Plumbing questions - reactors and dosing and return pumps etc

[Freenow54]

My opinion on this goes against most of the replies here..

You will never get consistency in a manifold situation with 1 pump doing that many things especially if you incorporate your skimmer in this single pump design.

I have been reefing for 45 years, you can take my advice or leave it. But if you are still in the hobby 2 years from now and successful, you will have changed almost everything mentioned to separate pumps. You might as well go ahead and set it up the first time correctly.

I said the same

 

[Freenow54]

Sounds good .
Idea: I would set up some way of adjusting the flow to your reactors. Ball valves are good. An independent pump is even better.

Globe valves are designed specifically for flow control and are used in skimmer designs

 

[FlickaSA]

Globe valves are designed specifically for flow control and are used in skimmer designs

The manifold will definitely have valves for flow rate control. I'll look into the globe valve thing - haven't heard the term before, but I'm not a plumber, so... :)

I know about ball valves and was going to use those within the manifold.

Still trying to understand why the recommendation for a separate pump? Is it just about being able to control flow rates through the manifold?

 

[Freenow54]

Agree on secondary pump for manifold/reactors if possible. Also, if you’re doing the plumbing to the DT go as big of diameter as possible for flow. I went 3/4” on a 150 gal with a UV plumber in and I’ve kicked myself constantly for not going at least 1”

I have done extensive research on UV lights . Apparently a lot are not installed properly the flow rate is extremely important as is the fact that the usable light range is not the stated Wattage . Check it out . The flow rates are different for every application. So I used AI to Plumb mine , add three way valve and maybe a bypass for the light. I decided to plumb mine entirely separate and have all of that . AI was very Useful , Even gave me directions and flow rates with ant piping designs , Amazing

 

[Freenow54]

Hi - setting up my first big-ish tank (140g).
I've not run reactors or dosing in the past - tank wasn't big enough to warrant it.

I'm planning on running a reactor manifold (GFO, Carbon, Bio Pellets) and dosing (calcium, alkalinity, magnesium, trace elements).
They'll be t'd off my return pump.

So in the sump, water goes in the overflow from the tank, then to the skimmer, then to the refugium, then return pump.
From the pump, it will t-off to the reactor manifold back to the skimmer and then onward again.

I know bio pellets and GFO both act on Phosphate - the GFO will be there if phosphate climbs in spite of the bio pellets as a backup if extra export is needed.

For test kits, I'm running Hanna Nitrate HR, Phosphorous ULR, Aquaforest/Seachem/Red Sea for magnesium, alkalinity and calcium.
Seachem Ammonia badge for peace of mind. Intermittently using API (I know they're not great) for nitrite and ammonia tests and PH.

Does that sound right?
Am I missing something?
Where in all this do I put the dosing system?

I found that Salifert is the test kit to use just because of the syringe design , It is flat and foolproof to read. I am not familiar with yours but APII vote no. Also as to Magnesium a respected member here and a chemist says Mag test kits are very inaccurate and does not test for it. His go to is Calcium

 

[FlickaSA]

I have done extensive research on UV lights . Apparently a lot are not installed properly the flow rate is extremely important as is the fact that the usable light range is not the stated Wattage . Check it out . The flow rates are different for every application. So I used AI to Plumb mine , add three way valve and maybe a bypass for the light. I decided to plumb mine entirely separate and have all of that . AI was very Useful , Even gave me directions and flow rates with ant piping designs , Amazing

Yup - UV light I've got came with it's own pump, so that's not a concern. Manifold design I have in mind is essentially a long pipe off the return pump (or separate pump if I can get some clarify on the reasoning for that which makes sense), each reactor branched off that with it's own valve that can control flow or bypass that container entirely if I want to.

Also trying to picture in my head how you use a canister filter in this kind of setup?

 

[lapin]

I know about ball valves and was going to use those within the manifold.

If you really want longevity use gate valves.

 

[Freenow54]

I prefer the Triton Method for my sump, water comes into the Fuge from the tank, no Filters or socks, then to the skimmer/media chamber, then return pump. Very simple but extremely effective setup.

Unlike traditional refugium designs, the TRITON sump features an innovative layout with the algae bed positioned before the skimmer. This allows the algae to effectively filter the water before it flows into the skimmer chamber, where unwanted proteins are removed. The design includes a protein trap in the second chamber, allowing proteins to accumulate until the skimmer can efficiently filter them out, enhancing overall performance.

The Algae Refugium Provides the ideal conditions to grow a variety of algae types and provides a refuge for a range of biological life (eg. isopods, amphipods, copepods, etc) that produce plankton to help feed the coral growing in the display aquarium.

