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I've not heard that before and I don't believe it to be true. What nutrients is this even supposed to apply to? Can't be nitrogen if you are feeding that one. Phosphate? Adding nitrate does not typically make bacteria begin to consume phosphate unless you are adding organic carbon too. Also, if that were it, GFO should work better for dinos as well, which it does not appear to.
Bacteria (in general, at least) are not limited in reef tanks by the availability of nitrate and phosphate until they are super low. That is why organic carbon dosing is capable of driving nutrients very low, becuase bacteria are limited by available organics, and they consume the inorganic nutrients that are available WHEN they have enough organic matter.
If we are talking about reducing trace metals, such as iron, I'm not sure adding nitrate is the best way to accomplish that.
I agree it's confusing to me. The dirty method suggests to stop water changes, stop skimmer or feed the skimmer's export back into the tank, remove any mechanical filters, etc. The clean method of course complete opposite. Vacuum everything constantly, reduce all nutrients to undetectable levels, etc. There's a decently long thread over at RC in the chem section just titled Dinoflagellates. It goes back on forth on what the current trend is. I think right now its the "dirty" method.
I've posted in it a couple times giving my experience with Dino along with a myriad of many of nuisance pests like GHA, cyano, and bryopsis. My experience has just been to maintain some patience, sanity, and consistency.
From my last post there
But I don't strive for clean or dirty and have no idea which I fall into. My parameters for nitrate and phosphates are low. But my sump is full of detritus I never touch. I don't use filter socks or other typical mechanical filtration. The flow in my display tank is setup now to keep detritus suspended until sucked down the overflow to my sump where it becomes food and home to many critters.
For exports:
- I harvest algae via an ATS
- I do ~1% automatic water changes daily exporting stuff.
- I've used vinegar for years and dosed ~100ml/day for 200g total water volume.
- I don't run mechanical filters besides a skimmer which I use for aerating the water and removing bacteria that has consumed nitrates and phosphates.
- Carbon dosing via vinegar ~100ml/day. But recently experimenting with a vodka/vinegar mix dosing ~36ml/day.
- I dose limewater which was via ATO and right now experimenting with limewater dosing separate from my ATO.
- I add a small amount of Mg to that water change water. I need to reduce that amount.
- ~1% daily automatic water changes importing stuff
- I feed a lot. 4 times per day I have an automatic feeder dump some NLS Marine/AlgaeMax pellets. I hand feed 2-3x per day some meaty food maybe ~2-3 cubes worth. A sheet of nori per day. This brings in a lot of phosphates, trace elements, vitamins, minerals, etc. Plus increases urea dosing nitrates to my tank.
I didn't touch the dino's this time around and just watched them. Pictures of their peak and eventual decline earlier in this thread.
Edit: and to define a few things as that's kind of out of context and not a complete copy paste.
Nitrates have always been below 5ppm. Since testing with other nitrate kits that can detect below 5ppm my nitrates are constantly below 1ppm.
Phosphates are consistently around .03ppm and recently lower. My last test was ~ 0.01
Many of my results were posted recently in many test kit "shoot out" threads.
Vodka/vinegar mix are in a ratio mixed up to 690ml vinegar and 310ml of vodka based on TMZ's mix from the RedSea NOPOX thread exposing what's in it. No water added.
and my Mg supplement used to be Tech-m but switched a few years ago to a Mg Chloride/Sulfate I mix together myself now for cheaper. Using Randy's ratio for those using Kalk
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