Questions about RODI Filter setup and Water Mixing Station

Fish Fan

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Hi guys! I'm sorry in advance this is so long ;-)

I would really like to put together one of those two bucket watch change/mixing stations and I'd really like to ask some questions, please. I'm really looking for something fairly simple but safe, nothing overly complex, I just want fresh RODI and saltwater on hand. I've already done quite a lot of searching for these stations, and I've looked at many examples, some very complex, but in my research I can't find anyone that has gone into detail about all the various valves and safeguards that you obviously need for these setups. So my first question right off the top is: does anyone know of a good writeup/diagram/video that DETAILS all the various fittings used in a typical system? I'm talking about things beyond RO fittings and bulkheads, I'm talking about the safety devices that can minimize flooding. That would be really helpful!

Beyond that, let me mention that I have a simple, budget RO system under the kitchen sink for the house, and had purchased the BRS Dual DI kit to add to this when I decided to get back into reefing. However, a few weeks ago I found a forum member offering a used BRS 75gpd 6 stage system, and I will be using this system for my water change station. I purchased the used BRS 6 stage system, I also ordered from BRS the Matrix media kit and a replacement Dow RO membrane. I also purchased the BRS 150gpd upgrade kit. Additionally, I happen to have already a brand new HM Digital TDS meter that gives 3 readings, and I have a brand new psi gauge I want to use. Again, I'm looking for a simple two bucket system, almost certainly Brute cans, maybe 20-44 gallons each.

A couple quick RO filter questions, please: Keeping in mind I will be using the BRS 150gpd upgrade kit, running 2 RO membranes in series, I *believe* I want my psi gauge to be right before the first RO membrane. Is this correct? And, given that I have a TDS meter with three probes, where do you suggest I place those probes in my 7 stage system? For the fairly low cost of the meters, is there any value in getting another TDS meter to read at any other points in my system?

As far as the RO filter setup itself, I really want to do it right, and the more I research, the more confused I get, lol! I plan on setting up my system in our basement laundry room right over our "slop sink" (you know those basement sinks every home has). This room is also my very humble woodworking shop, and although I'm not a great woodworker, and don't have the most expensive tools, it would be devastating to me personally if I had a flood in this room and damaged any of my machines, materials I'm saving, or frankly anything else. That said, the saving grace is that if you were standing directing in front of my sink, our laundry washer is directly left of the sink, and our sump-pump area is directly left of the washer. Therefore, I *believe* any flooding would likely run into the sump, and never really gain much depth at all, but I still really want to avoid any floods ;-)

I have heard tale of solenoids being used to be able to shut off the source water is case of flooding. This I would really appreciate some help with. What/where are these devices? What other redundant backups and safegaurds are people using to avoid flooding when putting these water change stations together?

Some additional RO filter questions, just in general: I expect to have fairly high pressure at the site where I'm installing the filter, and I'll know for sure when I get it up and running with the psi gauge in place. I know to use my 150gpd upgrade kit I need a good 65psi, and if I don't see that I'll get a booster pump, but what if my pressure is too high? Is this where a flow restrictor comes in play? I expect that my source water will be very cold, I'm guessing 50's degrees F. How do you guys suggest I get that closer to the 70F range the RO membrane expects?

How do you handle things like flushing the RO membrane and TDS creep in a setup like I'm describing (ie a two bucket water change station) where the RO filter is permanently connected in place? Is it true that you want to run the RO filter system maybe once a week, making all your water at once, instead of having the filter system come on and turn off several times (such as if "topping up" all the time)? Strictly from the point of view of RO filter efficiency, the first way is best, right? Basically, turn on filter, bleed off high TDS initial output (TDS creep), fill water reservoirs, flush RO membrane, shut down filter. Is this the best way to run the system?

I have seen many systems where the second bucket is gravity fed from the first bucket with some PVC parts and valves. On a BRS video they simply have a three way valve that can be set so it fills each bucket, and, of course, each bucket has a float valve. To me, the BRS setup seems easier, but in my research I saw more people doing it the other way. Other than for space saving reasons, is there any benefit to having the second bucket gravity fed with water from the first bucket, or does anyone else use the method I saw on the BRS video?

