Please help with lens selection

[lost66]

I have Canon 90D which has EF lens mount. This camera has APS-C sensor (22.3 x 14.9mm). I really would love to start taking pictures of my tank. I have 18 feet of glass in total so plenty of life to capture. I am move video person, macro is something completely new for me and honestly I know I won't use this technique somewhere outside reefing. I need some help with lens selection.

The setup and usage:
- My tank is peninsulas style, glass. Life I will capture max 20" from the glass.
- I will not use any "from above" shots
- I will use tripod
- size, weight or any external look doesn't matter
- I would like to capture small items such 1-3" corals, crabs, snails, sponges, etc. Something bigger I think I can use other lens I have

I am very limited in budged so as cheap as possible (possible up to $100?) . I assume used, old lens with full manual operation and this is fine with me. It doesn't have to be EF mount, there are cheap adapters from M42 for instance which I assume I can use.

My knowledge about macro is minimal, I know basic concepts of photography though, I am not afraid to use M mode.
Please correct me if I am wrong:
- a lens with around 100mm is idea for me?
- the bigger magnification the better, right? So ideal is 1:1 but most of the lens I found have 1:4, maybe 1:3. So the smaller magnification and with a bigger minimal working distance I am loosing what is important, right? For instance 1:4 and minimal working distance 3ft I will not see polyps?

I think the only place I can go for a lens is ebay but there are so many lens there and some of them don't even have full specification. Does anyone have some time and propose any ebay listing for "Buy it now", NA only criteria or at least exact models I should look for?

 

[BroccoliFarmer]

Ever think about just an orange filter?

 

[lost66]

Ever think about just an orange filter?

I use such filters but macro lens and something which helps with colors is something completely different, right?

 

[BroccoliFarmer]

I use such filters but macro lens and something which helps with colors is something completely different, right?

They are. Apologies for answering not your question. Most people asking for help here are trying to filter out the blues and it was a reflex reaction trying to help

 

[Sean Clark]

I have a Cannon 5D and use a 100mm Macro. The gear is far more capable than I am. I have managed to get some nice shots but it does take lots of attempts to catch a good one of anything moving in the water.

Some people turn all of their flow off to get good LPS pics.

Edit: I usually use a Hoya yellow filter too.

 

[Tathamet]

Hopefully someone can help you out here.

I’m a terrible photographer but I have a 105mm Nikkor macro lens and even with 1x magnification and a 1:1 macro reproduction ratio I still have a hard time getting images of polyps that aren’t blurry. I think I’d at least try to go for that or something with a bit more magnification.

Though there are two issues that aren’t helping me here. the tank has a bowed front so the distortion really doesn’t help. And second I don’t have a tripod or rail to stabilize and focus well enough for this type of photography yet.

Best of luck on finding something that works for you! Don’t think I’ve ever seen a macro lens even close to $100. The macro lens hoods are more in that price range from what I’ve seen haha.

edit: as Sean said “the gear is far more capable than I am” lol

 

[maroun.c]

Focal length of a lens will depend how far subjects you are shooting are. You mention 18nft of glass total which i presume is the total length of the 3 glass panes of ur tank but that doesn't really tell how far your subjects are.
Yet your budget is the most limiting factor and as mentioned won't get near a used macro lens. Also are you only shooting macro of still subjects or do you want ro shoot full tank shots and fish shots .
With a 100 macro lense you will have to move way back to take a full tank shot, also focusing isn't as fast for fish shots and fish will have tonbe a bit back in the tank to be captured without being cut.
At your budget the best lenses to look at keeping in mind the following:
-am not familiar with older lenses with full manual operation as I feel they are very limiting with moving subjects in a tank.
-what are the other lenses u have that you mentioned as that would affect the choice for an additional lense.
- I would go with the 50mm1.8 or if ur lucky And find a 85mm 1.8 used at price range indicated. Believe used might be possible as many are selling lenses now and moving to mirorless.
Another choice I have shot with for years is the 17-50 tamron for canon, i used the one for nikon bit bekieve it woudl eb the same quality (sigma makes one as wel).
You get the convenience of a zoom, 2.8 quality glass although a bit in a plasticky build.compared to canon lenses . Yer image quality is amazing at the price. You will need to be close to your subject and crop in post processing if you want closer shots. I jave posted hundreds of pics using this lense try a search on my username and 17-50 maybe or most of my pices from 2014-2018 were taken with it.
Again your existing lenses will dictate the choice.

 

[lost66]

3 glass panes of ur tank but that doesn't really tell how far your subjects are.

Yes, total 3 sides and the target will be max 20" from the glass.

Also are you only shooting macro of still subjects or do you want ro shoot full tank shots and fish shots .

I would like to capture small items such 1-3" corals, crabs, snails, sponges, etc. Something bigger I think I can use other lens I have.

I am not looking for super quality lens. Really, I want to be cheap here. I am aware lens are the key and they are expensive for a reason. The most expensive lens I have is Sigma 18-35mm F1.8 Art DC HSM and it is my primary lens for video. Sensor in 90D has a crop factor x1.6.

