I think this whole reef-pi thing is a kind of like a beta test, because each build is so unique and there isn't a 1 size fits all solution, but that is the thing I love about it.
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I think this whole reef-pi thing is a kind of like a beta test, because each build is so unique and there isn't a 1 size fits all solution, but that is the thing I love about it.
Diamond, I noticed you used aviation plug connectors on your build, did you use ethernet cable to build the leads that run from one box to another?
Glad it turned out ok! Im chicken and dont trust the optical sensors so went with the two float switches in series.
I was considering using 18 gauge thermostat wire for the aviation plugs as it is solid core and can have up to eight cores shieldedYes the aviation connectors are running from my controller to my lights with a cat5 cable. I thought they would be a good choice, they are kinda hard to solder but make for a good solid connection.
I used 18 gauge solid core wire inside my light fixture to run from the AV connectors to the drivers and it was much easier to solder than the cat5.That was my primary concern, how difficult it would be to solder 24 AIG wire. I'm building a parts list to order next week. I'll start a thread once parts are ordered.
I was hoping frog-pi would be the frontrunner. And nice tank!
I have just merged a feature to automatically disable ato when the pump usage goes above the alert threshold. While working on this I also found and fixed an alert logic bug. This will be shipped as part of 2.2 soonish.OK so I had my first major issue with reef-pi. My ATO has been working great and doing it's job keeping my water level where it needs to be. Last night the power went off for about an hour and when reef-pi restarted the ATO ran until the ato container was empty dumping about 1 1/2 gallon of water into the system.
I just noticed it when I went this morning to fill my ATO and saw the pump was still running and the container was empty. Not a huge deal as it only changed my salinity from 1.026 to 1.025 and the pump didn't burn up.
I'm just glad it didn't happen when the reservoir was full. So after a water change with some strong salt mix I got my salinity back to where it needs to be.
I did some testing on the sensor to check that it was working properly and found that when I put the sensor in water the outlet controlling the pump is staying on no matter if the sensor is in or out of the water.
Could it be the sensor got damaged with the power going off? Or maybe something in the software?
I seem to remember reading somewhere that there was an issue with these sensors not responding correctly if reef pi starts and the sensors are submerged but I can't find the post now in the mega thread.
@Ranjib any ideas?
Thanks for that.I have just merged a feature to automatically disable ato when the pump usage goes above the alert threshold. While working on this I also found and fixed an alert logic bug. This will be shipped as part of 2.2 soonish.
https://github.com/reef-pi/reef-pi/pull/699
Amazing!Thanks for that.
I dont trust the optical either. I have done alot of work with industrial controls, and there are reasons that fluid levels in industry are still controlled with mechanical floats. They are simple to understand, easy to set up and bullet proof in operation.Glad it turned out ok! Im chicken and dont trust the optical sensors so went with the two float switches in series.
Home depot also sells a 4 conductor 18awg stranded cable by the foot. In store its called security system cable, stranded takes solder better than solid conductors.I used 18 gauge solid core wire inside my light fixture to run from the AV connectors to the drivers and it was much easier to solder than the cat5.
Can't wait to see your build thread!
For sure, I love it!I like Frog-Pi better. With your blessing, I'll use that.
Okay sorry for the hijack.
For sure, I love it!
......I was going to suggest Herp.-pi but thought better of it;Wacky