Red Sea, what the heck

[Maho.B]

So I have a Red Sea Max S reef tank and there is a "valve" on the back of it that regulates the water level. I am so sick of this thing. It will all of a sudden "gurgle" a little due to the water level going slightly above the overflow pipe. I then open the valve, slowly by the tiniest turns until the water level is just below the overflow pipe and the gurgling is gone. An hour or two later and the gurgling is raging, and the water level is all the way down to the bottom of the chamber. Then to get the water level back up to stop the gurgling it literally takes 20 times more little turns of the valve than it needed to get it that way! SO frustrating! What gives? Is this the most rediculous design or is it just mine??? Thanks.

 

[gkprevite]

So I have a Red Sea Max S reef tank and there is a "valve" on the back of it that regulates the water level. I am so sick of this thing. It will all of a sudden "gurgle" a little due to the water level going slightly above the overflow pipe. I then open the valve, slowly by the tiniest turns until the water level is just below the overflow pipe and the gurgling is gone. An hour or two later and the gurgling is raging, and the water level is all the way down to the bottom of the chamber. Then to get the water level back up to stop the gurgling it literally takes 20 times more little turns of the valve than it needed to get it that way! SO frustrating! What gives? Is this the most rediculous design or is it just mine??? Thanks.

Those valves are terrible

 

[Maho.B]

The worst. Ironically with all the posts/talk on the forum about maintenance with there reef tank, this valve is the higher maintained item for me! I am literally needing to adjust it throughout the day almost everyday. I can't recall in months going two full days without the gurgling starting and need adjustments. So dumb

 

[Jamie814]

Are you certain the valve is the issue? Some valves are easier to tune than other but the opening within the valve stays consistent unless you change it, so the water volume through the valve will not change unless the back pressure increases or decreases or something gets caught in the valve.

If you have wavemakers or powerheads that vary flow rates in your tank they could cause small surges into your overflow causing water level fluctuations which will cause more or less water through the drain line.

Your return pump flow can also vary slightly even if it is DC and on a constant mode due to sump water level from ATO's or slight voltage changes. Even the slightest sump water level change will change the flow rate due to head pressures.

Combining all these can lead to the issue you are having.

 

[BeanAnimal]

It is what happens when a large vendor copies somebody else’s design but doesn’t really understand it?

 

[Maho.B]

Are you certain the valve is the issue? Some valves are easier to tune than other but the opening within the valve stays consistent unless you change it, so the water volume through the valve will not change unless the back pressure increases or decreases or something gets caught in the valve.

If you have wavemakers or powerheads that vary flow rates in your tank they could cause small surges into your overflow causing water level fluctuations which will cause more or less water through the drain line.

Your return pump flow can also vary slightly even if it is DC and on a constant mode due to sump water level from ATO's or slight voltage changes. Even the slightest sump water level change will change the flow rate due to head pressures.

Combining all these can lead to the issue you are having.

Thanks, this makes total sense... exactly why their design does not.

Much appreciate the input, thank you.

 

[exnisstech]

RS diaphragm valves are a pain. I'm on my second RS tank and if it didn't have a seam failing I would convert it to a gate valve as I've seen done. I do find having a water trickle down the e drain is fine. Too much and t's noisy but trying to keep it below the e drain is when the fun begins with the constant adjustments.

 

[Maho.B]

RS diaphragm valves are a pain. I'm on my second RS tank and if it didn't have a seam failing I would convert it to a gate valve as I've seen done. I do find having a water trickle down the e drain is fine. Too much and t's noisy but trying to keep it below the e drain is when the fun begins with the constant adjustments.

I'm in the same boat...front right seam is starting to fail, I'm planning on moving to a Cade or Innovative Marine so I won't be messing with the valve either. I can't get over how poorly designed it is. Oh also, on the Max S like mine, RS thoughtfully put the valve on the back so it's 6 inches from a wall making maintenance fun.

 

[ClownSchool]

I had your problem in mine and discovered it was snails and hermit crabs that had figured out how to get into the overflow. Their shells were clogging the valve.
I pulled the plumbing out and it rattled like a maraca.
My center light bracket kept me from using the overflow cover. So, I cut a square out of the back of the cover with a dremel and it’s worked fine since.

 

[exnisstech]

I'm in the same boat...front right seam is starting to fail, I'm planning on moving to a Cade or Innovative Marine so I won't be messing with the valve either. I can't get over how poorly designed it is. Oh also, on the Max S like mine, RS thoughtfully put the valve on the back so it's 6 inches from a wall making maintenance fun.

My old 170 valve was way in the back. My current g2 300 is up front but still just as annoying. I've taken the valves apart to inspect and clean but that never helped. Its just not a good design.

 

[gkprevite]

Are you certain the valve is the issue? Some valves are easier to tune than other but the opening within the valve stays consistent unless you change it, so the water volume through the valve will not change unless the back pressure increases or decreases or something gets caught in the valve.

If you have wavemakers or powerheads that vary flow rates in your tank they could cause small surges into your overflow causing water level fluctuations which will cause more or less water through the drain line.

Your return pump flow can also vary slightly even if it is DC and on a constant mode due to sump water level from ATO's or slight voltage changes. Even the slightest sump water level change will change the flow rate due to head pressures.

Combining all these can lead to the issue you are having.

It’s just a very fussy valve. It’s sensitive to adjustment, when adjusting you need to turn it the tiniest amount then check back later. If you notice a difference right when you’re adjusting, you went too far. Replacing it with a nice gate valve solved the problem for me.

 

[MadreeferNJ]

I was about to make a post about this since its my 1st Red Sea. The gurgling is so annoying. If i knew this before setting it up a few months ago would have replaced the valve. Now it will be a PITA after its up and running.
Does anyone have a tutorial I can follow on how to replace the valve?