Rapid mouth/gill movements and not eating. Specific gravity is way too high! (PLEASE HELP)

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greatestgrandma

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Did use any chemiclean for cyano? Was the new saltwater mixed for a few hrs at least before water change?
No, I didn't use chemiclean for cyano since I heard that you shouldn't use it as it will kill other bacteria. The saltwater mixed for about an hour before the water change.
 
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Well, this tank should not be in a cycle unless you had a huge die off somewhere. What is your filtration? Powerheads? Protein skimmer? Etc.
Looks like tang and angel and clown that can be seen. The angel and tang will be tough in a 50g long run.
You could very well have a oxygen issue.
I am currently using a canister filter if that was what you were asking.
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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excellent. here are some facts from your picture:

the tank has no free ammonia at dangerous levels, no corals would be open if they were and all fish would be panting at the top. I a working seneye meter would show your ammonia in the thousandths ppm, the safe conversion zone.

suspect is fish disease, upwelled or exascerbated during the rehoming and recent changes. that reef isn't in dying mode, shocked by salt levels, or the corals wouldnt be open

how recent is that pic

cyano has to do with the reasons anyone gets cyano; not related to your fish issue. bottle bac aimed at helping ammonia wont help here, the cycle status is no longer in question if the pic is from now.

anything you read on a tester about noncompliant ammonia wont factor; its not a seneye.

nitrite factors none at all here either. / tester.
 

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Do you have any powerheads that ripple the water at the top? Do you have an airstone anywhere? Have you cleaned the canister filter often?
 

DeniseAndy

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Wait, do you top off manually? You need to replenish water evaporated with fresh water. This will slowly increase your salinity and why you have a higher one now. Daily at least top offs are necessary.
 
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excellent. here are some facts from your picture:

the tank has no free ammonia at dangerous levels, no corals would be open if they were and all fish would be panting at the top. I a working seneye meter would show your ammonia in the thousandths ppm, the safe conversion zone.

suspect is fish disease, upwelled or exascerbated during the rehoming and recent changes. that reef isn't in dying mode, shocked by salt levels, or the corals wouldnt be open

how recent is that pic

cyano has to do with the reasons anyone gets cyano; not related to your fish issue. bottle bac aimed at helping ammonia wont help here, the cycle status is no longer in question if the pic is from now.

anything you read on a tester about noncompliant ammonia wont factor; its not a seneye.

nitrite factors none at all here either. / tester.
The picture was taken today
 
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greatestgrandma

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Do you have any powerheads that ripple the water at the top? Do you have an airstone anywhere? Have you cleaned the canister filter often?
No I do not have any powerheads or airstones. I have been cleaning the canister filter as instructed and I changed the carbon bags and filter pads during my water change on sunday.
 

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I am currently not using anything for auto top off.
if you dont do manual top off with fresh water, thats why your salinity is at 1.030, if we assume you mixed the instant ocean correctly.

also- you really should mix salt for way longer in order for it all to dissolve. if the newly mixed water was still cloudy, then you have undissolved salt particles in there, that are now in the fish gills, acting like little caustic rocks. not good
 
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Wait, do you top off manually? You need to replenish water evaporated with fresh water. This will slowly increase your salinity and why you have a higher one now. Daily at least top offs are necessary.
Would it be safe to top off with bottled spring water or should I get a RO/DI system?
 

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You need to get some oxygen exchange in there. So, you need to get an airstone and air pump going right away. IMO Then you can look into getting a powerhead for the system. These provide the circulation you need for corals, dtritus, etc. Like the ocean and the constant movement of the water. This will help with the cyano too (possibly).
 

DeniseAndy

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I would invest in an RO/DI unit. It will save you lots in the long run. Also, salt should be mixed up at least 24 hours prior to use. They even say up to 48 hrs for Instant Ocean. I have waited only 4 hours in emergencies, but made sure to add airstones and good flow in mixing tub.
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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its also handy to know in the interim that spring water w be ok. it wont harm corals or the biosystem, it'll boost up a little bit of cyano or window scum since the tank selects for it.

Ive used dasani before in my tank several times lol and its all jacked on tds.
 

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I am currently not using anything for auto top off.
DeniseAndy beat me to it. Adding in RODI water daily in the amount that is evaporated keeps your salinity stable. Otherwise it rises as water evaporates as salt stays in the tank. There are many ways to accomplish this from expensive to cheap. A Google search or search on here will get you in the right direction.

If you can't get RODI water I would go distilled. Most grocery store will sell this by the gallon. The foodmax in my area does.

Also YouTube is very helpful. I would recommend Bulk reef supplies 5 minute tank series or 52 weeks of reefing.
 

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Several suggestions.

Run to Walmart and get a battery operated pump that comes with an airstone (sporting goods area). Grab a CLEAN Bucket. Mix new water in it at 1.024. and to temperature. Get fish into that bucket. run air stone.
Give the tank a good siphoning going after the cyano bacteria and refill with distilled or RO water which most pet stores will sell. Clean and repack the canister filter. Actually while at Walmart, also get a hang on power filter which will add surface movement, added filtration and carbon for polishing.
After tank is repacked, test water or have a trusted LFS test it for you and see where your ammonia, nitrate, ph and salinity are at.
Below is a chart you can refer to assure you are in range in the future.

Power filter:

1588692746932.png




Parameters.png
 
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greatestgrandma

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You need to get some oxygen exchange in there. So, you need to get an airstone and air pump going right away. IMO Then you can look into getting a powerhead for the system. These provide the circulation you need for corals, dtritus, etc. Like the ocean and the constant movement of the water. This will help with the cyano too (possibly).
Thank you so much
DeniseAndy beat me to it. Adding in RODI water daily in the amount that is evaporated keeps your salinity stable. Otherwise it rises as water evaporates as salt stays in the tank. There are many ways to accomplish this from expensive to cheap. A Google search or search on here will get you in the right direction.

If you can't get RODI water I would go distilled. Most grocery store will sell this by the gallon. The foodmax in my area does.

Also YouTube is very helpful. I would recommend Bulk reef supplies 5 minute tank series or 52 weeks of reefing.
Thank you
 
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greatestgrandma

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Several suggestions.

Run to Walmart and get a battery operated pump that comes with an airstone (sporting goods area). Grab a CLEAN Bucket. Mix new water in it at 1.024. and to temperature. Get fish into that bucket. run air stone.
Give the tank a good siphoning going after the cyano bacteria and refill with distilled or RO water which most pet stores will sell. Clean and repack the canister filter. Actually while at Walmart, also get a hang on power filter which will add surface movement, added filtration and carbon for polishing.
After tank is repacked, test water or have a trusted LFS test it for you and see where your ammonia, nitrate, ph and salinity are at.
Below is a chart you can refer to assure you are in range in the future.

Power filter:

1588692746932.png




Parameters.png
Thank you so much
 

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