Reef2Reef Pest algae challenge thread hydrogen peroxide

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brandon429

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why did you put a reef in that
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That's an ideal scenario for sure

But where is the thread of someone adding detritus, skimmate and sb worms to an invaded system for a few pages and getting equal after pics (the inverse of our procedure to test its validity)

hard to attain tank cure threads by adding waste to systems...all we do is remove it and insert a kill step along the way and provide the pics. I think that successful hands off systems didn't import upon setup the invaders that would take over a tank, easy invaders were all that rode in, so it makes the method seem reliable. Dino tank owners feel literally lied to by hands off reefing as a universal tank assembly method


I'm hoping to show that techniques must change in order to get ten tanks in line vs what works for one, appreciate the input as well, all ideas need counter challenges so that whatever filters through is gold

Your system reminds me a lot of Paul's aged and balanced system, truly they are ideal balances but this is hard to replicate, that's why it's the domain of masters.

I'm wanting to show you can make reefs attain better lifespans and not lose tons and tons of rocks and animals in starting tanks as do overs if you arrive at what the masters do, not start like they do.

The masters are prescribing an approach that when replicated, works really well for 5% and really problematic for the other portion. By starting off using the method we use to correct invaded tanks, any new keeper protects their investment and animals.

Clean reefing works for everyone, then in time once mastered in excluding unwanteds, anyone can revert to storage mode and buy pods to add, become classic reefing as a delayed and not initial approach. An earned timing for the tank, not a requisite start.

Res publica, even if given an ordered step by step ops for hands off reefing, can't reproduce it successfully like we can produce compliant tanks with hands on reefing, we will outpace them after year 2 by 80% uninvasion or better. This is no judgement, I'm res publica, and had to reef hands on to be able to earn hands off years down the line, and I lost my first reefbowl to a preventable red algae invasion only because I didn't know about kill options...information and hesitation psychology took my first reef, not chemistry or tank params, I only needed one of those events to be shocked into action.


Merely the beneficial debate of hands off vs hands on reefing affects how a new reader now will approach reefing, a psychological component at the core of their entire budding reef procedure, not a chemistry one. They're either going to purposefully farm invaders a while and then incrementally work back to hopefully regain ground, or they won't, and they'll be proactive not reactive and they'll use work threads to see how the masses have done with any debatable technique.



My reefing paradigm is shaped 98% by what I can effect in others tanks and link for proof
 
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brandon429

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Case in point

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/detritus-is-it-as-bad-as-some-make-out.300047/

large thread building slowly

All science and reef sages there are advocating keeping detritus in a filthy sandbed but not one example of them wielding that successfully for others...especially in response to tank invasion management.


their examples still use detritus compounding offsets: GFO, ats filters, denitrators though I don't think they're bad they're just an example of offsets required when internal breakdown of proteins occurs.
 
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@brandon429

I agree 100% with your concept of “shock & awe”. Yes to full court press to take back tank from nuisance algae.

I have a unique challenge with nuisance algae on Dragon’s Tongue surfaces. Previously, I cut off contaminated part only and salvaged pieces to grow out. Now, all old growth is infected. So I tried to disinfect with hydrogen peroxide and killed macro but not nuisance algae. At this point, I am altering temperature to favor Pacific macro. Not knowing what else to do, in addittion to lowering the water temperature, decrease light intensity as recommended by ORA for this aquacultured macro. As a last resort, I am brining in the “little people”: 45,000 copepods to deal with the nuisance.
Meet them here. Go to bottom page of link.

https://www.algaebarn.com/product/5280pods/
 

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“Detritus has low to no impact on a reef tank”.

@brandon429
You should explain that quote better.

Obviously, we have differrent ideas of what goes into a reef tank. Can your clean tank keep Sea Apples, Flame Scallops or Chilli Coral. Obviously, I am “old school”.
 
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brandon429

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Post some green hair algae challenges we need some pep before the summer is over


Throw some good ones up let's test model, prove what we got, load some pics, then upscale and do a captain Morgan pose on the updated compliant reef.

Let's not factor tank nutrients one bit, as usual. Let's make detritus stop fueling the gha, bring em we will decloud them all.

Someone's got a green hair algae challenge going, I'm sure. If it's any tank under forty gallons consider it already fixed. I've got time for some new work let's find some noncompliant tanks and post them right up and analyze the post work pictures.
 
