PLS HELP 1st TIME CORAL OWNER

kileki

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Hi All! I have a 40 Gal tank that was FOWLR since November until Friday when I added this leather toadstool.

It looks like this and I want to know if I need to be worried or not!?

It was laying like this on the rock I initially had it on so I moved it lower thinking it was getting too much light but it’s still like this on the bottom of the tank now too.

IMG_0889.jpeg
 

Formulator

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Its OK, just angry at your water or shedding (leathers shed their skin regularly). Put it back on a rock and use a rubber band to hold it down on the rock until it attaches itself. Put it about halfway up your tank. They like some light and it probably isn’t getting enough at the bottom.

What are your water parameters? You need to keep track of alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium at minimum if you want to start keeping corals. Nitrate and phosphate are a good idea too, but they can be tested less frequently.
 
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KrisReef

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Hi All! I have a 40 Gal tank that was FOWLR since November until Friday when I added this leather toadstool.

It looks like this and I want to know if I need to be worried or not!?

It was laying like this on the rock I initially had it on so I moved it lower thinking it was getting too much light but it’s still like this on the bottom of the tank now too.

IMG_0889.jpeg
You can worry if you want to but you don't need to. Soft corals are tricky to get to attach to the substrate but try and follow the guidelines provided by @Formulator, or gently wedge the stalk in a crevice and if the coral stays put it will grow in place and it should straighten up once it is attached.

What kind of lights (or how much PAR) does the toadstool get in your tank?
 
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kileki

kileki

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Its OK, just angry at your water or shedding (leathers shed their skin regularly). Put it back on a rock and use a rubber band to hold it down on the rock until it attaches itself. Put it about halfway up your tank. They like some light and it probably isn’t getting enough at the bottom.

What are your water parameters? You need to keep track of alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium at minimum if you want to start keeping corals. Nitrate and phosphate are a good idea too, but they can be tested less frequently.
I just moved it down because I thought it was maybe getting too much light, it was originally on a rock, but I will move it back up.

My parameters are:
pH: 7.6
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 20 (I do water changes every 2 weeks but it never changes. My LFS assured me it was okay everything I read says it should be 3-5)

kH: 6.4
mg: 1350
Ca: 380
PO4: 1

I have a fluval sea marine 3.0 light on the tank, this is my current light cycle
 

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Mr. Mojo Rising

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They like light and lots of flow.

Very doubtful you are giving it too much light with the fluval light, its not a strong light. Toadstools are actually light hogs compared to other corals. I would move it up into more light and flow
 
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kileki

kileki

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They like light and lots of flow.

Very doubtful you are giving it too much light with the fluval light, its not a strong light. Toadstools are actually light hogs compared to other corals. I would move it up into more light and flow
Is there ever “too much flow”? I also added Hygger wave maker on the opposite side of the tank to go with my preexisting power head because I just had a cheap $20 aqueon power head.

Thanks for the help!!
 
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Gumbies R Us

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I just moved it down because I thought it was maybe getting too much light, it was originally on a rock, but I will move it back up.

My parameters are:
pH: 7.6
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 20 (I do water changes every 2 weeks but it never changes. My LFS assured me it was okay everything I read says it should be 3-5)

kH: 6.4
mg: 1350
Ca: 380
PO4: 1

I have a fluval sea marine 3.0 light on the tank, this is my current light cycle
Alk is pretty low. You can raise it using sodium bicarb, kalk, or all for reef (this will raise your calcium as well)
 
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Mr. Mojo Rising

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Is there ever “too much flow”? I also added Hygger wave maker on the opposite side of the tank to go with my preexisting power head because I just had a cheap $20 aqueon power head.

Thanks for the help!!
I think that sounds good.
My 40 gallon has 2 gyres blasting away. Yes there can be too much flow, but reef tanks can take (should have IMO) 30x-40x-50x the water turnover.
 
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kileki

kileki

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Alk is pretty low. You can raise it using sodium bicarb, kalk, or all for reef (this will raise your calcium as well)
What about my Nitrate and Po4? My LFS said it was okay, but everything I read online says it’s bad. Also, will all for reef raise my magnesium too? I think my magnesium is on the high end.
 
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rhitee93

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I think your nitrates are fine. The 3-5 is more of an SPS thing, and even that seems to be I question these days. For soft corals, higher nitrates are ok, or even a good thing.

Are your phosphates 1 or 0.1? 1 would be quite high.
 
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kileki

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I think your nitrates are fine. The 3-5 is more of an SPS thing, and even that seems to be I question these days. For soft corals, higher nitrates are ok, or even a good thing.

Are your phosphates 1 or 0.1? 1 would be quite high.
1.0, actually first time I tested for phosphates in my tank. I used API PO4 test kit, with the match the color sheet.
 
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Mr. Mojo Rising

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Could you break that down for my simple beginner brain please? lol
Sure, you have a 40 gallon tank, for example if the powerhead is 400 gph (gallons per hour), then 400 gph divided by 40 gallons equals 10x turnover.

If you have 2 powerheads of 400 gph each, then it is 800 gph total, divided by 40 gallons, gives you 20x water turnover. So total gph divided by tank gallons.

IMO 20x water turnover should be the minimum, like I said I like mine higher. SPS tanks can have 50x-60x or ever higher.

Flow pushes more water (and debris) into the filtration systems, gets rid of dead spots and brings oxygen and nutrients to corals. Higher flow also helps against algae. IMO higher flow contributes to a healthy system.
 
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kileki

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Sure, you have a 40 gallon tank, for example if the powerhead is 400 gph (gallons per hour), then 400 gph divided by 40 gallons equals 10x turnover.

If you have 2 powerheads of 400 gph each, then it is 800 gph total, divided by 40 gallons, gives you 20x water turnover. So total gph divided by tank gallons.

IMO 20x water turnover should be the minimum, like I said I like mine higher. SPS tanks can have 50x-60x or ever higher.

Flow pushes more water (and debris) into the filtration systems, gets rid of dead spots and brings oxygen and nutrients to corals. Higher flow also helps against algae. IMO higher flow contributes to a healthy system.
Thank you!!
 
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rhitee93

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1.0, actually first time I tested for phosphates in my tank. I used API PO4 test kit, with the match the color sheet.

Well, 1.0 ppm would be quite high compared to what most consider a safe level. Many would say 0.05 ppm is tops for SPS. My tank is quite happy at 0.1 to 0.15ppm. You are literally an order of magnitude over that.

API tests don't have the best reputation. I'd get those results verified somehow before you make any adjustment.
 
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What about my Nitrate and Po4? My LFS said it was okay, but everything I read online says it’s bad. Also, will all for reef raise my magnesium too? I think my magnesium is on the high end.
All for reef won't raise mag. I usually don't test mag or really worry about it. (others might say differently, though)
 
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kileki

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Well, 1.0 ppm would be quite high compared to what most consider a safe level. Many would say 0.05 ppm is tops for SPS. My tank is quite happy at 0.1 to 0.15ppm. You are literally an order of magnitude over that.

API tests don't have the best reputation. I'd get those results verified somehow before you make any adjustment.
Thanks Brian, so you wouldn't suggest to buy a liquid phosphate remover to add to the tank or anything of that nature until I verify? I ask because I wont be able to verify until tomorrow PM at the earliest. I dont want my little guy bleaching on me. Ive grown quite fond of him
 
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