Pygmy red rooster waspfish Care tips

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lion king

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I've had a trio of little cuties for 3 years now; I've seen an explosion of interest and new additions of these guys of late. I've also seen some struggles and confusion of care and what to expect from really, a unique little predator. Yes these guys are predators, they are in the Scorpaenidae family along with lionfish, and do take special considerations in care and especially feeding. I usually post in the Predator forum but thought more would find this post here. If you have read any of my threads, most of the same rules apply to these little guys.

1st know your source, they do not tolerate copper. If your lfs runs copper in their system, this wilk cause liver damage, and eventually liver failure. This can occur quickly like after the stress of a move, or out of nowhere several months down the line. You can take the chance but just be aware that this can happen. They are very sensitive to any chemicals; that means Vibrant, Chemiclean, Flatworm Exit, any such tank cleaners of pest eradicators, etc.

Feeding, many times they will need live food initially, so be advised and prepared. If you have a good pod population especially amphipods, this will usually satisfy until you get them taking other foods. They will usually take to target feeding through a pipette within a couple of weeks or so; Pe mysis, Hikari mega marine,m and fine minced seafood combo are my favorite offering. Some live foods may include black worms, brine shrimp, very small ghost shrimp, and even guppies. For these guys to really thrive, you must target feed them. People that broadcast feed and expect these guys to fend for themselves, usually find they wither away after a few months.

Difficulty in feeding, being small they are usually not as susceptible to internal parasites as their larger cousins. The reason so many predatory fish have internal parasites is because they are fed diseased dying fish and fresh dead fish along the way. If these guys get fed by their suppliers, it's usually brine shrimp. Refusing to eat sometimes can point to interna parasites, with these guys it's more likely that the right foods just haven't been offered. But if you see stringy poo, then treatment would be necessary. Care must be taken as these guys sometimes don't even tolerate general cure, Splitting the dose into 3rds and giving at least 4 hrs between 3rds works, sometimes. You must assess their reaction as it goes.

Don't pollute, sometimes when trying to feed a fish that won't eat, we end up polluting our tanks. Black worms can quickly pollute a tank, as well as other live food that dies in the tank. As well as continually squirting some mysis in their face. Ammonia kills.

Once they are eating, offer a variety as one single food may cause a digestion issue. And you can overfeed these guys. Eventually after you fatten them up, they do need a fast period between each meal, just like their cousins. I usually feed every other day. Feed them welk on feeding day, stick with smaller food items as to not overfeed. If they don't swallow something to large, they wilk usually just refuse and not overeat. Overfeeding usually comes from feeding too often.

Here's the thread I wrote shortly after I got my trio, pics and some good info included.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/paracentropogon-zonatus-1st-impressions.699714/
 
I've had a trio of little cuties for 3 years now; I've seen an explosion of interest and new additions of these guys of late. I've also seen some struggles and confusion of care and what to expect from really, a unique little predator. Yes these guys are predators, they are in the Scorpaenidae family along with lionfish, and do take special considerations in care and especially feeding. I usually post in the Predator forum but thought more would find this post here. If you have read any of my threads, most of the same rules apply to these little guys.

1st know your source, they do not tolerate copper. If your lfs runs copper in their system, this wilk cause liver damage, and eventually liver failure. This can occur quickly like after the stress of a move, or out of nowhere several months down the line. You can take the chance but just be aware that this can happen. They are very sensitive to any chemicals; that means Vibrant, Chemiclean, Flatworm Exit, any such tank cleaners of pest eradicators, etc.

Feeding, many times they will need live food initially, so be advised and prepared. If you have a good pod population especially amphipods, this will usually satisfy until you get them taking other foods. They will usually take to target feeding through a pipette within a couple of weeks or so; Pe mysis, Hikari mega marine,m and fine minced seafood combo are my favorite offering. Some live foods may include black worms, brine shrimp, very small ghost shrimp, and even guppies. For these guys to really thrive, you must target feed them. People that broadcast feed and expect these guys to fend for themselves, usually find they wither away after a few months.

Difficulty in feeding, being small they are usually not as susceptible to internal parasites as their larger cousins. The reason so many predatory fish have internal parasites is because they are fed diseased dying fish and fresh dead fish along the way. If these guys get fed by their suppliers, it's usually brine shrimp. Refusing to eat sometimes can point to interna parasites, with these guys it's more likely that the right foods just haven't been offered. But if you see stringy poo, then treatment would be necessary. Care must be taken as these guys sometimes don't even tolerate general cure, Splitting the dose into 3rds and giving at least 4 hrs between 3rds works, sometimes. You must assess their reaction as it goes.

Don't pollute, sometimes when trying to feed a fish that won't eat, we end up polluting our tanks. Black worms can quickly pollute a tank, as well as other live food that dies in the tank. As well as continually squirting some mysis in their face. Ammonia kills.

