Rapid tissue necrosis? Something else?

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Can you post a close up of the corals under whites?

I prefer to get them out of the bag water asap. It’s stagnant and no gas exchange and who knows what else maybe growing in the water while traveling.

Is it possible they got fried by light? At least one looks like a chalice? They can be light sensitive. What is the par where you placed them?
they went at the bottom, par is very low. I dont have a par meeter but i use the same schedule and light setup as someone on youtube who had 80 par at the bottom
 

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So aside from using the bag water which I would prefer fresh tank water. I don't think you did anything to cause the issue. Faded edges is concerning. Maybe they got too hot or too cold which you would have no way of knowing unless you could feel or measure the temperature as soon as the package was opened but if they got too hot early in the shipment you would have no way of knowing. Hence the issue with DOA for most coral. Most don't disintegrate in the bag during shipping unless it's REALLY bad and takes multiple days.. but then vendors don't claim to cover delays in shipping anyway.

I see the comments on the low Mg. Ca also a little on the low side which makes me wonder if your salinity is correct. How are you testing salinity and calibrating your tester?
 
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So aside from using the bag water which I would prefer fresh tank water. I don't think you did anything to cause the issue. Faded edges is concerning. Maybe they got too hot or too cold which you would have no way of knowing unless you could feel or measure the temperature as soon as the package was opened but if they got too hot early in the shipment you would have no way of knowing. Hence the issue with DOA for most coral. Most don't disintegrate in the bag during shipping unless it's REALLY bad and takes multiple days.. but then vendors don't claim to cover delays in shipping anyway.

I see the comments on the low Mg. Ca also a little on the low side which makes me wonder if your salinity is correct. How are you testing salinity and calibrating your tester?
They came from queen city corals in NC up to me in NH, so for sure could have had a temp swing but they packaged it pretty well. That mag reading of 1100 was a mis-test. It read at 1415 last night when I tested. I use a hanna digital salinity tester that I calibrate around once a month or so.
 

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Magnesium is notoriously difficult to test with a home tester. I think even the Hanna is something like a +- 50ppm. Sounds like everything is good on your side. Pale edges makes me think they got too hot. Maybe while they were sitting in NC. Vendors don't often understand the risks of heat packs. Heat is more damaging than getting chilly for LPS. I have had LPS arrive at 58 F and be perfectly fine.. 88 is often dead but they don't show it for days/weeks. I would contact them at least.. maybe they will do something. Would still like to see a closeup white light photo when you get a chance.
 
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Magnesium is notoriously difficult to test with a home tester. I think even the Hanna is something like a +- 50ppm. Sounds like everything is good on your side. Pale edges makes me think they got too hot. Maybe while they were sitting in NC. Vendors don't often understand the risks of heat packs. Heat is more damaging than getting chilly for LPS. I have had LPS arrive at 58 F and be perfectly fine.. 88 is often dead but they don't show it for days/weeks. I would contact them at least.. maybe they will do something. Would still like to see a closeup white light photo when you get a chance.
Ok, thanks for the input. I just didn't want to reach out if I was the reason they didn't make it. And that makes a lot of sense, a 6in x 6in cube box with the heat pack less than an inch from the corals. I had an icp done a few weeks ago and the mag was right around 1400, I just completely glazed over the reading of 1100 when i was doing my routine tests.
 

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Tanks a little over a year old but I had like a half crash ~6 months ago. Yeah I just beat cyano and now dealing with some mild Dino’s.
What is a half crash?

I think we need to know about the crash and how you managed dealing with it.

What brought on cyano, The crash?

When dealing with cyano, did you immediately get dinos?
How did you deal with the cyano?
And how are you dealing with dinos?

This sounds like a water quality issue and I hope we can get to the bottom of it to fix it for you.

Edit: it could be shipping, I'm concerned with past crash and lots of times people resort to chemicals as first defence. Just trying to rule that out. :)
 
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What is a half crash?

I think we need to know about the crash and how you managed dealing with it.

What brought on cyano, The crash?

When dealing with cyano, did you immediately get dinos?
How did you deal with the cyano?
And how are you dealing with dinos?

This sounds like a water quality issue and I hope we can get to the bottom of it to fix it for you.
Thats what I fear, I just do not know what to look for past the basic testing elements.

I had a heater fail on me that I didnt notice for 2 days and my tank dropped to room temp (70). I lost all my corals besides my 4 duncans, a candy cane and a random lps, pretty sure its some sort of favia. I lost my cleaner shrimp and 6line, my clowns survived. After the crash I replaced the rock with some live from from a lfs, new heater and let it be for a while to stabilize. Just recently started adding new corals and none of them have been taking off. Expect my 4 duncans that are doing amazing.

Cyan came from bottomed out nutrients that I fixed and went away pretty quickly. Then dinos, there not super bad just buildup on the sandbed over a few days. Im trying to lower my po4 slightly to help with the dinos and am currently dosing microbater and doing manual removal.
 
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Edit: it could be shipping, I'm concerned with past crash and lots of times people resort to chemicals as first defence. Just trying to rule that out.
Nope I have not added any sort of chemical to my tank. I used to dose afr (have since stopped since theres no coral to uptake, and weekly water changes are enough now)

My filtration consists of a filter roller and a mini carbon reactor.
 