If to take a picture of a fluffy acro, fighting hermit crabs, blenny chilling on a gsp I need to spend like $400 I won't take any picture because such lens is just out of my budget. I read somewhere here people use very old lens and I see on Ebay they go as cheap as ~$50 but I really struggle to filter out garbage and also I don't really know what parameters (focal length, magnification and any other?) should I look for giving described shooting conditions.

 

[lost66]

After hours of investigation and browse through unknown I ended up with Tamron SP AF 90mm F/2.8 Di Macro Lens (model 272EE). $150 used on Ebay. Parameters are similar to lens people post pictures on this forum. I am aware that there are good and bad lens and basic parameters on paper are only filter out what I don't want and the glass and build quality is the key.
Lens should be here in 10 days, I will post my first pictures as soon as I have them

Thanks everyone for the input!

 

[exnisstech]

When I shot with Minolta later Sony the Tamron 90 was my go to lens for macro and portraits. That seems like a good price also. Typically the dslr body is the least expensive item. It's all about the glass!

 

[maroun.c]

After hours of investigation and browse through unknown I ended up with Tamron SP AF 90mm F/2.8 Di Macro Lens (model 272EE). $150 used on Ebay. Parameters are similar to lens people post pictures on this forum. I am aware that there are good and bad lens and basic parameters on paper are only filter out what I don't want and the glass and build quality is the key.
Lens should be here in 10 days, I will post my first pictures as soon as I have them

Thanks everyone for the input!

Tamron 90 mm is a fine lende for macros. Its great you ended up with it and am sure ull get quality shots with it.

 

[EugeneVan]

I used Tamron 90 mm for taking these shots.

 

[lost66]

Lens came 2 days earlier! Focus ring is super smooth so I think previous owners really cared about camera gear. As stated in the ebay auction lens didn't have a lens cap so front of the lens is dusty and I haven't really cleaned any lens so I left it as is for now till I learn how to clean and don't break anything.
I am surprised about magnification. I think that 1:1 magnification is the really deal here.

Shots were made in M mode with lowest ISO possible. Manual focus, camera on tripod. Using a trigger on the camera is not an option, I gently tapped on the screen to take a shot but I think even then I felt a camera movement. Next time I will use mobile app to take a shot. My tank has combo LED and T5 and it is mostly heavy blue so I changed the white balance to 10k (maximum). I shot in raw. Pictures straight from the camera are amazing but I wanted to boost some things in Lightroom and this is another huge topic I am just starting and using sliders here and there but it is not easy, I find it a kind of an art and magical skills to edit photos.

 

[exnisstech]

Those shots look great. Play around and unless you have really shaky hands a tripod isn't necessary, nor is a trigger release. I used to shoot a lot of macro crawling around on the ground shooting bugs and the only way to focus was moving the camera forward and backwards to get the subject in focus. I was shooting true 1:1 so depth of field was very shallow. Tripods are great for still objects but not required.

They sell cheap lens pens for cleaning the glass but eyeglass cleaner or even your tee shirt works lol. Lens glass will scratch but not as easily as many people say. A scratch on the inside is way worse that the outside.

 

[Fish_Fry]

Those are really nice pictures, great job. Don't be afraid of cleaning your lens. A clean microfiber cloth works great. Emphasis on the clean because you don't want to risk scratching the lens. A quick wipe usually works, but if it is really dirty you can use lens cleaner. Don't use glass cleaner without specifically checking the ingredients, there is chance that something harsh could damage the coating on the lens.

Bigger magnification is not automatically better. It allows a much closer view, but the getting the object in focus becomes a challenge. The depth of field is really small, meaning one thin band of polyp might be in focus, but all the ones in front and behind could be blurry. You also need more light the as you progress from 1:4, 1:2, 1:1, 2:1 etc.


These suggestions are too late, since you already purchased a lens. But in case someone else comes across it. If you are looking to get into marco photography on the cheap (under $100) there are 3 other ways you can do it.

1) Extension tubes - these allow you to focus at a much closer distance. You can use them with any lens, including your macro lens. You lose light and the depth of field becomes very narrow. They are usually sold in sets of 3. I have Kenko tubes in a Canon EF mount. They come in 12, 20 & 36 mm. One concern is depending on how many you stack together the area in focus might be right in front of the lens, so you might not be able to shoot far into the tank.

2) Close up filter - These screw onto the front of your existing lens. Similar to using reading glasses they help to magnify the image of things close up. Vivitar makes really inexpensive ones. I've used a Canon 500D in the past. These are great for traveling when you don't want to carry a dedicated macro lens.

3) Reverse lens - You can get a reversing adapter for about $10. It allows you to mount your lens backwards. You can also stack 2 lenses together. You can get great magnification, but the depth of field is really narrow. You'll want to use a tripod if not focusing rails to get the best image. I haven't done this but there is ton of info on the web.

