Potential display and sump/fragtank set up...

[dougers31]

This is my current plan for my new set up(changed my plan last night from a 30br frag/sump to a 33L. Also went from having the sump/frag tank under the main display to right next to it. 40br display on the left and the 33l on the right. I should have plenty of space underneath for a phos reactor plus top off etc.. maybe even for mixing saltwater. I will have to drill the back for this setup and since I haven't heard any definant answer as to which(bottom or back drilling) is better I'm ok with drilling the back.

One (hopefully) last question... I hear people go back and forth on different forums on using some foam/styro underneath a glass tank. I really want pros and cons if anyone has input.

Also, looking for any other ideas or input on this....

Thanks!

 

[dougers31]

Any input on this???

 

[phi delt reefer]

a few things here...

• side by side setups use alot of room. And if you are going to put reactors and what not below you might as well throw that sump under the stand. Complicating an already complex hobby is asking for trouble in my opinion. Not to mention two different sized tanks beside each other has no symmetry and will look more like an after thought then a well executed and unique design. You can put your sump below and baffle it length wise so the front the is a DISPLAY FUGE (keep it pretty, nice macro algaes, interesting inverts, etc.) while the back has your "polishers" (gfo/carbon/pellets/floss). I can point you to a perfect example on nano reef if you are interested.
• as for drilling - back is always safer than the bottom. Simple logic - if the bulkhead on the bottom leaks it wont stop until your entire tank empties. Put it on the back as high up as safely possible (hole should be a minimum of 1" from the top and side of the glass pane). There are a couple different overflow designs that can be quiet and safe. Plan in advance and save yourself from being a forum "horror" story, lol.

styro - to use or not?

• if the tank you has black trim around the BASE of the tank and then do not use sytrofoam. The weight of the tank actually is rests on black trim and it will dig into the sytrofoam and instead force the weight of the tank to be supported by the bottom glass pane instead. The weight wont be evenly distributed and you have the POTENTIAL for the glass to crack. Tanks with black trim bases USUALLY use a thinner glass all around for they rely on the support of the trim (its not meant to be aesthetic - it actually has a structural purpose!) The top trim can be removed on smaller tanks for the pressure forces are minimal but do so with caution on anything over 25 gallons.
• if the tank you have has NO trim then you can go either route. Acrylic tanks MUST have a solid top to rest on (but you can put stryofoam between the tank and table) while Glass tanks can be supported on outer edges alone. I would go with a solid top regardless

 

[akabryanhall]

A lot of really good info there man! Can you pm me the link of the guy on nano reef?

 

[dougers31]

a few things here...

• side by side setups use alot of room. And if you are going to put reactors and what not below you might as well throw that sump under the stand. Complicating an already complex hobby is asking for trouble in my opinion. Not to mention two different sized tanks beside each other has no symmetry and will look more like an after thought then a well executed and unique design. You can put your sump below and baffle it length wise so the front the is a DISPLAY FUGE (keep it pretty, nice macro algaes, interesting inverts, etc.) while the back has your "polishers" (gfo/carbon/pellets/floss). I can point you to a perfect example on nano reef if you are interested.
• as for drilling - back is always safer than the bottom. Simple logic - if the bulkhead on the bottom leaks it wont stop until your entire tank empties. Put it on the back as high up as safely possible (hole should be a minimum of 1" from the top and side of the glass pane). There are a couple different overflow designs that can be quiet and safe. Plan in advance and save yourself from being a forum "horror" story, lol.

styro - to use or not?

• if the tank you has black trim around the BASE of the tank and then do not use sytrofoam. The weight of the tank actually is rests on black trim and it will dig into the sytrofoam and instead force the weight of the tank to be supported by the bottom glass pane instead. The weight wont be evenly distributed and you have the POTENTIAL for the glass to crack. Tanks with black trim bases USUALLY use a thinner glass all around for they rely on the support of the trim (its not meant to be aesthetic - it actually has a structural purpose!) The top trim can be removed on smaller tanks for the pressure forces are minimal but do so with caution on anything over 25 gallons.
• if the tank you have has NO trim then you can go either route. Acrylic tanks MUST have a solid top to rest on (but you can put stryofoam between the tank and table) while Glass tanks can be supported on outer edges alone. I would go with a solid top regardless

Thank you for such a detailed and educated response! I guess my other option would be to build an oversized stand and put a 30br down there. The tank is glass and will have trim. I just want to make sure that I don't put any extra stress on it since it will be drilled.....What about an 1/8in layer(shouldn't affect the glass) of water proof foam etc? Can you post the link on nano reef for the overflow?
Thanks again.

 

[phi delt reefer]

sump thread
http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=259797&st=0

owners build thread
http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=259616&st=0&start=0

dont use sytrofoam if you have trim on the base of the tank. If it doesnt have trim then you can do either way.

stand must be very level so make sure you have access to a decent 3 or 4 foot level and if you are building from scratch you can incorporate some adjustable legs - they are pretty cheap and you just screw them up or down to make adjustments.