Plate Coral and Anemone problem

[Lisa Cain]

What test kits are you using? Don't get api, get salifert tests, they are reasonably priced and accurate.
If you want more accuracy get hanna, although i wouldn't recommend calcium and magnesium in the hanna.
Now which of the pictures is the supposedly sick nem? Is the one with te arrows the healty nem picture?
Nems split when they are stressed or because they can, i found my forrest fire bta splits constantly.
If you have different bta nems in one tank it could be nem warfare too.

How long have you had the bta? what lights do you have? How old is the tank?

Above is the Anemone. I have had it for about 1 month. It split and then kept hiding until it resurfaced. The other split smaller anemone most have died because it disppeared underneath a rock and now I no longer see it. It used to be pink as in the picture below with the big arrow and red line. You can see it peeking from underneath a rock. the other anemones with real bubble tips have not changed, only this aneome. I used the Imagitarium Calcium Test Kit for the calcium. I will retest the other parameters today when I purchase other test kits.. I have an original older model Red Sea Max 250 (66 gallons) with the original with T5 lighting.

Red Sea MAX 250 ultimate all-in-one, Plug & Play, coral reef aquarium System.​

Sometimes I worry that the lights will blow out. I will have to replace the lights. The temperature trys to go to 82 degrees but we place a bottle of frozen water in the tank to keep it at 80%. I like the tank but it is old. It also has a helpful protein skimmer.

https://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/features/red-sea-max-250-review/​

 

[BryanM]

Above is the Anemone. I have had it for about 1 month. It split and then kept hiding until it resurfaced. The other split smaller anemone most have died because it disppeared underneath a rock and now I no longer see it.

Nems do all sorts of funny things in tanks. They do prefer stable older systems generally.

My rainbow split, moved, hopped, wandered, one half finally died after months of trying hard, the other has now split two more times and for the love of the dang universe they love to be at the top of my waterline near a powerhead.

I wouldn't be too worried about the split that died, its sad but I think it happens quite often.

I wasn't in the hobby when T5's were popular, but if its adding that much heat and you're worried about it blowing out, I might start looking for its replacement, and LED's are generally much cooler heat temps wise.

 

[Kmst80]

Above is the Anemone. I have had it for about 1 month. It split and then kept hiding until it resurfaced. The other split smaller anemone most have died because it disppeared underneath a rock and now I no longer see it. It used to be pink as in the picture below with the big arrow and red line. You can see it peeking from underneath a rock. the other anemones with real bubble tips have not changed, only this aneome. I used the Imagitarium Calcium Test Kit for the calcium. I will retest the other parameters today when I purchase other test kits.. I have an original older model Red Sea Max 250 (66 gallons) with the original with T5 lighting.

Red Sea MAX 250 ultimate all-in-one, Plug & Play, coral reef aquarium System.​

Sometimes I worry that the lights will blow out. I will have to replace the lights. The temperature trys to go to 82 degrees but we place a bottle of frozen water in the tank to keep it at 80%. I like the tank but it is old. It also has a helpful protein skimmer.

https://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/features/red-sea-max-250-review/​

As Brian mentioned, nems prefer stability.
T5s are perfectly fine, I just reverted back to t5s and my corals/ nems are happy. It's more natural light too, not so blue. T5 bulbs should be changed every 2 years though, they loose output at this time.
If you have big temp swings that'll stress corals and nems. Anything not stable will stress them. They only can handle so much stress before you see bleaching or receeding tissue. By the time this happens it's often to late, the damage was done weeks/month earlier not days.

I would keep an eye on the nem and see what's happening. Meanwhile work on stability.
If your t5s heat up the water to much get a fan blowing across the light/water.
If your bulbs are older than 2 years start replacing them, not all at once, one one week the next the next week or you shock the inhabitants with to much light.

 

[Lisa Cain]

As Brian mentioned, nems prefer stability.
T5s are perfectly fine, I just reverted back to t5s and my corals/ nems are happy. It's more natural light too, not so blue. T5 bulbs should be changed every 2 years though, they loose output at this time.
If you have big temp swings that'll stress corals and nems. Anything not stable will stress them. They only can handle so much stress before you see bleaching or receeding tissue. By the time this happens it's often to late, the damage was done weeks/month earlier not days.

I would keep an eye on the nem and see what's happening. Meanwhile work on stability.
If your t5s heat up the water to much get a fan blowing across the light/water.
If your bulbs are older than 2 years start replacing them, not all at once, one one week the next the next week or you shock the inhabitants with to much light.

Thank you, I am now focusing on water chemistry and stability. Is going from 82 to 80 a big temperature swing. For some reason my water temperature is always 82. I place 1-2 water bottles in to keep it at 80. I will have to see where I can order the T5 bulbs for the Red Sea Max 250. I know that the lights are older than 2 years. Where did you order your T5 bulbs? I saw one sight that sold parts. I am also cleaning the sand more and I did a 10 percent water change yesterday and plan to do another today. Is there anything as changing water to much?