Wow, sorry again this is so long, but I would really appreciate some help putting my system together. If anyone has any thoughts, please let me know.

Thank you for your help!

-FishFan
 

lapin

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So ya gots 2 buckets
You need to have a valve for the rodi. Put water in one then you change the valve over to have it put water in the other. Ok now they can both be filled. Oh I forgot and left the rodi on and it flooded my basement. Thats where a float valve or optical sensor apex controller ect....can help you out. I think you got that down.
Now since we can fill either barrel , there is no need to move water from 1 to the other.
Now all you need an ato for the fresh water tank.
On the other tank a pump to pump the salt water into the sump or tank and a pump to remove old water from the sump or tank, when you do a water change.
How you hook this up is up to you. You can hard plumb it with pvc and external pumps or use hoses and a pump that can be placed in the tank/sump or salt water mixed barrel as needed.
my ideas may or may not be what you want to know
 

lapin

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The rodi tds meters
I have one before the rodi unit, one after the ro, one after the first di, and one after the second di.
If there is a problem i can see what stage is causing it.
 
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Fish Fan

Fish Fan

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Hello! Thank you for your replies! Good to know about the TDS meters. As far as flooding, are the float valves in the two buckets really enough to prevent a flood? Maybe I'm over thinking this? It's not like I'm going to leave the system on unattended for days at a time. I'll also make sure the float valves are clean and functioning before starting my water making progress.

And, it sounds like you're a fan of using the three way valve to switch between filling each bucket? I too think this is the easiest way to go. I'm realizing I can use still another three way valve to drain off any high TDS water from TDS creep.

Thanks for your help!

-FF
 

JimFuller

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Well, the Brute cams are simple. I opted to stack easier with pre made units. I can provide complete information, if you so desire.

By the way, I went with a 150 GPD BRS RO/DI unit, even though we have whole house RO. I found metal fittings after the RO unit. Decided to be safe with the separate unit.

Tanjs are 75 Gallons each.
b97fe0edf3046dcaae7fedbfd93511e5.jpg
 
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Fish Fan

Fish Fan

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Hi, Jim! Thank you for your reply and photos! Yes, I had for a while been considering getting a BRS unit dedicated to the aquariums. Safer for the aquariums, and easier on the household too, I feel. I would very much appreciate the details of your system, if it's not too much trouble. You'll see from my initial post I'm a little confused by all this.

To get started, my plan is to setup the filter system going into a three way valve, then into the two buckets, through a float valve in each bucket. I was just about to order the float valves and three way valve now. I think this is actually a good start. I'm realizing that these float valves might just be all I need as I'm not going to leave the system completely unattended for days on end. I may forget by an hour or two to come shut of the water, and that's where the float valve will catch it, and that's all I need. I think maybe I was overthinking the flood issue. When I'm done making water, I can shut off the whole system, so now worries outside of when I want to make water. Does this make sense?

So what do you guys do (if anything) to warm the source water going into the RO filter? Mine will be very cold for sure. Do you make any special provisions to drain off high TDS water caused by TDS creep in between RO filter use?

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the help!

-FF
 

SuncrestReef

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I don't heat the RODI water. I do heat my saltwater, primarily to improve mixing time and to make salinity measurement more accurate, since the salinity varies with temperature. My RODI filter has a manual on/off valve from my house plumbing, then it flows into the RODI storage container with a float valve. Once the tank is full, the float valve blocks any new water from entering. I took it a step further and added an optical sensor with my Apex so I get an automated alert to remind me to turn off the manual valve, but that's not really necessary since the float valve achieves the same effect. But it is an added layer of safety.

In my saltwater storage/mixing tank, I have a heater and an Apex temperature probe. A basic heater with adjustable thermostat would achieve the same goal of heating the saltwater to my desired temp of 78F.

I use a basic external pump to move water between the tanks, and to circulate the saltwater tank during mixing. It's just a matter of turning the appropriate valves to decide where the water is pumped.

For convenience, I also elevated both tanks and added spigots at the bottom of each so I can easily dispense either RODI or saltwater into buckets if needed. Lastly, I have a cam-connect hose adapter so I can run a hose from the mixing station to my tank if I want to do a larger water change without hauling buckets.

