Recovery Ventilators (ERVs/HRVs) – The Golden Ticket to High & Stable pH?

gws3

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I wanted to share my experience with Recovery Ventilators as they don’t seem to get a lot of attention in the Reef Hobby. I’ve seen mention of them in a few threads/videos from Adam of Battlecorals and Than of Tidal Gardens, but not much beyond that.

They come in two flavors: Heat Recovery Ventilators (HRVs) and Energy Recovery Ventilators (ERVs). Both are used to bring in fresh outside air while expelling stale inside air. The have a core where the two air streams cross over each other, exchanging heat in an attempt to bring the outside air temperature as close as possible to the inside air temperature. The intent is that you recover the energy that was used to heat or cool the inside air, hence “recovery ventilator”. HRVs exchange heat, while ERVs exchange both heat and moisture.

I have three reef systems totaling about 1500 gallons, with almost all of the tanks located in my basement. I use evaporative cooling, so keeping humidity down is always a challenge. If humidity gets too high, my tanks will heat up until the threshold is reached where I have my Apex shut off the lights.

I’ve installed inline air intake and exhaust fans to exchange inside air with outside air as one means of controlling inside air temps and CO2 levels. During Spring and Fall when there are days of rain, higher temps, and humidity near 100% I cannot bring in outside air as it’s too warm and humid to permit evaporative cooling. During these periods I’ve observed high CO2 levels, lowered pH levels in the tanks, and less stability with alkalinity. I believe I’ve also experienced a negative impact to coral health as a result. I suspect high CO2 resulting in low pH and less alkalinity stability could be one of the reasons people experience seasonal losses.

I already use oversized skimmers with fresh air intakes. I’ve tried CO2 scrubbers, but the media exhausts very quickly. I’ve also used kalk in the past, and while I know a lot of people have success with kalk, I find kalk reactors prone to clogging and other issues. I’ve even used lye instead of sodium carbonate as the alkalinity portion of two-part, but that comes with handling and impurity concerns.

A few months ago I pulled the trigger and installed a RenewAire EV Premium L ERV. It has Electrically Commutated (EC) motors, so it runs very efficiently at lower speeds. It also has a boost function where you can close a circuit to have it run on demand at 100% speed. I control its power and boost circuit via Apex outlets based on CO2 levels. I’m monitoring CO2 via the Apex as well. I have it turn on to a low speed whenever CO2 is above 600 ppm, and boost mode (max speed) when it’s above 700 ppm.

Since installing the ERV my pH is higher, extremely stable, and my alkalinity is rock solid as a result. It’s one of the best investments I’ve made for the reef tanks, so I wanted to take some time to share my experience.

Here’s a plot of pH in one of my systems and the CO2 level in my basement prior to installing the ERV. This was during winter so I can bring in fresh air while the lights are on, but it’s too cold to bring in fresh air during the night. During the aforementioned high humidity periods my CO2 levels would get much worse than this, sometimes approaching 2000 ppm when it would rain for several days on end.

1705000120373.png


Here’s a plot after the ERV was installed. My average pH has increased by 0.15.

1705000130891.png


A few pics of the ERV installed:

1705000188753.png


1705000209306.png
 

Tub Life

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Awesome that you did this for the tank.
Most homeowners would do this for themselves, benefit for the tank would just be a byproduct.
What pH are you aiming for?
My daily pH swings from 8.4 to 8.49, I thought it was a kinda high value but haven't researched it either way.

I'm more curious if this has affected humidity levels, especially with all the tanks you have.
 
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gws3

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Awesome that you did this for the tank.
Most homeowners would do this for themselves, benefit for the tank would just be a byproduct.
What pH are you aiming for?
My daily pH swings from 8.4 to 8.49, I thought it was a kinda high value but haven't researched it either way.

I'm more curious if this has affected humidity levels, especially with all the tanks you have.
Haha, yeah I think I often treat my tanks better than myself. It's keeping the CO2 levels low throughout the house, so we're getting the benefits as well.

My goal was to keep the pH at night from dipping below 8 and just keeping it high in general.

8.4 to 8.49 is interesting... that's quite high unless you're using a lot of kalk or similar. Also, less swing than I typically see. Do you calibrate and clean your probe often?

So far it's helped with humidity levels. It's winter so the outside is dry. Even though the ERV is recovering some amount of humidity, the net effect is still less humidity indoors and I've noticed my dehumidifiers running less frequently.

Nice...but expensive investment

It was about $2k for the unit and installation materials. I did the install myself. Considering what I have invested in livestock, relatively speaking it's not expensive.
 

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It is on my todo list at my house. If I would have speced the HVAC on our house there would have been one installed when the house was built. I think most new house should have them installed but no builder is going to install one on a spec house unless required to.
 

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I ran one of those drawing exhaust from the enclosed hood above my aquarium years ago. After a few years the xflow radiator rotted out so I tossed it. I think your setup drawing exhaust air from the room instead of an enclosed hood should make that not be an issue for you.
 

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I looked at doing the same for my home but was incredibly intimidated by the install. Impressive job. Any resources you can share that helped you plan and understand how to do it?
 
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I looked at doing the same for my home but was incredibly intimidated by the install. Impressive job. Any resources you can share that helped you plan and understand how to do it?

Take a look below at the install manual for the one I bought. The diagrams may help clear up the install. They're often tied into the existing HVAC system. I did it as a standalone install in my basement and the CO2 on the main floor is being maintained as well, so I don't see any real benefit to the more complex approach of tying it into the HVAC system.

