melypr1985
totally addicted
Water change and running carbon in the filter.
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- Thread starter arvind
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Water change and running carbon in the filter.
I would lower the Cu level ASAP until you get the correct test kit. Just in case you overdosed the copper (which can kill fish).
I also must stress that any detectable ammonia can be harmful to fish. Low level ammonia burns their gills; higher levels can damage a fish’s gills, liver and kidneys, usually resulting in death within a few days.
I also must stress that any detectable ammonia can be harmful to fish. Low level ammonia burns their gills; higher levels can damage a fish’s gills, liver and kidneys, usually resulting in death within a few days.
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arvind
Active Member
50% water change does not seem to change the color in the Ammonia Alert badge. Can I push the water change to 80-85%?
On that note, I am doing 50% or over water change every day. Is there a better way to manage the ammonia?
On that note, I am doing 50% or over water change every day. Is there a better way to manage the ammonia?
Is there still copper in the water? If not, have you double checked the ammonia reading using a test kit? The ammonia alert badges are fine, but don't always take their reading as gospel.
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arvind
Active Member
Did ammonia test using Api kit as well. Have not been adding copper since last two days. So I suspect any copper left in the tank. Waiting for the copper test kit to arrive today.
Once I confirm that I don't have any copper in the water, can I add bio Spira for quick cycling? This will give better handling on ammonia for me. I can then proceed with copper safe starting tomorrow.
Let me know what you think. Thx
Once I confirm that I don't have any copper in the water, can I add bio Spira for quick cycling? This will give better handling on ammonia for me. I can then proceed with copper safe starting tomorrow.
Let me know what you think. Thx
You'll want to add Bio-spira a few days before dosing copper, so the bacteria can get established before being hit with copper (which will kill some of their numbers but not all.). What bio-filter are you using to house the bacteria?
I would remove the rock before dosing copper.
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arvind
Active Member
Ok. Just tested for copper and it shows less than 0.25 ppm. Can I still add bio Spira or should I try and take out the remaining copper before adding it?
Cupramine or Coppersafe? It makes a big difference when determining therapeutic levels.
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arvind
Active Member
Coppersafe.
Therapeutic range for that is 1.5-2.0 ppm, so a 0.25 concentration should be low enough not to kill bacteria. I'd say go ahead & add Bio-spira.
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arvind
Active Member
While waiting for your response, looked up Coppersafe website and it says Therapeutic range is 0.15 ppm - 0.20 ppm ????
http://fritzaquatics.com/faq/what-is-the-therapeutic-range-for-copper-in-an-aquarium/
??http://fritzaquatics.com/faq/what-is-the-therapeutic-range-for-copper-in-an-aquarium/
While waiting for your response, looked up Coppersafe website and it says Therapeutic range is 0.15 ppm - 0.20 ppm ??
http://fritzaquatics.com/faq/what-is-the-therapeutic-range-for-copper-in-an-aquarium/
I have a call into Fritz now requesting clarification. Coppersafe is supposed to be chelated copper, which has a minimum therapeutic dosage of 1.5 ppm. 0.15 ppm - 0.20 ppm is the range for pure copper sulfate pentahydrate which is typically only used by wholesalers & public aquariums due to the precise testing that is required.
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arvind
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I called them and spoke to one Andy. He insists it has to be between 0.15 ppm-0.20 ppm. I searched the internet and everywhere it says that for Coppersafe the theapeutic dosage should be beweeen 1.5 ppm - 2.0 ppm. I am confused to say the least. I retested using Seachem testing kit while Andy was on the phone and it showed 0.40 ppm and Andy said I have overdosed and this would kill all fish.
Andy suggested that Seachem is a better a kit for testing while using Coppersafe. He received complaints from few customers using API kits and therefore he recommends Seachem.
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arvind
Active Member
I decided to validate the results. Took two gallons of fresh water (ro/di) and added 2.5 ml CopperSafe. Tested it using API test kit. It showed 2.0 ppm.
Fritz website is showing wrong information. I am going to call Andy tomorrow and share this information.
Fritz website is showing wrong information. I am going to call Andy tomorrow and share this information.
melypr1985
totally addicted
No offense to andy, but I've been using API to test our Coppersafe at the store and haven't had any issues with it. Nothing against Seachem or anything, but I don't see a reason for you to have to go and buy yet another test kit for this. I will also say that we keep our fish only tanks at 2.0 with no problems. Not sure what Andy is reading from, but I'm betting he's just repeating what's on their website. Sorry for the confusion.
I spoke with the same gentleman (nice guy BTW). And not to sound rude or arrogant, but I believe he is wrong about some things. For one, he doesn't understand that mg/L and ppm are essentially, one and the same. He told me that 0.15 - 0.20 ppm (as stated on their website) would be equivalent to 1.5 - 2.0 mg/L (which is wrong). I believe this misunderstanding is the source of all the confusion. You can share this article with him if you like: http://www.milwaukeeinstruments.com/pdf/mg per liter and ppm.pdf
Being the correct therapeutic range is, in fact, 1.5 - 2.0 ppm (or mg/L) then API copper is the only hobbyist grade test kit which measures in the high range. Seachem copper test kit does not (maxes out at 0.80 mg/L).
You might also inform him that Cupramine is not chelated copper like Coppersafe. It is ionic copper, most closely related to pure copper sulfate. You can show him this to verify that: http://www.seachem.com/downloads/articles/Cupramine.pdf
Go easy on the guy.
melypr1985
totally addicted
Poor Andy. He's about to get some learn'n
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