Question about t5 fixtures.

[Christopher Davis]

What bulbs did you start with? Are those fixtures capable of handling 10k bulbs??

I would say they are definitely capable, I mean what exactly do you mean? 10k is just the spectrum that you are achieving right? It's still a 54w bulb and that is what the fixture is rated to handle.

 

[Christopher Davis]

What made you buy them at first? Did you start with a fish only tank?

Was looking to reduce energy costs from a metal Halide fixture.

 

[twilliard]

Nice thread topic!
So I use the storm controller and am thinking of adding some T5 to my tank.
Any suggestions on an interface for the storm to T5 ballasts?

 

[mcarroll]

Well makes sense since Orbits are such crappy lights.

Any light is crappy if you use it wrong. Duh.

 

[TheEngineer]

Nice thread topic!
So I use the storm controller and am thinking of adding some T5 to my tank.
Any suggestions on an interface for the storm to T5 ballasts?

Looks like that controller outputs 5V PWM. You just need to find a ballast that is controlled by that :)

 

[mcarroll]

Lux measured from an iPhone ap at 9 months just a rough estimate.

Bulbs appear to be 10"-12" off the water - true?

Nice! :)

Assuming you were running a single Orbit Pro before, a dual-strip Orbit IC setup would probably be more comparable to what you're running now. It would cover a lot more of the top and provide much wider coverage. Two strips would definitely be required. And honestly, if you added a second Orbit Pro, it would have been a lot more similar as well. You'd have them dialed back a bit though.

"Coverage" starts at the emitters, and more emitters over more of the tank's surface area will always be better. Your present fixture has lights from front to back and side to side – "full up".

I suspect peak intensity at your water surface (probably around 600 PAR) hasn't changed much, (assuming you had a standard setup with the tank full and the Orbit Pro sitting on the tank) but the area covered by that 600 PAR has increased tremendously.

And the way the light is spread out now vs then is much different as well....this is a big reason why the tank "looks" brighter. More light is leaving the tank. Lux/PAR surface measurements don't reveal this, but it's obvious. And you can still measure the difference with your meter. The tight lenses on the Orbit Pro have a lot to do with this as well.

How many watts are you running total on the current system?

 

[twilliard]

Looks like that controller outputs 5V PWM. You just need to find a ballast that is controlled by that :)

I will dig into that, I have a pile of Icecap ballast and wish I could find hack for the schematic on the dimmer control.

 

[TheEngineer]

I will dig into that, I have a pile of Icecap ballast and wish I could find hack for the schematic on the dimmer control.

Are they dimmable? I've got a couple old T12 ones. They didn't immediately appear dimmable to me. Do you have a schematic for them?

 

[twilliard]

Are they dimmable? I've got a couple old T12 ones. They didn't immediately appear dimmable to me. Do you have a schematic for them?

I have searched for several years now for a schematic of the 660's dimmer circuit with no luck. I have 4 of these guys but they over drive the T5's at 100%

 

[mcarroll]

The Icecap dude works for CoralVue now...can you contact him through them?

 

[twilliard]

The Icecap dude works for CoralVue now...can you contact him through them?

I sent a request some time ago with no response. I didn't ask for the schematic (they wouldn't release that to me even though I am a licensed electronics repair business)

 

[TheEngineer]

I sent a request some time ago with no response. I didn't ask for the schematic (they wouldn't release that to me even though I am a licensed electronics repair business)

Got a high resolution image of the guts of one? Maybe they aren't that complicated.

 

[BigJim]

I started with three Kessil A360WE on a 72" tank and was able to keep SPS with success. I added four Miro t5 retrofits from BRS to improve coverage and have been happy with the results. They come with a good ballast and good reflectors to take the guess work out of it.

 

[gus6464]

Any light is crappy if you use it wrong. Duh.

There is such a thing as crap lights who are crap no matter how you use them. The orbits are such lights.

 

[mcarroll]

There is such a thing as crap lights who are crap no matter how you use them. The orbits are such lights.

Orbit Pro's can be misused – the same as any light.

They happen to be a pretty smart design in their own right.

Do you ever read your own posts? They are the most crass I see on Reef 2 Reef.

 

[gus6464]

Orbit Pro's can be misused – the same as any light.

They happen to be a pretty smart design in their own right.

Do you ever read your own posts? They are the most crass I see on Reef 2 Reef.

Didn't realize agreeing with someone about something being crappy is crass. Good to know.

 

[Christopher Davis]

Bulbs appear to be 10"-12" off the water - true?

Nice! :)

Assuming you were running a single Orbit Pro before, a dual-strip Orbit IC setup would probably be more comparable to what you're running now. It would cover a lot more of the top and provide much wider coverage. Two strips would definitely be required. And honestly, if you added a second Orbit Pro, it would have been a lot more similar as well. You'd have them dialed back a bit though.

"Coverage" starts at the emitters, and more emitters over more of the tank's surface area will always be better. Your present fixture has lights from front to back and side to side – "full up".

I suspect peak intensity at your water surface (probably around 600 PAR) hasn't changed much, (assuming you had a standard setup with the tank full and the Orbit Pro sitting on the tank) but the area covered by that 600 PAR has increased tremendously.

And the way the light is spread out now vs then is much different as well....this is a big reason why the tank "looks" brighter. More light is leaving the tank. Lux/PAR surface measurements don't reveal this, but it's obvious. And you can still measure the difference with your meter. The tight lenses on the Orbit Pro have a lot to do with this as well.

How many watts are you running total on the current system?

I was running 2x current pro fixtures

 

[Christopher Davis]

How many watts are you running total on the current system?[/QUOTE]

Bulbs are 8 inches off water surface and I believe 220w

 

[mcarroll]

I'm glad you like your lights and they are clearly working well.

 

[FiremanRick]

I would say they are definitely capable, I mean what exactly do you mean? 10k is just the spectrum that you are achieving right? It's still a 54w bulb and that is what the fixture is rated to handle.

For some reason I was under the impression that 10k lights required some special equipment. Not sure where I got that from...