath the tank. That works for install, but does not work for uninstalling as the pipe sticking out under the tank is all thread. Above the tank, on the return line the threading is minimal, and with the right tool you can reach past most of it. The 2 drain pipes do not have threading on the top

The factory pipes are thin. The threading on the couplings is also thin. Any bit of pressure on it put a dent in the pipe and threads. Luckily, I was smart enough not to smash the grip on and got the pipe to break free enough where I could spin it out. Spinning it out, I noticed that the O Ring was cracked. Disappointing to see this come from the factory like that. Always inspect your O rings before installing.

Being this close to the holidays and a weekend, I knew I couldn't get anything soon, so my first stop of the day was to an automotive store to see if they had any O Rings. I was able to find a pack of different sized o Rings, and the one I used was only slightly thicker, but basically the same diameter.



Once fixed, I got the pipe back in, did another leak test, and things were looking good! Next up, drilling through my hardwood floors!
 
OP
ESH

ESH

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 6, 2018
Messages
898
Reaction score
1,034
Location
IL
Before I get to drilling the floors, I also measured out the lighting placement, and installed 2 of the XR30 G4 pros. They are each 2" from their center to the edge of the overflow. The other 2 lights will be about 14" away. I am using the RMS kit, with the medium sized extension arm. This has the lights more towards the back of the tank, however my thought is that this will allow me to put lower light LPS up front, SPS towards the middle and back of the tank. Also in the picture, is the duel return, random flow generator. Very easy to install this one, and you do not need the extra $7 locline piece. I got this direct from the manufacture, ordered on a saturday and it was here Monday afternoon. Awesome customer service!

Since I'm not building a canopy for the tank, I'm using ecotechs eyeball saver kit, aka diffusers.



I'll have 2 more XR30's coming off of my 90 once I do the tank transfer. Best part about the 2 I put on was finding people who where getting out of the hobby so I could pick up some awesome used lighting and save some cash!
 
OP
ESH

ESH

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 6, 2018
Messages
898
Reaction score
1,034
Location
IL
This next part had me scared. I think I've spent the last week looking up hardwood floor This Old House repair videos on Youtube. Once I saw enough, I was convinced that drilling the floors wasn't going to give me a heart attack.

Step 1, test place the drains, and mark where I need to drill. In the photo, you can see a metric coupling purchased from coral vue, with a metric to standard conversion fitting underneath. This gave me an idea of where the pipes will go.

I double checked alignment, and verified the board length, made sure the tank was square to one of the boards so if I ever had to replace it, I can take the old board out and put a new one in, sand and stain.
The big unknown, was where this spot aligned with the basement floor joists. Time to drill a pilot hole.

The first time I did this, I couldn't even see where it went through. I forgot that the hardwood was 3/4", and the subfloor is also 3/4". So I found a dowel rod and poked it through. Back to the basement!

Success!!! This made me really happy. The center of the first hole was about 5" from one of the joists, allowing me to get 2 more holes drilled around it. I need 4 total. 2x for drain, 1 for return, and a forth for the water change line.

Got everything taped off for the first 2 holes.


Here goes nothing! The next 3 show a video cutting through the hardwood. If you click on the photos, it will bring you to my Flikr album and you can watch the video. I can't figure out how to directly link the video from Flikr.
IMG_1234 by E, on Flickr
Cutting the subfloor
IMG_1235 by E, on Flickr
Success!
IMG_1236 by E, on Flickr

The wife even said, that worked out better than she expected. Good sign!
Got the rest of the holes drilled


Here is the factory red sea reefer xxl 750 plumbing. I kept this, because of red sea's metric and screw on fittings. Other red sea tanks have different fittings, however I couldn't figure out what parts I needed to screw in which also had enough pipe I could cut, add a coupling and conversion. So to keep things simple, and easier to return to stock, I left this as is. I've read mixed reviews on the valve, but am keeping it for now. I have a 1" gate valve already in case this one doesn't work out. It looks like I could cut before the 90 bend, add a coupling, converter, then turn the standard PVC downto the basement. There isn't much pipe between the 90 bend and the valve. There is after it, so I could open up the valve, cut after it, do the conversion and then the gate valve. I kept these upstairs vs downstairs so I can make the adjustments right at the front of the tank and hear how the tank sounds right in the living room.

Back one is for the return, had to be cut further away due to a joist. Middle 2 are for the drains. Front one will be for a line from my water change station to the tank. Holes don't currently perfectly alinge, though don't let the pictures fool you they are pretty darn close, I can either slightly angle them or I'll have to move the stand over slightly, but otherwise this turned out awesome!


