Phosphate remover

Treefer32

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 1, 2013
Messages
1,385
Reaction score
975
Location
Fargo, ND
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I got some PHOS FX resin from Marinedepot a safely rechargeable resin that has high capacity phosphate removing power. The label says it removes 10ppm in 250 gallon aquariums. I have .55692 ppm phosphates in a 300-320 gallon aquarium. However, the label doesn't say how much of the resin to use to remove small amounts of phosphates. I don't want to remove all my phosphates over night, I'm just trying to manage them. I'm doing daily water changes (5% or so) each day to lower them. I have a Hana ULR tester I just got to test them. Once I get them down to .05 - .1 ppm then I'd like to add the resin as a way to manage phosphates ongoing. I got 500 ml of the resin. So am I supposed to assume that the capacity of 500 ml of resin in 250 gallons of water is a total of 10 ppm. How much will it remove daily? Will it just bring it down to 0 in a day? Or .01 per day until 10ppm is reached?

Anyone have experience with this resin for phosphate removal?
 
OP
OP
Treefer32

Treefer32

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 1, 2013
Messages
1,385
Reaction score
975
Location
Fargo, ND
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Interesting! Yeah this claims, it does not release nitrates or phosphates like other resins. It actually looks like GFO.. It's orange and granular. I guess I'll see if it does anything, I tested my Hana ULR Phosphate checker last night before adding anything in.

So, my ICP test came in at .55692. 3-4 days later I did an 85 gallon water change. (Didn't have my tester yet.) Then did a smaller water change. I fed less Nori and less food in general. Stopped dosing Reef Energy AB+ and Reef Roids. Didn't add any additiona Micro Bacter 7. Just let things settle after the 30% water change.

Then I tested before another 85 gallon water change. (It was my first Hana Phosphate test). It came out at .66.

If I had changed out 85 /300 = 28% assuming the new RODI water was near 0 I should have gone down to .399126 ppm.

Last night was about 2 days after the large water change. The Hana Checker showed a before water change of .66. Can I assume the tester is off by: .26? Or, did my phosphates actually increase from .399 to .66 in 3 days.

I did another 85 gallon water change last night. So, .66 * .28 = Should have removed .185 = new value should be .475.
Hana Checker showed .55 or only .11 removed (a couple hours after the water change), which is a difference of .07. Could I assume my RODI water may have .07 ppm +/- .01?

Trying to get a baseline to measure whether the resin is actually doing anything and/or whether the water changes are helping or not.

I've noticed my Acans actually coming back to life. They're puffing up at night and tentacles are out. First time I've seen them do that in 1.5 years. So, I know the water changes are helping. I'm just afraid a lot of phosphates may be holed up in my rocks and leaching out.. If my Hana tester is relatively accurate.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

Reef Chemist
View Badges
Joined
Sep 5, 2014
Messages
66,527
Reaction score
62,817
Location
Arlington, Massachusetts, United States
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Orange and granular means it has imbedded GFO in the resin, which can work. Other companies sell similar imbedded GFO products.

I edit my earlier post to reflect that.

Just take it slow to start.
 
OP
OP
Treefer32

Treefer32

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 1, 2013
Messages
1,385
Reaction score
975
Location
Fargo, ND
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Orange and granular means it has imbedded GFO in the resin, which can work. Other companies sell similar imbedded GFO products.

I edit my earlier post to reflect that.

Just take it slow to start.
That's good! Whether it lives up to it's claims of having higher capacity and working faster than GFO, I'm skeptical of. My question is by slow, does that mean only use 250 ml instead of 500ml? Or use all 500 ml in the bag it came in for 24 hours then pull it out and put it back every other day or something like that?

What does slow mean?
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

Reef Chemist
View Badges
Joined
Sep 5, 2014
Messages
66,527
Reaction score
62,817
Location
Arlington, Massachusetts, United States
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
That's good! Whether it lives up to it's claims of having higher capacity and working faster than GFO, I'm skeptical of. My question is by slow, does that mean only use 250 ml instead of 500ml? Or use all 500 ml in the bag it came in for 24 hours then pull it out and put it back every other day or something like that?

What does slow mean?

Means use less than recommended until you get an understanding of what it does in your system . :)
 
OP
OP
Treefer32

Treefer32

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 1, 2013
Messages
1,385
Reaction score
975
Location
Fargo, ND
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
That's what I thought or was assuming. The instructions say to lower to desired levels then remove and leave in 0TDS RODI until needed again. That speaks to a lot of confidence that we're going to remove all your phosphates all at once, and you'll need to remove and throw back in as needed.... Seems like a bold / strong statement for the aquarium industry.

I'll see how it does after a few days. Not expecting miracles just management.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

Reef Chemist
View Badges
Joined
Sep 5, 2014
Messages
66,527
Reaction score
62,817
Location
Arlington, Massachusetts, United States
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
That's what I thought or was assuming. The instructions say to lower to desired levels then remove and leave in 0TDS RODI until needed again. That speaks to a lot of confidence that we're going to remove all your phosphates all at once, and you'll need to remove and throw back in as needed.... Seems like a bold / strong statement for the aquarium industry.

I'll see how it does after a few days. Not expecting miracles just management.

Overconfidence, I expect. lol

FWIW, you might have 50 times as much phosphate to remove that is bound to rock and sand compared to what is in the water, so removing it "all" is only a temporary measure until you deplete that potentially large reservoir.
 

Krully

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 29, 2019
Messages
284
Reaction score
308
Location
France
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hijacking this thread, is it fine to lower only phosphates or do you have to do nitrates too?
 
OP
OP
Treefer32

Treefer32

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 1, 2013
Messages
1,385
Reaction score
975
Location
Fargo, ND
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Great question, depends on the situation is the answer. My Nitrates have remained stable at 15-20. I have an algae turf scrubber that removes both nitrates and phosphates. The problem is they are removed in a fairly equal ratio with that. My Nitrates are managed and stable at 16-20. Great for 16 larger fish in the display for 2 years. Phosphates have risen above what my algae scrubber can manage. Be it leaching from sand and rocks, my sump, who knows. Phosphates come from food usually. So, that's when we need to use more drastic phosphate removers like GFO to keep just phosphates in check. In my humble opinion nitrates are significantly easier to keep in check with natural things like scrubbers and refugiums. Phosphates can be a bane. I'm just glad my display matured without filling with algae, oh it went through a nasty Briopsis phase for 6 months. I beat that and my scrubber took over not allowing it to come back.

So, a long answer to say, yes, phosphates can be removed without removing nitrates safely. If nitrates are remaining consistent and stable.
 

A worm with high fashion and practical utility: Have you ever kept feather dusters in your reef aquarium?

  • I currently have feather dusters in my tank.

    Votes: 64 36.8%
  • Not currently, but I have had feather dusters in my tank in the past.

    Votes: 59 33.9%
  • I have not had feather dusters, but I hope to in the future.

    Votes: 25 14.4%
  • I have no plans to have feather dusters in my tank.

    Votes: 26 14.9%
  • Other.

    Votes: 0 0.0%
Back
Top