Ok, dumb question. So if you have algae you have phosphorus in your tank but it tests zero because it’s tied up in your rock and substrate. So how do you know when to change out the gfo?
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Ok, dumb question. So if you have algae you have phosphorus in your tank but it tests zero because it’s tied up in your rock and substrate. So how do you know when to change out the gfo?
The amount of phosphate that remains attached to rock and sand surfaces is a function of the concentration in the water. More in the water means more on the calcium carbonate surfaces.
The amount of phosphate bound to rock and sand when the levels in the water are stable and undetectable with a good kit are quite low and likely not important.
If you do not detect phosphate in the water, I'd remove the GFO and see what happens. Too low of phosphate can be worse than too high.
No one?
I’ve been dealing with this for a bit. Think maybe it’s Calothrix. Only on the rock. Doesn’t get very tall. Just a fuzzy film
I have a hippo and just increased my snail population. How is a algae problem a least problem?I don't think this is a water chemistry problem. More of a pest problem, unfortunately.
It is possible to have pest algae with low nutrient levels. In the ocean where these algae live, nutrients are lower than our tanks.I have a hippo and just increased my snail population. How is a algae problem a least problem?
I put in some large margarita snails. Hopefully they can make a dentIt is possible to have pest algae with low nutrient levels. In the ocean where these algae live, nutrients are lower than our tanks.
Like @LiveFreeAndReef said, an herbivore might be your solution.
How is a algae problem a least problem?
Looks like a cyanobacteria.
I’ve been dealing with this for a bit. Think maybe it’s Calothrix. Only on the rock. Doesn’t get very tall. Just a fuzzy film
That’s what I’ve been thinking but it’s only on the rock not on the sand. That’s why I’ve been trying to pin it down. I’ve seen cyno can be green so I’ve been on the fence with a chemclean treatment. I picked up some Mexican turbo snails who are helping. There is some nice coralline algae under that messLooks like a cyanobacteria.
My Mexican turbos seem to be put off by cyanobacteria, at least if there is any on the Ulva I grow (I now give the alga a cold tap water rinse before feeding the snails). Yours are maybe plowing through the cyanobacteria, though I suppose they could be eating the stuff.That’s what I’ve been thinking but it’s only on the rock not on the sand. That’s why I’ve been trying to pin it down. I’ve seen cyno can be green so I’ve been on the fence with a chemclean treatment. I picked up some Mexican turbo snails who are helping. There is some nice coralline algae under that mess
Thanks, that’s a real good idea. It doesn’t come off easily with a toothbrush so that adds to my reservations with using it.My Mexican turbos seem to be put off by cyanobacteria, at least if there is any on the Ulva I grow (I now give the alga a cold tap water rinse before feeding the snails). Yours are maybe plowing through the cyanobacteria, though I suppose they could be eating the stuff.
Cyanobacteria tends to grow in slimey films that do not attach very strongly to surfaces. I would hazard a generalization that most algae adhere strongly.
With regard to the effectiveness of Chemiclean, remove a good size sample of the slime or small piece of slime covered rock and place it in a clear container of tank water. Treat this specimen with the recommended dose of Chemiclean to see what happens. Illuminate and if possible aerate the sample to duplicate aquarium conditions. We want to determine if it dies from Chemiclean not darkness, though you can do that experiment too. If Chemiclean has any effect, you should see it in 24 hours.