I'm not sure how the water fill line is going to look yet. Likely just a flex tube line pulled through, sort of like a python syphon kit, and kept under the stand coiled up when not in use.


Time to drink a beer or 2!
 
Last edited:

Whip

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 22, 2018
Messages
128
Reaction score
294
Congratulations on the tank!

I just got an XXL 750 too and was wondering if you would share where you got your suction cups, specs, and how they performed? I have the same task to perform in a few days.

I bought the same furniture dollies at HD. Hoping they are up to the task.

ETA: I wish I had a basement! Looks awesome!
 
OP
ESH

ESH

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 6, 2018
Messages
898
Reaction score
1,034
Location
IL
Congratulations on the tank!

I just got an XXL 750 too and was wondering if you would share where you got your suction cups, specs, and how they performed? I have the same task to perform in a few days.

I bought the same furniture dollies at HD. Hoping they are up to the task.

ETA: I wish I had a basement! Looks awesome!
These are the suction cups I used. I found them searching through R2R tank move posts. Pricey investment but a worthwhile purchase. Worth the price and once you get them you can always offer to help with others tank moves. Might get you free frags!!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007IA1D9C?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

For my move I Picked up 2, Worked great. To lift the tank off the Dolly’s I had 2 friends to help. One lifted from the front, myself and the other on each end. When you get the tank on the stand, don’t forget that the overflow bulk heads stick out from underneath the tank, meaning that the tank won’t slide smoothly on the stand.

The cups I used are rated for 170 or so lbs each. Tank is 370. to lift the tank safely make sure you still have a total of 3-4 people to help so that the weight gets distributed. You can lift one end of the tank with one cup, enough to get the tank off the ground and slide the dolly under. Anything other than that it’s a team effort. Please Make sure to read the suction cup instructions and test putting it on and taking off so you understand how they work. First time I put one on I accidentally hit the pressure release valve, luckily it was still on the ground.

Hope this helps and good luck with your lift!
 

Whip

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 22, 2018
Messages
128
Reaction score
294
These are the suction cups I used. I found them searching through R2R tank move posts. Pricey investment but a worthwhile purchase. Worth the price and once you get them you can always offer to help with others tank moves. Might get you free frags!!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007IA1D9C?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

For my move I Picked up 2, Worked great. To lift the tank off the Dolly’s I had 2 friends to help. One lifted from the front, myself and the other on each end. When you get the tank on the stand, don’t forget that the overflow bulk heads stick out from underneath the tank, meaning that the tank won’t slide smoothly on the stand.

The cups I used are rated for 170 or so lbs each. Tank is 370. to lift the tank safely make sure you still have a total of 3-4 people to help so that the weight gets distributed. You can lift one end of the tank with one cup, enough to get the tank off the ground and slide the dolly under. Anything other than that it’s a team effort. Please Make sure to read the suction cup instructions and test putting it on and taking off so you understand how they work. First time I put one on I accidentally hit the pressure release valve, luckily it was still on the ground.

Hope this helps and good luck with your lift!
Awesome! Thanks for taking the time to share (with so much detail). This was a tremendous help!
 
OP
ESH

ESH

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 6, 2018
Messages
898
Reaction score
1,034
Location
IL
Plumbing is coming along. Its like Im putting together a puzzle trying to figure out the right pipe lengths, placement and correct fittings.

Test fitting in the basement. Return line is 1.5", and then right before it goes through the floor is reduced to 3/4" due to the tank coming with a 3/4" return line. Once upstairs, it will have a flex tube connection. The drain lines are both hard plumbed.

Pipes connected to the tank upstairs

Water change station test fitted. I picked up a few water heater drain pans to put under these, and will have to prop the tanks up on bricks. These drain pans will get plumbed together, and then routed to the floor drain. Hopefully never needed, but I figure I can run the RODI waste water line into this, and also it at least routes any potential leaks to the drain.


Once the water change station is up and running, I can start making enough RODI water to fill the tank and test out the plumbing.
 
OP
ESH

ESH

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 6, 2018
Messages
898
Reaction score
1,034
Location
IL
RODI station setup! time to fill the tanks up!
 
Get Fish & Corals directly for the suppliers
OP
ESH

ESH

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 6, 2018
Messages
898
Reaction score
1,034
Location
IL
RODI water change station complete and plumbed in! I am using a Panworld 100Px to pump the water upstairs.



Sump leak test, check! Verified that the sump holds 40 gallons, as advertised.


Abyzz A200 pump test, check! It works! I had it set to 70% on the test. Not sure what the flow rate will be, I dont have anything set to monitor and will have to play around with things.

Pump chamber holds about 7 to 8 gallons.