IMG_2764.jpg
 
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Fish Fan

Fish Fan

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That's a great looking system! Very much what I'm imagining. Thank you for sharing your setup and posting the pic!

One question I have is are you filling one container with RODI water, then pumping it over to the other container to fill both containers. Or, do you have the RODI coming into both containers with a float valve on both containers?

Thank you for your help!
 

homer1475

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I think you'll find the typical setup is to just fill one container with RO/DI with a float valve to shut it off. Then pump into the second container to mix in. This is how I also have mine setup.
 

SuncrestReef

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That's a great looking system! Very much what I'm imagining. Thank you for sharing your setup and posting the pic!

One question I have is are you filling one container with RODI water, then pumping it over to the other container to fill both containers. Or, do you have the RODI coming into both containers with a float valve on both containers?

Thank you for your help!

I only fill the RODI tank. Then I use the pump to move water to the mixing tank.

Glad you like it!
 
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Fish Fan

Fish Fan

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Hi guys! Sorry, I didn't see these additional replies, but thanks again for the help!

@homer1475 - That's nearly exactly what I'm imagining as I too will likely use the Brute cans. I have one clean 44 gallon already I can use, though two of those maybe too large for my current space. I have to admit, I like the look of some of the other containers I've seen, but the Brutes are cheap as so many people have used them that I think they are universally accepted as reef safe.

Anyway, I do have a follow up question, if anyone is still out there. I'm realizing that nearly everyone is using a single large, external pump and a series of vales, pipes, etc. to pump the water from container to container, to circulate the saltwater container, and even to move water directly to the aquarium/sump or elsewhere. Can someone suggest a good pump I could use for this application? Prefer a budget oriented model, or perhaps a popular one I could pick up used.

Thanks for the help everyone!
 
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Fish Fan

Fish Fan

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Hi guys! Sorry, I didn't see these additional replies, but thanks again for the help!

@homer1475 - Anyway, I do have a follow up question, if anyone is still out there. I'm realizing that nearly everyone is using a single large, external pump and a series of vales, pipes, etc. to pump the water from container to container, to circulate the saltwater container, and even to move water directly to the aquarium/sump or elsewhere. Can someone suggest a good pump I could use for this application? Prefer a budget oriented model, or perhaps a popular one I could pick up used.

Hey guys! Any thoughts on what to look for in an external pump for a water change station? appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks in advance!
 
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Fish Fan

Fish Fan

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I guess these pumps are a closely guarded secret, huh?
 
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Fish Fan

Fish Fan

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I use the lowest cost Current Pump. It works great. Inexpensive and control able.
Hello! Thank you for the tip! I didn't realize those pumps (Current eFlux DC series??) could be used externally, but I'm reading about them now.
 

Alex M

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I don't heat the RODI water. I do heat my saltwater, primarily to improve mixing time and to make salinity measurement more accurate, since the salinity varies with temperature. My RODI filter has a manual on/off valve from my house plumbing, then it flows into the RODI storage container with a float valve. Once the tank is full, the float valve blocks any new water from entering. I took it a step further and added an optical sensor with my Apex so I get an automated alert to remind me to turn off the manual valve, but that's not really necessary since the float valve achieves the same effect. But it is an added layer of safety.

In my saltwater storage/mixing tank, I have a heater and an Apex temperature probe. A basic heater with adjustable thermostat would achieve the same goal of heating the saltwater to my desired temp of 78F.

I use a basic external pump to move water between the tanks, and to circulate the saltwater tank during mixing. It's just a matter of turning the appropriate valves to decide where the water is pumped.

For convenience, I also elevated both tanks and added spigots at the bottom of each so I can easily dispense either RODI or saltwater into buckets if needed. Lastly, I have a cam-connect hose adapter so I can run a hose from the mixing station to my tank if I want to do a larger water change without hauling buckets.

IMG_2764.jpg
@SuncrestReef Looking to get my RODI set up properly... I have the same pump and 2 55g noresco water tanks. Can you help with a list of plumbing pieces (unions, valves, elbows) that you used o this build? It's great and hopefully I can replicate something similar! Thanks!
 

SuncrestReef

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