Skimmer An essential element for gas exchange and the export of biological waste, the skimmer prevents waste from breaking down in your aquarium, ensuring a cleaner and healthier environment for your corals.

Above copied from Triton. Here is a link to this info,
https://www.triton.de/fileadmin/use... - Document - TRITON Method - Full Manual.pdf

My set up is the same except I use an External pump set up for a quick change Ecotech Vectra . It uses twist connections so trying to keep glue chemicals out of your tank assuming you have a spare ready is not an issue . No screwing around done in minutes

 

[FlickaSA]

I found that Salifert is the test kit to use just because of the syringe design , It is flat and foolproof to read. I am not familiar with yours but APII vote no. Also as to Magnesium a respected member here and a chemist says Mag test kits are very inaccurate and does not test for it. His go to is Calcium

Yeah - API is really bad. I just use it to check ammonia and nitrite when cycling a new tank or if something's out of whack. And then just to keep an eye on PH.

Everything else is a "proper" test.

Good to know on the magnesium test, I recall reading that a few places. I've got the test kit so I might as well use it until it's gone though.

The one's I've got pretty much all use a drip in this reagent and that stuff and swish and drip drip drip until you get a colour change and then that's your levels. Similar to Salifert.

 

[FlickaSA]

If you really want longevity use gate valves.

Ack! So many valve options! Will add those to the list to check.

 

[Freenow54]

If you really want longevity use gate valves.

Again they will all freeze up with salt use Globe . Check it out that's what they are for. Even my isolation ball valves were a bad choice for that reason. Gates are even worse. I am a steam fitter I know from experience on this one

 

[FlickaSA]

My set up is the same except I use an External pump set up for a quick change Ecotech Vectra . It uses twist connections so trying to keep glue chemicals out of your tank assuming you have a spare ready is not an issue . No screwing around done in minutes

For water changes when absolutely needed I've got myself a Kamoer auto thingy that let's me tell it how much of what to pump and leave it to do it's thing. Simple to use.

 

[lapin]

10 years on my pvc gate valves they work like new

 

[FlickaSA]

10 years on my pvc gate valves they work like new

Do you have a picture?

 

[Freenow54]

Agree on secondary pump for manifold/reactors if possible. Also, if you’re doing the plumbing to the DT go as big of diameter as possible for flow. I went 3/4” on a 150 gal with a UV plumber in and I’ve kicked myself constantly for not going at least 1”

How come ? I have a 1 inch inlet and 3/4 out and running about 1/4 speed. Just curious

 

[Freenow54]

10 years on my pvc gate valves they work like new

Do you exercise them ? If not I just plain don't believe you

 

[Freenow54]

Yup - UV light I've got came with it's own pump, so that's not a concern. Manifold design I have in mind is essentially a long pipe off the return pump (or separate pump if I can get some clarify on the reasoning for that which makes sense), each reactor branched off that with it's own valve that can control flow or bypass that container entirely if I want to.

Also trying to picture in my head how you use a canister filter in this kind of setup?

Yup - UV light I've got came with it's own pump, so that's not a concern. Manifold design I have in mind is essentially a long pipe off the return pump (or separate pump if I can get some clarify on the reasoning for that which makes sense), each reactor branched off that with it's own valve that can control flow or bypass that container entirely if I want to.

Also trying to picture in my head how you use a canister filter in this kind of setup?

Stand Alone add what you want as to media . Comes in ready to install bags , or you can buy your own bags and buy media in bulk has its own supply and return and is external .

but not adjustable flow

 

[FlickaSA]

Again they will all freeze up with salt use Globe . Check it out that's what they are for. Even my isolation ball valves were a bad choice for that reason. Gates are even worse. I am a steam fitter I know from experience on this one

Can you give me the low down on how these avoid freezing up with salt?
How do the ball valves/gate valves lead to issues?

Aside from the salt thing - what makes the globe the best option?

I'm all for doing it right - which is why I started this thread in the first place - but I need as much technical info as you're able to provide to be able to make an informed decision rather than going on blind faith :)

There are just so many opinions.

I'm a facts and figures person, so :)

 

[lapin]

Yes they get on and off 1 once a year. Or every reactor cleaning or pump replacement. Even the 2” overflow gets adjusted once in awhile when the return pump starts to slow down.

 

[Freenow54]

For water changes when absolutely needed I've got myself a Kamoer auto thingy that let's me tell it how much of what to pump and leave it to do it's thing. Simple to use.

I do weekly changes I think I know what you are talking about an auto top off ? I have to get one , I just add Ro as needed but don't check because I am Lazy. someone pointed out that Corals don't like big swings so I have to spring for one. Always somebody wants to spend my non existent money