Plumbing questions - reactors and dosing and return pumps etc

[Freenow54]

Yes they get on and off 1 once a year. Or every reactor cleaning or pump replacement. Even the 2” overflow gets adjusted once in awhile when the return pump starts to slow down.

Good Man I am too Lazy and should know better

 

[Freenow54]

Stand Alone add what you want as to media . Comes in ready to install bags , or you can buy your own bags and buy media in bulk has its own supply and return and is external .

but not adjustable flow

Don't buy a Fluval heater as they are not unless the morons changed it are NOT submersible What ?????

 

[lapin]

since we are talking fittings. If you use things that have 2 parts like unions. Get spares. I had something go bad and only needed to replace 1/2 the union. Well about 5 years ago our good friend ( god of pvc) decided it would save them money if they reduced the size of the connection and guess what, new threads do not match old.

 

[KrisReef]

I've got a 10000l/hr (2640 gal/hr) pump for my return to allow headroom for the reactor manifold.

Reactor manifold I'm doing is based off a DIY one I saw on one of the threads on this site. Will definitely involve valves and transparent containers so I can see that I've got the right flow going.

Why would you want to go big on the DT inlet? Still learning and this is my first custom tank.

Would you branch the dosing off the return pump or put that separate? That should dose into the return chamber, right? If separate, why?

I like to get all the info :)

Bigger pipe is the simplest way to lower pressure needed in the system.

https://wcponline.com/2013/02/03/hy...his is because the Nernst,to come in Part 3).
Lots to consider 2640 gallons/60 minutes = 44 gallons per minute if the pump is running wide open. Return to the sump has to flow at the same rate.

AI+ Forty gallons of water would fill approximately 924 feet of standard 1-inch diameter pipe.

Motion, flow, and capacity need to be matched. GL

 

[Freenow54]

I might have to remove the one baffle pane between the middle and small section to allow enough headroom for overflow from the tank if the pump stops. But I do like this approach - it’s what I instinctively want to do, but so many reefers rely on gadgets and things I thought I was mad.

No water changes (or at least minimal water changes) is bliss - salt is expensive!!

And just a few large chunks of rock is enough? No need for ceramic filter cylinders or any of that malarkey? Is that enough for the pod population? I thought they needed a lot of hiding space.

My original tank DT and sump are crawling with the things, so I can easily seed the new tank.

No Just make a non siphon return easy to do I believe there is even an article on this site. Its simple just have the return line which is just an open pipe terminate below the inlet pipe so if pump failure or power outage it cannot drain off any further down than the top of the pipe. My Aquarium came with that set up an I was shocked to see other manufacturers not having it

 

[Freenow54]

since we are talking fittings. If you use things that have 2 parts like unions. Get spares. I had something go bad and only needed to replace 1/2 the union. Well about 5 years ago our good friend ( god of pvc) decided it would save them money if they reduced the size of the connection and guess what, new threads do not match old.

What I dont like hearing that as PVC was ID all my life are you sure it wasnt CPVC ?

 

[Freenow54]

I prefer the Triton Method for my sump, water comes into the Fuge from the tank, no Filters or socks, then to the skimmer/media chamber, then return pump. Very simple but extremely effective setup.

Unlike traditional refugium designs, the TRITON sump features an innovative layout with the algae bed positioned before the skimmer. This allows the algae to effectively filter the water before it flows into the skimmer chamber, where unwanted proteins are removed. The design includes a protein trap in the second chamber, allowing proteins to accumulate until the skimmer can efficiently filter them out, enhancing overall performance.

The Algae Refugium Provides the ideal conditions to grow a variety of algae types and provides a refuge for a range of biological life (eg. isopods, amphipods, copepods, etc) that produce plankton to help feed the coral growing in the display aquarium.

Skimmer An essential element for gas exchange and the export of biological waste, the skimmer prevents waste from breaking down in your aquarium, ensuring a cleaner and healthier environment for your corals.

Above copied from Triton. Here is a link to this info,
https://www.triton.de/fileadmin/use... - Document - TRITON Method - Full Manual.pdf

Interested in this as I want to DIY an algae skimmer so what is the light source , and how do you stop algae from growing on the glass of the sump?

 

[lapin]

What I dont like hearing that as PVC was ID all my life are you sure it wasnt CPVC ?

Just plain old pvc . And they all did it. So not only do threads not match between manufacturers the old does not match new. I’m talking stuff from maybe 8 to 10 years ago then changed maybe 4 5 years ago. I asked a few plumbers and they confirmed it. Of course no one had old stock.

 

[FlickaSA]

I do weekly changes I think I know what you are talking about an auto top off ? I have to get one , I just add Ro as needed but don't check because I am Lazy. someone pointed out that Corals don't like big swings so I have to spring for one. Always somebody wants to spend my non existent money

It's a pump thing that can be used for both ATO and water changes.
It has an app where you tell it how much water to pump from the tank and into the tank, then you stick the right pipes in the right places, anchor them and let it do it's thing.

https://www.aquaforest.co.nz/collections/kamoer/products/kamoer-x2sr-water-change-system
Mine is the older model without the sensors.