Return line clamps were interesting. The bottom ratchet clamps are 3/4", ordered from BRS and fit perfecting cinched down all the way. The top 2, connected to the Red Sea fittings, didn't work with the BRS 3/4" fittings. At first I thought I got the wrong size. I sourced a different brand of 3/4" ratchet fittings from a LFS, and those work. The tube is a 3/4" inside diameter, so not sure why this worked out the way it did.
My suggestion to anyone else getting a red sea tank, order 1/2" fittings from BRS and the 3/4" so you don't have to make an extra trip.
 
Last edited:
OP
ESH

ESH

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 6, 2018
Messages
898
Reaction score
1,034
Location
IL
Decided I did want to put the stand floor board in, and cut off 3.5" from the end of it. Without even measuring, the end piece that I cut off fits in perfectly between the floor and this board. Cut once hope you get lucky! I wasn't planning to use it but will likely do so now.


Also, started filling the tank up! 140 gallons in so far, appears to be holding well!


Once last 10-20 gallons are made, I'll get that pumped in, turn the return pump on and start running the tank through some more tests. Want to make sure the sound is fine and I'm able to adjust it with the Red Sea valve, and see how the power outage test goes. If everything works out well, I'll get salt added in later this week and start moving things over. I'm well aware I'll have to take water out once I start adding in rock. The other tank won't go down immediately, so as I take rock out of that tank I can use the displaced water from this tank into the new one. At least that's the idea.
 
OP
ESH

ESH

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 6, 2018
Messages
898
Reaction score
1,034
Location
IL
Got the tank filled, salt is in and so far things are looking good. Nothings in the tank and the lights are not hooked up yet so it just looks like a black mirrored box right now. In the mean time, sump shot!


I started with 1x300 watt heater, which I thought would be fine, but after 1 day, the single heater only seemed to be able to get it up to 73f. The basement temp is sitting at around 64f. I added a second 300 watt this morning and came home to see it just over 76f.

Appears the tank is already evaping about .5 to 1 gallon a day. Looks like Im getting lots of flow through the tank, and I have the pump set at 84%. The roller mat is working well too.

Next up is to start setting up and organizing all the electrical components upstairs and in the basement, moving the additional rock I cured into the tank, and start moving everything over!

Also, once adjusted the tank is fairly quite, less a slight trickling sound and an occasional random drain surge sound. I seem to keep having to make random adjustments. Im not sure if this is normal for these tanks, or just something to do with how the sumps in the basement.
 
OP
ESH

ESH

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 6, 2018
Messages
898
Reaction score
1,034
Location
IL
Got my Life Reef Skimmer is installed. Moved this from my 90 gallon. I tested it first sitting on the bottom of the sump but the water level was to high. The Stand that I used to raise it and the skimmer pump is from the filter roller. Worked perfect!

 
OP
ESH

ESH

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 6, 2018
Messages
898
Reaction score
1,034
Location
IL
Another project from this weekend - The frag tank I have connected to my 90 gallon is going to be moved in the basement and placed next to the sump. There is just enough space on the end of the sump stand to do this, along with some extra space for me to fit my Ca Ractor and C02 tank. The frag tank is a 18 1/8" cube that I drilled and added in the XP Aqua pulsing return. The return will go into the refugium side of the sump, as will a seperate pump feeding the tank from the sump. While the Tank is slightly taller than the sump, the problem I ran into is that the sump walls are higher than where my return line is, so I had to find something to raise the tank so these lines can extend right into the sump. The solution I came up with is to use a few boards from past house projects I found lying around, cut them up with a circular saw while using salt buckets as my cutting table, screwed them together, with screws I saved from the Tank Crate :), sanded, primed and painted. The Frag tank should fit perfectly on top, and the open space beneath this can be used for storage. The stand is about 4.5" high, and I know it can hold me. I was even able to jump on it so I'm expecting it to last a while. Somehow I managed to cut that board in half well enough to make the two sides level.









I also got the rock, about 60 or so lbs I had curing for the past 2 months put in the tank, tested all the water this evening and everything is looking good. Tons of pods in the rock and I'm already seeing them all over the place. Tomorrow I'll start moving more rock from the 90 over, setup the refugium and move the frag tank over.
 

Do you use Instagram for reefing stuff? What’s your handle?

  • Yes I follow people

    Votes: 8 29.6%
  • Yes and I post reefing content

    Votes: 6 22.2%
  • No IG isn’t for me

    Votes: 12 44.4%
  • What is IG?

    Votes: 1 3.7%

Online statistics

Members online
1,909
Guests online
4,736
Total visitors
6,645
Industrial Test Systems, Inc.
Top