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image.jpg
Team

Post some green hair algae challenges we need some pep before the summer is over


Throw some good ones up let's test model, prove what we got, load some pics, then upscale and do a captain Morgan pose on the updated compliant reef.

Let's not factor tank nutrients one bit, as usual. Let's make detritus stop fueling the gha, bring em we will decloud them all.

Someone's got a green hair algae challenge going, I'm sure. If it's any tank under forty gallons consider it already fixed. I've got time for some new work let's find some noncompliant tanks and post them right up and analyze the post work pictures.
Here’s one.
 

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I don't usually post as I feel being only 8 months in to reef I have so much to learn by reading but I'm going to throw my experience in.

I've used h2o2 months ago to dip a sorry looking blasto frag I got from an uninformed LFS at 2 fir £5.

6% from a chemist and fully submerged for at least 6 mins (see, noob) anyway the LPS was fine and has gone from 1 head to over 10 in 7 months.

I current have a hair or turf algae problem that I can't shift. As Brandon stated the low nutrient thing didn't work, just left me with annoyed corals and dino. A blackout got rid of them along with heavy siphoning but the gha/turf looked unharmed.

I dosed kno3 and a little phosphate to keep the dino away and have what I deem acceptable levels at 2.5 nitrate and detectable (barely) phosphate. I assume the algae is grabbing all if not most.

I have downgraded my skimmer to a more suitable size and it is skimming much more consistently but even with bi daily harvesting the algae comes back stronger. I can't keep up.

Read through the posts and I'm on board with giving it a go. I get this is an attack on biomass and I am and will take measure to manage the things that can support it coming back, but once it has established itself it is very good and surviving, dare I say better that coral.

So, I irdered some 12% h2o2, mixed it down to 6% and dipped a rock. Used a syringe to repeatedly pour the h2o2 over the Rock and algae fir 5 mins. I didn't have enough solution to submerge. I will use this as a test and if successful purchase a larger bottle.

I could hear fizzing and bubbling as expected.

The Rock is now in the tank and the residual h2o2 has made its way around and appears (I hope) to be doing the job of a tank dose.

Corals are sulking and bubbles everywhere. It's 10pm here so we shall see in the morning.

If movement I will do another rock tomorrow night.

I am not sure how to do the rest as the main structure is cemented together and cannot be moved.

One question I have that I haven't seen answered, how long is h2o2 active in the tank? Does what ever dose that was out in become used up?
 

Reefdom

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Some pics before (2) and immediately after the rock treatment.

Also a before skimmer pic to see what comes out

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Just to report back my findings, the rocks that were fully dipped are still free of new algae. Spot treated areas are generally clear with just dead pieces of algae still attached. Some algae is returning in other places n the tank but cuc is being improved with nessarius, Cerith, trochus and a tuxedo urchin. Would love s blenny but I'm worried about my goby in a small tank.

I do t mind having some algae so happy for now as the tank is nowhere near as unsightly as it was.

Don't see many pops though. Coincidental? Not sure. Will be topping up later.

I have now removed gfo and run just nopox with 3 litres of matrix in a basket.

No measurable phosphate but there must be some as I have little bits of algae
 
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brandon429

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https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/dinos-algea-problems-that-i-cant-solve.406969/page-4


The reason those pages concern me is the bandwagon against manual intervention is large initially, but it’s crickets silence from the quorum on next actions when the invader triples over time.

I think it’s unfair to invaded reefers that a direct action sequence isn’t stickied up top in this forum. What’s up top is what made him wait five months with no turnaround. If dosing nutrients into your tank and waiting a long time doesn’t fix, then an invaded reef tank owner has covered the gauntlet of actions if we go off most important thread references featured.

There should be a sticky up top that features action, never hesitation based off param testing, and what manually controlled tanks look like when they’re ran that way from the start. Someone make a new thread called TAKING ACTION, sticky it, and we will fill it up with new case studies with fully opposite five month updates
 
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stefanm

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Right @brandon429 I'm ready to give this a shot, tank has been running saltwater for 7 months now, can't really detect phosphates or nitrates. Running NSW, though I did use synthetic salt during the rainy season for approximately 4 months.

I do have chaeto in the display which is a pain, I basically had a bunch given to me before I had set up my sump lights, as there was nothing in the display at the time, I let the chaeto be in the tank.

My tank is on a balcony, I shaded any direct sun out back in July or August, not helped the situation at all. I don't run much whites on my LEDs, though I do have higher natural light entering than most tanks.