 

[FlickaSA]

Don't buy a Fluval heater as they are not unless the morons changed it are NOT submersible What ?????

Eheim and Jager all the way on the heaters.

 

[FlickaSA]

Bigger pipe is the simplest way to lower pressure needed in the system.

https://wcponline.com/2013/02/03/hy...his is because the Nernst,to come in Part 3).
Lots to consider 2640 gallons/60 minutes = 44 gallons per minute if the pump is running wide open. Return to the sump has to flow at the same rate.

AI+ Forty gallons of water would fill approximately 924 feet of standard 1-inch diameter pipe.

Motion, flow, and capacity need to be matched. GL

Pump has a variable flow thing on it so I can turn it down and not run it full blast. It's overkill for my tank right now, but the tank will "grow" into it eventually.

I'm going to have to upsize my tank since I've got a Red Cori's Wrasse and he's eventually going to outgrow my 140g. Am already planning for that.

 

[FlickaSA]

Interested in this as I want to DIY an algae skimmer so what is the light source , and how do you stop algae from growing on the glass of the sump?

Same way you stop it on the DT - you don't. You'd have to clean it now and again - but only if it's hair algae or the other nuisance ones that you don't want. That's what a refugium is for - using algae to feed pods and algae to feed off the spare nutrients in your tank to keep things nice and balanced. If you're getting a mass amount of bad algae growing in your fuge, something is out of whack and the algae is compensating for it by growing like mad.

 

[FlickaSA]

No Just make a non siphon return easy to do I believe there is even an article on this site. Its simple just have the return line which is just an open pipe terminate below the inlet pipe so if pump failure or power outage it cannot drain off any further down than the top of the pipe. My Aquarium came with that set up an I was shocked to see other manufacturers not having it

The return pipe will be bent in above the waterline to avoid back siphon.
It's leaving room in the sump to make sure that when the pump turns off, the catchup flow from the overflow doesn't flood things. Even with a well balanced system like my original tank, when you turn off the pump, the overflow box still runs for a little bit purely because the water level in the tank needs to be higher than the overflow for it to actually overflow into the sump.

That's what I'd need to account for in swapping my sump around because the original intention of the chamber the return pump is going to go into is for filter socks and is really little.

Removing that part of the baffle also then does the protein sink that was mentioned at some point in here where you have a baffle/divider where the water goes under.

 

[Bartanto]

How come ? I have a 1 inch inlet and 3/4 out and running about 1/4 speed. Just curious

Mas flow!

 

[14 foot reef]

The skimmer has its own pump and have concluded the dosing can have its own pump.

Can you explain why you’d use separate pumps for reactor manifold and return? Or are you saying a separate pump for each reactor? What consistency are you referring to - flow rates through the manifold and into the DT?

I’m basing my plans off information gleaned from long time reefers here in New Zealand but different experiences and information from this forum are always taken into consideration.

You originally posted this.

I'm planning on running a reactor manifold (GFO, Carbon, Bio Pellets) and dosing (calcium, alkalinity, magnesium, trace elements).
They'll be t'd off my return pump.


That's 1 pump running everything.

Looks like you already changed your design by me just typing that, we didn't have to wait 2 years.

Happy reefing, this is an awesome hobby and R2R is a great source for info. Good luck on your build.

 

[Bruttall]

Interested in this as I want to DIY an algae skimmer so what is the light source , and how do you stop algae from growing on the glass of the sump?

APEX Gro Light is what I use for my Fuge and I do not worry about Algae creep in my sump. The Fuge is there expressly for the purpose of growing whatever slimy green stuff will grow. I do have a Black Tinted Pane before the Return chamber prevent algae from growing there. This picture shows that tinted panel sorta.




This is the sump when I picked it up from the Shop. Custom built 125g aquarium sump.

 

[Freenow54]

Just plain old pvc . And they all did it. So not only do threads not match between manufacturers the old does not match new. I’m talking stuff from maybe 8 to 10 years ago then changed maybe 4 5 years ago. I asked a few plumbers and they confirmed it. Of course no one had old stock.

Strange as it is called FIP or MIP which is standard. I just bought some fittings about a month ago and I intend to call my supplier and check threads with some old fittings I have and check with my friend plumber

 

[Freenow54]

APEX Gro Light is what I use for my Fuge and I do not worry about Algae creep in my sump. The Fuge is there expressly for the purpose of growing whatever slimy green stuff will grow. I do have a Black Tinted Pane before the Return chamber prevent algae from growing there. This picture shows that tinted panel sorta.




This is the sump when I picked it up from the Shop. Custom built 125g aquarium sump.

Thanks I use plastic panels as well. Just concerned about lighting being near water.

 

[RobertK]

If you are concerned about limiting light spread in the sump you could rig up a barndoor used for photo/videography or buy a 3D printed shade for your refugium light, there are a number of people online selling these. For example here is one for the Neptune Gro Light:
https://printedreef.com/collections/neptune-systems/products/neptune-gro-light-shadeThat one looks a little short to me but just an example.