 

[BryanM]

Thank you, I am now focusing on water chemistry and stability. Is going from 82 to 80 a big temperature swing. For some reason my water temperature is always 82. I place 1-2 water bottles in to keep it at 80. I will have to see where I can order the T5 bulbs for the Red Sea Max 250. I know that the lights are older than 2 years. Where did you order your T5 bulbs? I saw one sight that sold parts. I am also cleaning the sand more and I did a 10 percent water change yesterday and plan to do another today. Is there anything as changing water to much?

BRS, Saltwateraquarium.com, sure there are others as well.

I still might look at switching to LEDs and lower heat, assuming those T5's are hot.

 

[Kmst80]

Thank you, I am now focusing on water chemistry and stability. Is going from 82 to 80 a big temperature swing. For some reason my water temperature is always 82. I place 1-2 water bottles in to keep it at 80. I will have to see where I can order the T5 bulbs for the Red Sea Max 250. I know that the lights are older than 2 years. Where did you order your T5 bulbs? I saw one sight that sold parts. I am also cleaning the sand more and I did a 10 percent water change yesterday and plan to do another today. Is there anything as changing water to much?

Just realised 82 is 27.7°C. That is hot. General recommendation is around 25.5°c(77.9f).
Look for Ati or Gieseman bulbs, you should have plenty of choice in the US.
I had to order my unit in germany since t5 is non existent in Australia.

 

[themcnertney]

Hello, My saltwater tank has been doing well, I went out of town, and my son did a fabolous job of taking care of my tank. However, two problems have arisen.

1. My plate coral appears to be dying? Is there any hop e for it?
2. My anemone was pink and green, however now it is brown and losing it pink. Has anyone experienced this before. If so what is the cause?

Thanks for any information that you can provide. I have pictures of what they used to look like and that they look like now. Tank

Red Sea Max 250​

65 gallon aquarium.
The salinity is 1.024-1.025, I just did a water change (12-15%) and need to check the phosphate levels and calcium, however, they were okay about 6 days ago. I may go buy a testing kit a take a water sample to the store in a few minutes. The other bubble tip anemones and rock anemones are fine. It is simple this bubble rose with the lone tentacles. It originally split. It's baby kept trying to hide and now is has disappeared. This one also tried to hide under a rock, however it moved to the top and now it looks sick.

Sunlight and alot of big fish area couple of visible things. I'd look to focus more on stablitly of your number even if wrong vs trying to correct via targeted numbers.

 

[mcarroll]

I am now focusing on water chemistry and stability. Is going from 82 to 80 a big temperature swing. For some reason my water temperature is always 82. I place 1-2 water bottles in to keep it at 80.

82 is not high, but IMO that is an unnecessary swing....just stabilize it at 82.

Just realised 82 is 27.7°C. That is hot. General recommendation is around 25.5°c(77.9f).

92º is hot, but what is "too hot"? Not sure anyone has experimented with "high temperature" reefing.

Corals seem to do fine in the wild up in the low-to-mid 90º's (eg waters around Palau's reefs are pretty hot from reports I've seen). Heat stress/bleaching starts to be triggered at/above those levels, but that's due to nutrient limitation, not heat per se.

I've certainly grown tankfuls of SPS at about 82º...absolutely no issue. It would be interesting to see what a 92º tank would look like.

 

[Lisa Cain]

82 is not high, but IMO that is an unnecessary swing....just stabilize it at 82.


92º is hot, but what is "too hot"? Not sure anyone has experimented with "high temperature" reefing.

Corals seem to do fine in the wild up in the low-to-mid 90º's (eg waters around Palau's reefs are pretty hot from reports I've seen). Heat stress/bleaching starts to be triggered at/above those levels, but that's due to nutrient limitation, not heat per se.

I've certainly grown tankfuls of SPS at about 82º...absolutely no issue. It would be interesting to see what a 92º tank would look like.

Thanks for your input

 

[Lisa Cain]

Sunlight and alot of big fish area couple of visible things. I'd look to focus more on stablitly of your number even if wrong vs trying to correct via targeted numbers.

Thanks for your input

 

[Lisa Cain]

82 is not high, but IMO that is an unnecessary swing....just stabilize it at 82.


92º is hot, but what is "too hot"? Not sure anyone has experimented with "high temperature" reefing.

Corals seem to do fine in the wild up in the low-to-mid 90º's (eg waters around Palau's reefs are pretty hot from reports I've seen). Heat stress/bleaching starts to be triggered at/above those levels, but that's due to nutrient limitation, not heat per se.

I've certainly grown tankfuls of SPS at about 82º...absolutely no issue. It would be interesting to see what a 92º tank would look like.

Thanks for your input.

 

[Lisa Cain]

Just realised 82 is 27.7°C. That is hot. General recommendation is around 25.5°c(77.9f).
Look for Ati or Gieseman bulbs, you should have plenty of choice in the US.
I had to order my unit in germany since t5 is non existent in Australia.

Thanks for your input