Plumbers needed. Return system plumbing.

Miami Reef

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I want to install a UV sterilizer into my return line.

I think my return pump is rated 2,000gph. This is the UV sterilizer manufacturer guidelines:


“Saltwater Reef Applications: 2133 GPH - 3200 GPH

Protozoa Bacteria Water Flow Rate: 1066 (min), 3200 GPH (max)”

In the next post I will post pictures of the system. The return system is soft plumed and I was thinking of making it with PVC.
 
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Miami Reef

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The (float gate valve?) is the return pump. You can see where it flows out.

My goal is reducing any headless through my system because the UV will further increase headloss

1834D2C2-85A7-4A91-BF57-165CF541BA2E.jpeg
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3E5B608A-CFE4-419E-99F5-5E0E5DB0EFBE.jpeg
 

Logical_Plan

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Attached diagram for how it should be added for closed loop. I have not done this yet, but fairly certain it is right, perhaps someone can confirm schematic.

Ball valves are for maintenance only and are full open during normal operation. The gate valve will cause the appropriate flow into the UV and the rest will flow through the return line. With the flow meter you can adjust the gate valve later to increase flow through UV when you are done with ich and switch it to algae control.
 

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Red_Beard

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If you want to cut head, upsize the flex line and get rid of the 90 going up, so it goes straight into the pvc instead of 90.
 
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Miami Reef

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I think I have a new problem.

It started leaked after I turned it! Oh no.
image.jpg
 

DrZoidburg

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Attached diagram for how it should be added for closed loop. I have not done this yet, but fairly certain it is right, perhaps someone can confirm schematic.

Ball valves are for maintenance only and are full open during normal operation. The gate valve will cause the appropriate flow into the UV and the rest will flow through the return line. With the flow meter you can adjust the gate valve later to increase flow through UV when you are done with ich and switch it to algae control.
I could see that working well.
 
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Miami Reef

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I don’t think I cracked it. I just don’t know how to tighten it.
 

DrZoidburg

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It should only be like 1/8th or a 1/4 turn more and probably good. If you hit it with a spray bottle and water. Dry it off real quick and watch it. If it leaks from top it might need tightening, leaks from threads probably cracked. Looks like its just not tight enough from my view.
 
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Miami Reef

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I think I’m just going to put the system back together.

Do you have any ideas on how I can get a reefer who is good at plumbing to check out my system? I honestly don’t have faith in it. It was build over a decade ago and I’ve been working with what I’ve got, but I really get nightmares about the system breaking/crashing.
 
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Miami Reef

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I’d prefer someone in real life who I can pay. Because I really don’t know plumbing. I don’t like how some things are half way done in my tank.
 

DrZoidburg

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Don't know anyone down there. Its not rocket science but hard if you don't have some tools. You have plenty of people to ask here. I wouldn't use a plumber they don't really know about reefing, and have seen a mess up job on here using one. I would caution against somethings though. Personally lost some inverts to solvent vapors once. Unrelated to tank plumbing. Was 2 rooms away redoing old drains. What's so wrong about it? Looks like it should work. Only thing I would worry about is old glue joints, but even those should last 20+ years if done right.
 
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Miami Reef

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Don't know anyone down there. Its not rocket science but hard if you don't have some tools. You have plenty of people to ask here. I wouldn't use a plumber they don't really know about reefing, and have seen a mess up job on here using one. I would caution against somethings though. Personally lost some inverts to solvent vapors once. Unrelated to tank plumbing. Was 2 rooms away redoing old drains. What's so wrong about it? Looks like it should work. Only thing I would worry about is old glue joints, but even those should last 20+ years if done right.
I had someone help me tighten the connections. The leaking stopped.
 

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