Once they are eating, offer a variety as one single food may cause a digestion issue. And you can overfeed these guys. Eventually after you fatten them up, they do need a fast period between each meal, just like their cousins. I usually feed every other day. Feed them welk on feeding day, stick with smaller food items as to not overfeed. If they don't swallow something to large, they wilk usually just refuse and not overeat. Overfeeding usually comes from feeding too often.

Here's the thread I wrote shortly after I got my trio, pics and some good info included.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/paracentropogon-zonatus-1st-impressions.699714/
How have you enjoyed the trio?
 
The pipette method, start by shutting down pumps and gently squeezing a bit of food onto the substrate in front of them. I usually don't feed them this way when they are perched in the rocks, too much waste. Keep the pumps off for a few minutes and they will eat the food from the substrate. Eventually when they start to associate the pipette with food, they'll start to come up and take it from the end. While some may seem to be doing fine by scrounging on their own, most will fade away over time if not target fed.

 
1st know your source, they do not tolerate copper. If your lfs runs copper in their system, this wilk cause liver damage, and eventually liver failure. This can occur quickly like after the stress of a move, or out of nowhere several months down the line. You can take the chance but just be aware that this can happen. They are very sensitive to any chemicals; that means Vibrant, Chemiclean, Flatworm Exit, any such tank cleaners of pest eradicators, etc.
I know this isn’t a super active feed because it’s older, but I’m hoping to get a response on this as soon as I can. I have a pretty bad cyano outbreak in my tank and I don’t know that anything will work aside from using chemiclean. When you say pygmy wasps are sensitive to chemicals, does that mean it’s life threatening? Or is it more of a temporary stressor? My wasp as an individual fish is fairly hardy when it comes to stress (i.e. he spent 4 months at the lfs in a 15g tank with tangs, gobies, blennies, puffers, wrasses, and angels rotating in and out of the tank, all while nitrates were consistently above 40ppm and sometimes close to 80ppm.) But I don’t want to risk losing him or causing long term damage to him. I haven’t been able to find any sources explaining what the short or long term effects are when using chemicals on a tank with pygmy wasps, so I’m really hoping you might know if it could be okay to do.
 
following I would love more knowledge on these fascinating fish.
 
I have had these guys for 5 + years always catching them in nsw Australia…. Look I haven’t done anything special for mine… he eats and scoots around with a broadcast feed and he’s a chubby lil Pygmy , my cockatoo Pygmy I do need to target feed as he is up against my sargent major damsel, humbug damsels and a greedy blenny, as well as my baby peacock mantis shrimp ( not a inch long yet)
My cockatoo is chemical sensitive, and well sensitive everything like the drama queen he is,
My other I don’t lift a finger for .. so I guess up to each individual fish…
 
I think these guys would do fine in a 13.5. The smaller tank would just make finding and target feeding the fish easier (though larger tanks have the advantage of a self sustaining food source).
Going with clowns is always a gamble. Some can be really well behaved in smaller tanks, others can be absolute monsters. IMO the scorps are too expensive to risk that combo in that small of a tank.
 
I think these guys would do fine in a 13.5. The smaller tank would just make finding and target feeding the fish easier (though larger tanks have the advantage of a self sustaining food source).
Going with clowns is always a gamble. Some can be really well behaved in smaller tanks, others can be absolute monsters. IMO the scorps are too expensive to risk that combo in that small of a tank.
I’m thinking I might get one, even though a pair would be better, just so it would be less aggressive
 
Thank you very much btw. I still think I want to try as I love both fish, but I’m definitely going to take it slow and make sure that all the fish are happy in the tank. I’ve read through a lot of your threads and the lion guys threads on these fish, but do you have any additional advice about them. Again thank you.
 
Don’t be surprised if it disappears for a long time. This probably won’t be as big a deal in a 13.5, but still a concern. My current rooster went at least 4 months where I figured it was dead only for the fish to pop up 2 weeks ago looking fat and happy.

I tend to be paranoid with clowns, but I’ve also had bad luck with them and tankmates. Every fish is different. I’d recommend having a backup plan/extra tank ready if things go south.
 
Don’t be surprised if it disappears for a long time. This probably won’t be as big a deal in a 13.5, but still a concern. My current rooster went at least 4 months where I figured it was dead only for the fish to pop up 2 weeks ago looking fat and happy.

I tend to be paranoid with clowns, but I’ve also had bad luck with them and tankmates. Every fish is different. I’d recommend having a backup plan/extra tank ready if things go south.
Well for now I’m planning on letting the tank establish once I set it up. And then eventually get a pair of clowns and probably coral, the Pygmy would be last into the tank simply because it’s too expensive to start my first tank with and I wanted more experience.
 
Well for now I’m planning on letting the tank establish once I set it up. And then eventually get a pair of clowns and probably coral, the Pygmy would be last into the tank simply because it’s too expensive to start my first tank with and I wanted more experience.
Sounds good - they definitely would do better in an established tank.
That said, in a perfect world clowns should be the last fish added just to avoid them seeing any new fish as competitors for space. Rearranging the tank scape with new additions can have a similar effect.
 

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