It's not a very difficult job at all. It entails cutting two 6" holes in your rim joist, installing wall vents, and running insulated flexible ducting (rigid ducting will have less airflow losses but can be a pain to install). You'll also likely want a 6" motorized damper on the supply line from the outside air so that you don't have a draft when the unit is off. The ERV model I got provides 24VAC electrical output for the damper which makes it easier. The ERV comes with a wall plug, so you don't need to run a dedicated circuit or anything.


As far as selecting a unit the idea is to pick one with enough air flow for your application and go with the most efficient one you can afford. HVI publishes certified efficiency numbers:


I picked an oversized unit knowing my application (a basement filled with reef fish tanks) is atypical. It also has electrically commutated motors (variable speed) so you can run it as a lower and more efficient speed when demand is lower. I did a good amount of research and am very happy with the Renewaire Premium line. I purchased mine from Positive Energy and they were great to deal with.
 

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I wanted to share my experience with Recovery Ventilators as they don’t seem to get a lot of attention in the Reef Hobby. I’ve seen mention of them in a few threads/videos from Adam of Battlecorals and Than of Tidal Gardens, but not much beyond that.

They come in two flavors: Heat Recovery Ventilators (HRVs) and Energy Recovery Ventilators (ERVs). Both are used to bring in fresh outside air while expelling stale inside air. The have a core where the two air streams cross over each other, exchanging heat in an attempt to bring the outside air temperature as close as possible to the inside air temperature. The intent is that you recover the energy that was used to heat or cool the inside air, hence “recovery ventilator”. HRVs exchange heat, while ERVs exchange both heat and moisture.

I have three reef systems totaling about 1500 gallons, with almost all of the tanks located in my basement. I use evaporative cooling, so keeping humidity down is always a challenge. If humidity gets too high, my tanks will heat up until the threshold is reached where I have my Apex shut off the lights.

I’ve installed inline air intake and exhaust fans to exchange inside air with outside air as one means of controlling inside air temps and CO2 levels. During Spring and Fall when there are days of rain, higher temps, and humidity near 100% I cannot bring in outside air as it’s too warm and humid to permit evaporative cooling. During these periods I’ve observed high CO2 levels, lowered pH levels in the tanks, and less stability with alkalinity. I believe I’ve also experienced a negative impact to coral health as a result. I suspect high CO2 resulting in low pH and less alkalinity stability could be one of the reasons people experience seasonal losses.

I already use oversized skimmers with fresh air intakes. I’ve tried CO2 scrubbers, but the media exhausts very quickly. I’ve also used kalk in the past, and while I know a lot of people have success with kalk, I find kalk reactors prone to clogging and other issues. I’ve even used lye instead of sodium carbonate as the alkalinity portion of two-part, but that comes with handling and impurity concerns.

A few months ago I pulled the trigger and installed a RenewAire EV Premium L ERV. It has Electrically Commutated (EC) motors, so it runs very efficiently at lower speeds. It also has a boost function where you can close a circuit to have it run on demand at 100% speed. I control its power and boost circuit via Apex outlets based on CO2 levels. I’m monitoring CO2 via the Apex as well. I have it turn on to a low speed whenever CO2 is above 600 ppm, and boost mode (max speed) when it’s above 700 ppm.

Since installing the ERV my pH is higher, extremely stable, and my alkalinity is rock solid as a result. It’s one of the best investments I’ve made for the reef tanks, so I wanted to take some time to share my experience.

Here’s a plot of pH in one of my systems and the CO2 level in my basement prior to installing the ERV. This was during winter so I can bring in fresh air while the lights are on, but it’s too cold to bring in fresh air during the night. During the aforementioned high humidity periods my CO2 levels would get much worse than this, sometimes approaching 2000 ppm when it would rain for several days on end.

1705000120373.png


Here’s a plot after the ERV was installed. My average pH has increased by 0.15.

1705000130891.png


A few pics of the ERV installed:

1705000188753.png


1705000209306.png
Curious how are you using the Apex to monitor CO2 levels?
Was there a specific meter you found that will connect to the Apex and display measurements on the dash board?
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Since installing the ERV my pH is higher, extremely stable, and my alkalinity is rock solid as a result. It’s one of the best investments I’ve made for the reef tanks, so I wanted to take some time to share my experience.

Just addressing the stability part of the discussion, an ERV/HRV is not going to greatly alter the daily pH swing size, except to the extent that the swing is naturally a bit smaller at higher pH because seawater is better buffered at the high end of the pH range we encounter in reef tanks.

It will, certainly, reduce the swing caused by sudden influxes of CO2, such as cooking with gas at a big meal, or people and pets coming and going from the room.

I'd also comment that food grade sodium hydroxide carries no more impurity risk than do most any other alkalinity supplements used.
 
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Curious how are you using the Apex to monitor CO2 levels?
Was there a specific meter you found that will connect to the Apex and display measurements on the dash board?

You can use a CO2 meter with an analog 5V output connected to a Neptune ASM module. You likely need to buy the ASM module directly from Neptune in order to buy it without the PAR meter.
 

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You can use a CO2 meter with an analog 5V output connected to a Neptune ASM module. You likely need to buy the ASM module directly from Neptune in order to buy it without the PAR meter.
TY

One more question, which CO2 monitor do you have. I have an ink bird plus but no output..
 
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TY

One more question, which CO2 monitor do you have. I have an ink bird plus but no output..
The ones I use are ACI / Senseair. Input power is 24VAC/DC. Range is 0-2000 PPM, and you'll want 0-5VDC output as an option. Ebay is a good place to look.
 

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