Pumps, sumps, and dumps?
- Thread starter Mom.VS.Reef
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1. I would CONSIDER having the return on the opposite end of the tank than the overflow.
2. I use silicone tubing rather than hard piping. If you're going to use it - you have to use PVC cement. Silicone does not work.
3. Use clamps to hold the tubing onto the ends of the barbs.
Here is the rationale for each one:
1. Better circulation. Having the return on the other rend will tend to put the clean water on one end - and the 'dirty' water will go into the filter
2. Its easier to take apart - and avoid leaks, and aside from aesthetics - there is no need to use it. There is some debate about certain hard and soft PVC tubing - that leaches Tin - thats another topic.
3. The clamps will prevent leaking/problems.
Some other comments:
1. Make sure that you plan the level in your skimmer chamber - such that you don't have to elevate it too much - which makes maintenance difficult (depending on the type of skimmer)
2. I assume the diameter of the holes in your filter sock match the common varieties
3. The filter socks look like they are 'high' up in the sump - there needs to be some kind of lip around them to avoid water just running over them and into the tank.
OP
OP
Mom.VS.Reef
Community Member
Thanks so much for your input. So if I use tubing instead of pvc I do not have to cement it correct?
Correct. Just use 'hose barb' connections
OP
OP
Mom.VS.Reef
Community Member
Thanks so much!
can I ask what you think of the order of my sump? There is no dividers atm but I plan to instal and do filter socks, refugium,,skimmer chamber, over flow box.
Not gunna lie I do not understand at all about the panels right before the overflow that is suppose to be right close together for like sponge filters and what not. I just don’t get how the water moves, and how to keep it level and not over flow. And like if there is a pump pushing out and water coming in.. why would it over flow?
should the sump be pretty full or like half full?
how do I make sure it won’t overflow...
OP
OP
Mom.VS.Reef
Community Member
Also, what size tubing would you recommend for max gph? 1 inch?
OP
OP
Mom.VS.Reef
Community Member
Sorry one more thing lol
If I have a overflow box.. I don’t need a pump to suck water in right.. it was just keep flowing as the return pushes back into the tank right?
Gtinnel
10K Club member
For plumbing you can use either flexible tubing or rigid plumbing. If you go rigid it is the same pvc that gets sold at home improvement stores for use in home plumbing. The only time you see people buy it from aquarium websites is because it's easier to get colored pvc instead of the white from lowes/home depot. I would never do rigid without using the solvent to glue the pipes together. The key is to add unions so you can take it apart.
Basically you pump water up to the aquarium from the sump which raises the water level in the tank and causes it to overflow back down into the sump. There are sheets of glass (baffles) in the sump to set the height of each section. They have to go from tallest to shortest as you go from the first chamber to the last. When you see two or three baffles close together that is usually there to act as a bubble trap. The theory is that if you force the water to flow down to get to the next chamber the bubbles will no go with it, so that you don't get bubbles going into the tank.
The sump usually only stays somewhere around half full while running. When power to the return pump goes off some extra water from the display will flow down into the sump and you need to have room for the sump to hold it.
Basically you pump water up to the aquarium from the sump which raises the water level in the tank and causes it to overflow back down into the sump. There are sheets of glass (baffles) in the sump to set the height of each section. They have to go from tallest to shortest as you go from the first chamber to the last. When you see two or three baffles close together that is usually there to act as a bubble trap. The theory is that if you force the water to flow down to get to the next chamber the bubbles will no go with it, so that you don't get bubbles going into the tank.
The sump usually only stays somewhere around half full while running. When power to the return pump goes off some extra water from the display will flow down into the sump and you need to have room for the sump to hold it.
I would check out some of the 'professionally made' sumps - and model after that. Your terms are not quite right - the 'overflow box' is normally what goes from the tank to the sump. Its hard to say without being there - exactly how high to make things etc.
ATC
Community Member
I went hard plumbing on my reef tank Because I like a super clean look that being said all of my freshwater tanks are plumbed with flexible hose and I’ve got nothing bad to say about it other than it’s not as pretty. Also flexible tubing will be much easier to run. If you go pvc Just use a ton of union’s if you think you have enough you don’t lol. The union’s worked out in my favor when I upgraded to my new sump it was a super easy to swap just disconnected a couple of unions and away I went. If you use pvc just remember prime and cement the fittings and the pipe and give it a little twist it’s not actually gluing the pipe it’s more like welding. Also dry fit everything first to make sure it all fits. Also I agree with Mnfish1 left to right for flow you will get way better filtration out of the sump that way.
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