I know my tank always had the same readings for like 6 months, then hell broke loose.Ya I need to find one. The 2 I go to get the same readings I do everytime
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I know my tank always had the same readings for like 6 months, then hell broke loose.Ya I need to find one. The 2 I go to get the same readings I do everytime
I thought dinos and cyano were due to low nitrates and phosphates. why would feeding more trigger those two?Do NOT feed more. It will quickly elevate phosphates and eventually nitrates and even trigger ammonia spikes plus cyano or dino. Your phos will climb slowly. I have a dino recipe for you should signs start to appear.
For now, you can dose 1ml of liquid bacteria per 10 gallons during the day and dose .5ml of hydrogen peroxide at night per 10 gals over the next 10 days. This will help control the potential for dine. Have some cerityh, margarita, astrea and trochus snails in tank to assist with any cyano and dino potential.
What test kits are you using ?
With dino, the problem often arises when we try to bring cleanliness it to the limit, in order to improve its appearance and color of corals. They tend to occur suddenly when the aquarium water reaches an extraordinary cleanliness, in which most microorganisms perishes for lack of food. With no other organisms that can stop them, this type of dinoflagellate can multiply so fast that when we realize it's late and we will find an aquarium full of brown and ochre slime suffocating fish and invertebrates. These dinoflagellates possess chloroplasts enabling them to synthesize their own food even under a minimal amount of light.I thought dinos and cyano were due to low nitrates and phosphates. why would feeding more trigger those two?