Question for Plumbing Experts

[MickeyCT]

I'm in the middle of moving my sump from beneath the tank to the basement. I have an external return pump (Iwaki 100RT) that will be at the front edge of a counter near a support 4x4. The 4x4 supports a beam crossing the floor joists above in support of the tank and has been there since tank was set up in 2004. Output will go through a true union ball valve to an elbow then will go over the sump to the back of the counter; and then up the wall, to the right a few feet, through the floor back to the tank. I will use support clamps at the wall. Should I also use a support clamp after the ball valve using the 4x4? Is it safe to have a support clamp there so close to the pump outlet given the likely vibrations? I was going to add the elbow directly after the ball valve, but would it be better to use a short piece of 1" pipe between the two?

Mickey

 

[mues]

Generally I'd recommend at least using a makeup piece instead of what I assume you are saying will be a ball valve with a street 90. Some would argue that it doesnt matter, but for comfort's sake I like the short makeup piece. Strap some insulation on the pipe if you strap it where it is vibrating and you will be fine.

 

[MickeyCT]

Thanks.

 

[Dburr1014]

You are not using flex hose after the pump?

Clamp and it will sound like a truck driving through the house.

Why the ball valve after? Do you have one before the pump?

With flex hose before and after the pump, it mitigates any vibrations and will also reduce the Need For That Elbow.
A ball valve before the pump you can shut off the sump from the pump in case you need to work on it. I see the need for one after the pump but it might not be necessary, because once you shut the pump off the water will all flow backwards back into the sump and there'll be no more water coming out.

 

[MickeyCT]

Dan:
Flex hose from the sump to the pump. I could use some flex hose after the pump but I wasn't going to. I have a ball valve before and after in order to shut off the water both ways as a "just in case". The sump is moving downstairs to the basement so there is 10-12 feet of piping that would have water in it. Plus my return is on a SeaSwirl that is 1-2" below the surface of the water in the tank and without a ball valve after the pump it will all drain down. I don't want a check valve that would need periodic maintenance. I'd rather have a ball valve I can just shut off when needed.

I'll think about making some adjustments to incorporate some flex hose after the pump as well. I can probably use flex to go from the pump across the sump to the back wall and put a ball valve there.

This project of moving my sump to the basement has turned much bigger than originally anticipated. I've run into numerous issues dismantling plumbing that's been there for almost 20 years and several small "floods" already. I decided to start a tank thread as a way to document things so at least I remember. Several hard lessons learned already!

Mickey

 

[Dburr1014]

Dan:
Flex hose from the sump to the pump. I could use some flex hose after the pump but I wasn't going to. I have a ball valve before and after in order to shut off the water both ways as a "just in case". The sump is moving downstairs to the basement so there is 10-12 feet of piping that would have water in it. Plus my return is on a SeaSwirl that is 1-2" below the surface of the water in the tank and without a ball valve after the pump it will all drain down. I don't want a check valve that would need periodic maintenance. I'd rather have a ball valve I can just shut off when needed.

Just want you to think about the pump. It vibrates. If it's hard plumbed, the pipe will vibrate. If the pipe is fastened to a hard wood surface that will vibrate.
I had to listen to my wife a few nights while lying in bed and why we had this low hum. It was keeping her awake and well, me too.

Also, when you get a power outage, the ball valves won't throw themselves. How big is your sump? Will it hold all the extra water?
My basement sump is a 50 gallon Rubbermaid tub. It always runs about 35ish gallons and when the power goes out it comes about 1" below the lip.
Just be sure your sump is big enough to hold the extra water if your not home and something goes wrong.

 

[MickeyCT]

I do totally understand what you are saying about vibrations and that too concerns me. Also concerned about properly supporting the plumbing.

Sump should be big enough to hold all the water, at least that's the plan. We'll see when I finally get it set up and get the water in the new sump.

 

[Dburr1014]

I do totally understand what you are saying about vibrations and that too concerns me. Also concerned about properly supporting the plumbing.

Sump should be big enough to hold all the water, at least that's the plan. We'll see when I finally get it set up and get the water in the new sump.

18" of silicon hose is all that's needed to dampen any vibrations. I opted for braided hose after the pump to the tank and spa flex hose before.

Post pics in progress!

 

[MickeyCT]

Will do.