So if you look at the API phosphate test very carefully, and read the instructions, you will realise the API test does not give a number. It gives a range, the first range for example is from zero to .25, the next range is from .25 to .5..... get it? So I keep my phosphate at .1, which is just not possible to test on the API tester, because it doesn't work that way, it will just show .25. I'm sorry its more affordable, but I hope you can understand its giving you the wrong info.
And I didn't say to wait, we are not trying to aggravate you, ok? The correct way to remove high phosphate is with gfo... waiting will do nothing.
If phosphate is leaching out of the rocks, this is testable in a seperate bucket. Mix some new saltwater in a bucket, and add a rock from the tank, and start testing, you will see the phosphate level increase if the rocks are actually leaching phosphate. Then you know where it comes from, so you can act, there are many types of phosphate removers to use with different tank set ups.
Water change will lower phosphate temporarily until it leaches out of the rocks again, it will be super expensive to try to remove phosphate from the system with water changes. So basically water changes don't work to remove phosphate.
But the very first thing is to throw that API phosphate tester in the garbage its leading you the wrong way. Honestly hanna is the very best phosphate tester in the market, its worth saving for. Salifert is a good brand also, but I never tried their phosphate tester.
Good luck