Hope this helps

 

[The Ginga Ninja]

Lens came 2 days earlier! Focus ring is super smooth so I think previous owners really cared about camera gear. As stated in the ebay auction lens didn't have a lens cap so front of the lens is dusty and I haven't really cleaned any lens so I left it as is for now till I learn how to clean and don't break anything.
I am surprised about magnification. I think that 1:1 magnification is the really deal here.

Shots were made in M mode with lowest ISO possible. Manual focus, camera on tripod. Using a trigger on the camera is not an option, I gently tapped on the screen to take a shot but I think even then I felt a camera movement. Next time I will use mobile app to take a shot. My tank has combo LED and T5 and it is mostly heavy blue so I changed the white balance to 10k (maximum). I shot in raw. Pictures straight from the camera are amazing but I wanted to boost some things in Lightroom and this is another huge topic I am just starting and using sliders here and there but it is not easy, I find it a kind of an art and magical skills to edit photos.

Man these photos look great. What camera is this? I usually always recommend this lens kit:

 

[lost66]

Man these photos look great. What camera is this? I usually always recommend this lens kit:

Thanks! I use Canon 90d with Tamron SP AF 90mm F/2.8 Di Macro Lens, I shot in raw and do post in lightroom.

 

[maroun.c]

Those are really nice pictures, great job. Don't be afraid of cleaning your lens. A clean microfiber cloth works great. Emphasis on the clean because you don't want to risk scratching the lens. A quick wipe usually works, but if it is really dirty you can use lens cleaner. Don't use glass cleaner without specifically checking the ingredients, there is chance that something harsh could damage the coating on the lens.

Bigger magnification is not automatically better. It allows a much closer view, but the getting the object in focus becomes a challenge. The depth of field is really small, meaning one thin band of polyp might be in focus, but all the ones in front and behind could be blurry. You also need more light the as you progress from 1:4, 1:2, 1:1, 2:1 etc.


These suggestions are too late, since you already purchased a lens. But in case someone else comes across it. If you are looking to get into marco photography on the cheap (under $100) there are 3 other ways you can do it.

1) Extension tubes - these allow you to focus at a much closer distance. You can use them with any lens, including your macro lens. You lose light and the depth of field becomes very narrow. They are usually sold in sets of 3. I have Kenko tubes in a Canon EF mount. They come in 12, 20 & 36 mm. One concern is depending on how many you stack together the area in focus might be right in front of the lens, so you might not be able to shoot far into the tank.

2) Close up filter - These screw onto the front of your existing lens. Similar to using reading glasses they help to magnify the image of things close up. Vivitar makes really inexpensive ones. I've used a Canon 500D in the past. These are great for traveling when you don't want to carry a dedicated macro lens.

3) Reverse lens - You can get a reversing adapter for about $10. It allows you to mount your lens backwards. You can also stack 2 lenses together. You can get great magnification, but the depth of field is really narrow. You'll want to use a tripod if not focusing rails to get the best image. I haven't done this but there is ton of info on the web.

Hope this helps

Those are good suggestions but they come with sets of limitations which somehow limit them to more advanced photographers as well as some.aquarijm photography specific limitations.
Extension tubes being very limiting in subject distance will only allow one to take pics of very close corals to the glass. Focusing and DOF become very tricky. I use them a lot in specific scenario and they do add to capabilities yet in most scenarios a macro lense is the way to go.

Close up filters, most will degrade image quality, be it by the way they magnify the image or simply from the quality of the glass especially on cheaper brands. Look at it this way a 30 usd glass in front of a typically 750 -1250 usd glass won't do you any favors in terms of image quality. It will magnify your image but it'll come at a price.

Reversing lenses
Your subject distance will be very limited, focusing metering, need for flash with a now long lense In front... ive used it for insect shots but dont see it realistically an option for aquarium.macro photography .

Again this is only my opinion and while i agree that they will allow you to get magnified shots above methods won't make it very easy to get good pictures with aquarium moving subjects and limited lighting .

 

[maroun.c]

Lens came 2 days earlier! Focus ring is super smooth so I think previous owners really cared about camera gear. As stated in the ebay auction lens didn't have a lens cap so front of the lens is dusty and I haven't really cleaned any lens so I left it as is for now till I learn how to clean and don't break anything.
I am surprised about magnification. I think that 1:1 magnification is the really deal here.

Shots were made in M mode with lowest ISO possible. Manual focus, camera on tripod. Using a trigger on the camera is not an option, I gently tapped on the screen to take a shot but I think even then I felt a camera movement. Next time I will use mobile app to take a shot. My tank has combo LED and T5 and it is mostly heavy blue so I changed the white balance to 10k (maximum). I shot in raw. Pictures straight from the camera are amazing but I wanted to boost some things in Lightroom and this is another huge topic I am just starting and using sliders here and there but it is not easy, I find it a kind of an art and magical skills to edit photos.

Congrats,
You can spray some air on it from those canned pressured air sprays or the blower things they have for cameras to remove dust before you wipe the lense, or any service center can clean it up for you . Good shots already but watching for noise in them , high iso ???