Right now only one fish in the tank, a type of bristletooth tang, barely had an impact on the algae, I had a clown up until last Thursday, unfortunately she jumped during a thunderstorm. Chaeto in my sump grows well, I've tried a 16 hour schedule, no difference, also tried DIY nopox, though with only one fish in the tank it can leave nutrients too low, so I'm kind of dosing a very small amount.

The tank is 300 litres or approx 80 gallons after displacement and 220 litres or 50ish gallons in the sump.

Rocks are DIY, made from crushed shells, crushed oyster shells, calcereous beach sand, white portland cement and well water.

Flow is roughly 26 times the total water volume, calcium 520 ppm, alk 7.8 dkh and magnesium 1320 ppm.

Clean up crew, around 40-50 stomatella snails, 10 trochus (I think) snails and I've seen a baby trochus in there as well and a fair amount of mini brittle stars.

Only one small rock has corals attached, 3 frags of German blue digitata, all other frags and colonies aren't attached, all rocks can be removed, some are complete structures so will need help to remove.

So let me get this straight, to do this I would need to rasp as much algae from the target rocks, ideally in a bucket out of the tank, then out of water hit it up with peroxide, rinse and return.

No I feel I'd need to do this in 3 stages as follows.

1) remove all the smaller manageable rocks and keep them in the sump, these will be treated in a bucket separately after the display is clear. While I'm at it I'd give the sump a good Syphon.

2) the two main structures I'd need to rasp them in the tank, remove then treat with peroxide and return after scraping the glass walls and the bare bottom of the tank, followed by syphoning the tank well and running filter socks.

3) many frags are covered in algae, some I think are dead anyway, some are growing back, pretty sure it was the algae that suffocated them, so these I'd need to dip in a mix of salt water and peroxide, I had dipped some a few weeks ago, I used 100 ml sea water and 50 ml 6% peroxide for 20 seconds, this worked but needs a follow up treatment.

Have I got your concept right? And over how many days should I do this?

I forgot to add, 5 days back I covered the two main structures with black plastic, the algae underneath seams very much alive still!
 
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Well done! Pre pics are sharp

Those rocks are nice, we're just missing the lucky ideal grazer, and can cheat until we find one.

Your order of ops is perfect but one last tweak in prep for large tank job- pre modeling growback.

Before we begin, can you remove one test rock, dump peroxide across target, let sit undisturbed two mins in air, rinse off with saltwater, don't dislodge algae, and put back. Let's see if it's all dead by Wednesday, before we begin

Don't dip any corals in peroxide where rasping like a dentist would/targeting and exact/ with rinse allows. Frags included, test surgery precision on models first, that's our new peroxide way. I can't thank you enough for posting
 
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brandon429

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You are intercepting early on, before mass invasion, nice. Your normal pic rocks didn't even look invaded, took the special color to see

Also do one other test rock as a rasp run
 

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You are intercepting early on, before mass invasion, nice. Your normal pic rocks didn't even look invaded, took the special color to see

Also do one other test rock as a rasp run

Cool, I'll do one rock tomorrow morning, I'm half way round the world from you it's 1 AM here, so you'll get the interim result on Wednesday late evening...
 

stefanm

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This is the rock I dowsed in peroxide, the next day I realised that soaking in peroxide with saltwater was probably the better way of doing it, so I soaked it in around 2 litres of water and maybe 80ml of 6% peroxide, so two and a half days later this is what we've got....
IMG_20181102_180330.jpg


Definitely whited out, still bleached out strands are present, looks as though the algae is dying or dead as of now

So if I get free time tomorrow, I'll rasp and peroxide another Rock.

Is this the right thing to do?
 
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brandon429

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It's really changing the color base of the rock / the full application. Very powerful, I'd like to not burn off all the rocks that well let's seek lesser options. So glad we are pre tuning here

I'd like to treat less of an area, only a patch zone on future tests before we choose the one to upscale. We can keep an eye over a few more days on this big treatment, your rocks have nice color I want to avoid making them all white. In my opinion, on another rock I'd use a steak knife tip to drag and score algae off an endcap section of rock, surgical accuracy dislodge and dental rasp the algae at the base anchor point. Once patch area is cleared, mist spray peroxide at 3% level dilution on the area and let sit only 20 seconds, then rinse. Let's see if that's still white burning or if we can find a mid ground for kill but way less color loss
 

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Thanks @brandon429, I done the treatment today and took some photos, it's late now and I've had a few so I'll update on Tuesday, at least we can have an idea if we're making progress....
 

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