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No help but I've had two of my tanks drop to 70 and 71 over the last month or so when I forgot to turn the return pumps back on. Nothing in the tank showed any signs of stress. One tank is all acros.
I also see you use a Hanna salinity tester. Do you have any other way to test salinity like a refractometer with calibration fluid or a hydrometer? I ask because i have two Hanna testers and they always read 0.002 lower than actually when calibrated using Hannas fluid. I don't trust either one
 
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No help but I've had two of my tanks drop to 70 and 71 over the last month or so when I forgot to turn the return pumps back on. Nothing in the tank showed any signs of stress. One tank is all acros.
I also see you use a Hanna salinity tester. Do you have any other way to test salinity like a refractometer with calibration fluid or a hydrometer? I ask because i have two Hanna testers and they always read 0.002 lower than actually when calibrated using Hannas fluid. I don't trust either one
its all i have, they did match up with the salinity of my icp tho
 

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I threw away my Hanna salinity checker. Would read different values for water in a container or water in the aquarium etc etc..

Salinity could certainly be a concern for corals going into a new system. I agree 70 for 2 days should not be an issue for anything in the tank. Something else up regarding that. As for the new corals I still think it's a shipping issue based on the speed you say they declined unless there is something really off with the tank but I don't really see an indication on that. Phosphates are kinda high but I have had them way higher and no problem with LPS. Pics of the corals close up and overall tank pics with white light would help a lot.

I would be careful using other peoples claims, or manufacturer claims to par level. What lights, power level and distance to water etc are you using? I would suggest renting or borrowing a par meter from a LFS if you can or BRS or local reefer. Some fairly reasonably priced meters on Amazon that do a decent job and I hear others use an app for their phone.. Not sure I would trust that but might be better than nothing.
 
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I threw away my Hanna salinity checker. Would read different values for water in a container or water in the aquarium etc etc..

Salinity could certainly be a concern for corals going into a new system. I agree 70 for 2 days should not be an issue for anything in the tank. Something else up regarding that. As for the new corals I still think it's a shipping issue based on the speed you say they declined unless there is something really off with the tank but I don't really see an indication on that. Phosphates are kinda high but I have had them way higher and no problem with LPS. Pics of the corals close up and overall tank pics with white light would help a lot.

I would be careful using other peoples claims, or manufacturer claims to par level. What lights, power level and distance to water etc are you using? I would suggest renting or borrowing a par meter from a LFS if you can or BRS or local reefer. Some fairly reasonably priced meters on Amazon that do a decent job and I hear others use an app for their phone.. Not sure I would trust that but might be better than nothing.
Im not 100% sure it was only 2 days, theres a chance it could have been longer, up to around a week.

I know its not idea to just copy a light schedule offline but I found someone with the same tank, same lights and growing the same kind of coral I want to and I adjusted my mounts to match theirs exactly.
 

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I had a heater fail on me that I didnt notice for 2 days and my tank dropped to room temp (70). I lost all my corals besides my 4 duncans, a candy cane and a random lps, pretty sure its some sort of favia. I lost my cleaner shrimp and 6line, my clowns survived.
I'm going to agree with the other posters. A drop in temp to 70 is on the bottom end. Coral loss, maybe, if long enough. Fish loss, I'm struggling to believe that because of lower temps. Low 60's I can see but not 70.
After the crash I replaced the rock with some live from from a lfs, new heater and let it be for a while to stabilize.
Why did you replace the live rock? Something wrong with the old rock?

Funny story, long story why, but I won't go into that here; I have live rock in my basement, no heater, no water movement except my 1 gallon AWC a day. You should see the sponges that grow on them. Still alive and well. My basement temperature is probably mid 60's.
Just recently started adding new corals and none of them have been taking off. Expect my 4 duncans that are doing amazing.
That's good!
Cyan came from bottomed out nutrients that I fixed and went away pretty quickly. Then dinos, there not super bad just buildup on the sandbed over a few days. Im trying to lower my po4 slightly to help with the dinos and am currently dosing microbater and doing manual removal.
Okay, thanks. Lowering po4 won't help dinos. A Pic of tank in white light would be helpful.

Could very well be shipping stress then.
I would try a lfs or a local reefer for another easy coral and try again.
 
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Why did you replace the live rock? Something wrong with the old rock?
There was nothing wrong with it, but I got rock from this one store that was absolutely amazing, i had been running it in my other tank and It was a godsent. So i decided that was the perfect time to make the trek to get more of it and swap it over.
 

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Wow ok. I just got in 4 corals from Queen City corals. Put them in around 11 and just got home from work and two of them are completely toast. All white in a matter of 8 hours. What should I be testing for to see what is causing this? My tank is relatively new, about 10 months. And there’s very few corals in it right now but everything else has been fine (not flourishing but fine)

Salinity - 1.025
Temp - 77
Nitrate - 11.7
Phosphate - 0.17
Alkalinity- 8.5
Magnesium- 1100
Calcium - 421
Ph - 8.2
IMG_0467.jpeg
Your MAG is a little low. Did you temp acclimate? What where the parameters of the tank they came from compaired to yours? Acclimation is key. I had so many SPS die because my ALK was swinging too much.. stability is key. Also the lighting that they came from may be quite different from yours. In some cases light acclimation is also needed.
 
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My biggest fear is there is some sort of pollutant that I cant detect, but judging by my fish and inverts and the few existing corals are fine thats not the case.

Am I correct to assume that? Or could there be something that my tank has got used to and everything new is being negatively effected.
 
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When dealing with cyano, did you immediately get dinos?
How did you deal with the cyano?
And how are you dealing with dinos?
I just realized i said dinos....I have diatoms, a mild case of diatoms came after the cyano.

I dont have the dreaded dinos. Sorry I always get them confused.
 

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