Reefer 350 water level drops in the return pump compartment

[Pimba]

Hi all, I'm totally new to sump systems and this is my first aquarium with a sump.

Within 12hours it's dropped from that 6in mark (as specified in the manual) to the level seen in the picture. Water level in the DT or other sections of the sump hasn't changed.

Currently have my ATO removed. So does that mean that drop is the amount of water evaporated in 12hrs or something else?


Using sicce syncra pro 3000 at the lowest flow setting.

 

[brightlifeaquaculture]

Yes your return chamber will show you evaporation levels.

 

[Fishingandreefing]

So in 12 hours, about how many inches of water did it drop? It shouldn’t be more than couple of inches.

 

[Pimba]

So in 12 hours, about how many inches of water did it drop? It shouldn’t be more than couple of inches.

It's probably less than an inch in about 12hrs. So probably the evaporation it is them

 

[Pimba]

How do I know if that drop is not due to the flow rate from the main downpipe valve not matching the rate that my return pump is pumping water back to the DT?

How do I exactly match the main downpipe valve to the flow rate of the return pipe?

 

[Tonycass12]

How do I know if that drop is not due to the flow rate from the main downpipe valve not matching the rate that my return pump is pumping water back to the DT?

How do I exactly match the main downpipe valve to the flow rate of the return pipe?

Your looking at evaporation. Flow rate will have little to nothing to do with this. All your other areas aquarium and sump are level controlled by the way the water has to flow. Your return pump chamber always shows evaporation.

 

[Pimba]

I'm new to sump systems so just trying to understand.

Assume my return pump is pumping water up at a rate of 100GPH and my red sea downflow value is set to 90GPH. What would happen in this instance?

 

[Tonycass12]

Your emergency drain would just put the extra water into your sump since your running beond what your full siphon (drain) line can handle. As far as I know thats the way red sea systems are plummed with one drain to run at full siphon and an emergency drain.

 

[blaxsun]

This is normal. Once you hook up your ATO and it starts maintaining the water level in the return chamber, you can adjust the float to raise or lower the water level.

Here's how I adjusted my tank:
1. Set the return pump speed to where you like.
2. Open the gate valve all the way, then slowly begin closing it (1/8" to 1/4" increments, then wait 5-10min between adjustments.
3. When the water level in the overflow is right at the edge of the emergency overflow pipe - stop.
4. Adjust the float for the ATO up or down to raise or lower the water level in your return pump chamber.

 

[coralfishreef]

If using an AC pump you can adjust the display water level with the drain valve in the sump. If there is too much flow into the display from the return pump you’ll see and hear the water going down the emergency drain.

If using a DC pump you can adjust the drain valve along with the pump speed.

For a quiet tank, the water level should be just below or barely above the emergency drain.

 

[HTReefer]

Hi all, I'm totally new to sump systems and this is my first aquarium with a sump.

Within 12hours it's dropped from that 6in mark (as specified in the manual) to the level seen in the picture. Water level in the DT or other sections of the sump hasn't changed.

Currently have my ATO removed. So does that mean that drop is the amount of water evaporated in 12hrs or something else?


Using sicce syncra pro 3000 at the lowest flow setting.

Yes, the water level change in your return pump area will show you the evaporation. Always keep your ATO monitoring the water level to avoid salinity swings which can be stressful for your fish and corals.

 

[Pimba]

Thanks everyone for replies!

 

[Pimba]

Ok so it wasn't really the water evaporation apparently. I had my water draining from the emergency drain pipe in the outflow box!

That means I need to turn my red sea drain valve anti clockwise to get more flow into the sump. I wonder that means I need to fiddle with the valve every few days unless I have the 2 flow rates (main drain and return pump) matched perfectly?

 

[Pimba]

Bump

 

[coralfishreef]

Once you get the drain valve dialed in you shouldn’t need to fiddle with the drain valve for weeks or months. The issue you’re running into is because the water volume is fluctuating. An ATO would resolve that. Or you could observe the water level in the return pump chamber, make a note of the level, and then manually top off the water to the same level every day.

 

[blaxsun]

Once you get the drain valve dialed in you shouldn’t need to fiddle with the drain valve for weeks or months. The issue you’re running into is because the water volume is fluctuating. An ATO would resolve that. Or you could observe the water level in the return pump chamber, make a note of the level, and then manually top off the water to the same level every day.

This. Once you set your return pump speed, adjust your gate valve to the optimum level and connect your ATO you'll almost never have to touch the gate valve again (the only exception to this is when cleaning your return pump, as you'll pick up a few % of performance after removing all the gunk).

 

[Pimba]

you'll almost never have to touch the gate valve again

You adjust the gate valve through manual inspection right. So unless you can match the flow rates perfectly you will need to adjust them regularly?

By that I mean, say my return pump operates at 100gph and I have set my gate valve to 95gph (very close you won't see any difference in water levels to visually adjust). Or other way round, return pump = 95gph and gate valve =100gph.

How do you deal with this? With canisters that I'm used to there's won't be such an issue.

 

[coralfishreef]

Adjust the valve until there is little to no noise. The water level will be barely above or below the emergency drain as shown in my photo.

You may need to make small adjustments every few weeks or months depending on your maintenance routine. For example if you use NoPox then the pipes and return pump blades may start to get a film on them which will slow down the flow. At this point the water level in the display will drop and you’ll start hearing a waterfall noise. If the noise starts bugging you then adjust the valve or clean the return pump.

 

[blaxsun]

You adjust the gate valve through manual inspection right. So unless you can match the flow rates perfectly you will need to adjust them regularly?

By that I mean, say my return pump operates at 100gph and I have set my gate valve to 95gph (very close you won't see any difference in water levels to visually adjust). Or other way round, return pump = 95gph and gate valve =100gph.

How do you deal with this? With canisters that I'm used to there's won't be such an issue.

Here's how I set mine. First, select your desired pump speed and open the gate valve completely. Then slowly (and by slowly, I mean 1/8" to 1/4" max) start closing the gate valve - waiting about 3-5min after each adjustment. When the water level reaches the edge of the emergency overflow (not the main overflow) - stop. Then setup and enable your ATO.

You may hear the occasional trickle down the emergency pipe - but this will soon resolve itself over a few days. As the pump gets dirtier the water level in the overflow will probably decrease slightly down from the edge of the emergency overflow. This is fine - leave it. Whenever you take the pump offline for cleaning or maintenance the water will backflow into the sump (also fine), but will return to normal levels in the tank and overflow within a few minutes of the pump being reactivated.