Parameters are ALWAYS unstable, and I need advicr

[Sharkbait19]

I have had 20+ thriving coral species in my fluval 13.5 tank, which has been up for months. Until yesterday, there were no fish at all, for over 90 days. Yet every time I tested my water, the readings were always the same (shown below). Because of how well everything seemed to be, I figured it was just my crappy API tests.
I began to worry when today, I noticed my skunk cleaner acting up and my brittle star losing legs. In a panic, I tested my water. And low and behold, the same thing was shown!

Parameters, according to the API tests, are NOT good:

pH: 8.2
kH: 214.8 ppm
Calc: 400 ppm
PO4: 2.0 ppm!
NH3: 0.50 ppm
NO2: 0 ppm
NO3: 0 ppm
__
Salinity: 1.023
Temp: 78°F

So this is not the first test that was like this. In fact, they always read this same exact way! Now I’m confused— is it the crappy API test kit? Because I have live sand, live rock, and dosed dr. Tim’s, just to be sure I had enough bacteria, and yet according to the tests, no nitrogen cycle has begun for the five month lifespan of this tank, especially seeings the same test results every time! I’ve done everything that should’ve been done to get the cycle started in the beginning, yet nothing is happening! I have 20+ thriving corals so I want to say something is wrong with the test kit. Yet with the brittle star and shrimp, I’m inclined to say I’m failing to do something...

Second issue is PO4. I have not had fish for 90 days, which meant no poop, no food, nothing that could possibly have died to produce this level of phosphates. I’ve done 30% water changes every week, even during the fallow period, just to get those numbers down! However, I’ve come to a point where I need more advice.

So clearly the natural route of dealing with this problem is out the window, and I definitely need to start going the chemical route to get the levels in check. What products do you recommend for dosing to retain a thriving (and cycled, apparently) reef? All I know is that whatever I’m doing is failing, and though everything looks alive, I’m setting up for a crash.

 

[Saltyreef]

So one problem i see is that you had no food source to start your nitrogen cycle....

Fish poop, feeding, dosing ammonia....one of these sources is needed to kick start things.

 

[Sharkbait19]

So one problem i see is that you had no food source to start your nitrogen cycle....

Fish poop, feeding, dosing ammonia....one of these sources is needed to kick start things.

Well I had fish in the beginning, but then they got velvet. So I went fallow for 90 days. There was something though to kickstart it.

 

[homer1475]

Yeah Im wondering how this tank was cycled. And I would also invest in some better test kits. API nearly always shows ammonia in a SW tank.

 

[Saltyreef]

I would highly advise to pickup some salifert test kits and start again.

Are you using 0ppm DI water?

 

[wonroc]

Dont trust tests on a small tank. those tests are questionable to begin with. if nothing is wrong dont mess with it. but if its a new uncycled tank, then get a fish and a bittle of bac.

 

[Saltyreef]

Dont trust tests on a small tank. those tests are questionable to begin with. if nothing is wrong dont mess with it. but if its a new uncycled tank, then get a fish and a bittle of bac.

LOL.

 

[Sharkbait19]

I use an RO machine for filling it. I don’t really know much specifics but I can find that out. I’m really concerned because I can see my brittle star and cleaner shrimp, both of whom I’ve grown very attached to, appear to be dying.

 

[Saltyreef]

I use an RO machine for filling it. I don’t really know much specifics but I can find that out. I’m really concerned because I can see my brittle star and cleaner shrimp, both of whom I’ve grown very attached to, appear to be dying.

If you arent supplying your tank with 0ppm DI water, its possible the phosphates are from your water, or food if feeding too much.
I would honestly just start at square one with a new set of test kits.

For phosphates i like red sea phosphate pro.
Nitrates, alk, cal and mag salifert is what i prefer.

API test kits i wouldnt touch with a 10ft fishing pole.

 

[wonroc]

you have a13g tank. just change the water and vac the sand ie clean the dang thing.

 

[Saltyreef]

you have a13g tank. just change the water and vac the sand ie clean the dang thing.

This is true but a coarse way of putting it lol.

 

[Sharkbait19]

you have a13g tank. just change the water and vac the sand ie clean the dang thing.

Um that’s exactly what I do, like all the time. I need a solution as to why “cleaning the dang thing” isn’t working.

 

[Sharkbait19]

Are there any chemicals I can dose to keep the phosphates low? I’ve been battling phosphates for as long as I can remember.

 

[Sharkbait19]

I might put these into my media baskets. Will they help?

 

[ReefPig]

I believe your phosphate of 2ppm is utter nonsense and just a bad test kit.

You know this, we know this.
So why are you immediately asking what chemicals to dump into a tiny tank?

Even if you RO wasn’t performing perfectly at zero TDS, the chance of it being 2ppm is a million to one.
If it was that high, your tank would be full of algae, literally full of green.

Come to your senses and just buy a half decent test kit before you do anything.

 

[Sharkbait19]

I believe your phosphate of 2ppm is utter nonsense and just a bad test kit.

You know this, we know this.
So why are you immediately asking what chemicals to dump into a tiny tank?

Even if you RO wasn’t performing perfectly at zero TDS, the chance of it being 2ppm is a million to one.
If it was that high, your tank would be full of algae, literally full of green.

Come to your senses and just buy a half decent test kit before you do anything.

Thanks! The only issue is—there is always a lot of algae! Every time I clean the tank, I’m scraping off a thick green coat! So, it’s not unlikely that the phosphates could be high—maybe just not that high, seeings I have a couple Euphyllia that are doing good, despite the “high phosphates”.

I really just want to throw chemicals at the problem as a precautionary measure. I agree—the API is utter garbage and needs to be replaced.

I’ve never even once considered the false reads until now, as my brittle star is dying and shrimp is on the way too. I suppose I’m panicking about this. I’m afraid that something’s wrong and am asking myself, “what if the tests are correct”?

 

[ReefPig]

I really just want to throw chemicals at the problem as a precautionary measure

Don’t ever do that. always know what you’re dealing with and formulate a plan to resolve it.

As someone else pointed out, in a 19G tank, you could do a multiple 25-50% water changes super easy, there should be no need for any chemicals.

 

[Sharkbait19]

Don’t ever do that. always know what you’re dealing with and formulate a plan to resolve it.

As someone else pointed out, in a 19G tank, you could do a multiple 25-50% water changes super easy, there should be no need for any chemicals.

I’ve tried water changes weekly, should I do it daily for a week until it becomes stable?

 

[ReefPig]

I’ve tried water changes weekly, should I do it daily for a week until it becomes stable?

No, I would suggest you buy yourself a another test kit.

You‘re misunderstanding what I’m saying.
first determine if this is an actual issue, then take action.

API test kits are terrible and not valid.
As a minimum buy yourself a salifert, or Elos.

You‘re trying to find a solution to a problem that hasn’t been confirmed.

 

[Sharkbait19]

No, I would suggest you buy yourself a another test kit.

You‘re misunderstanding what I’m saying.
first determine if this is an actual issue, then take action.

API test kits are terrible and not valid.
As a minimum buy yourself a salifert, or Elos.

You‘re trying to find a solution to a problem that hasn’t been confirmed.

No, I completely understand. But the fact that my starfish is dying doesn’t require immediate action?!