Reefkeeper PC4 Max Wattage?

DSmithZ28 · Apr 13, 2020

I have a couple of Digital Aquatics Reefkeepers still in operation and I have been trying to see what the max wattage per outlet would be? I would like to control 2 - 600w heaters. I have copies of all their manuals but cannot locate the max capacity per outlet. Thanks.

n2585722 · Apr 13, 2020

I remember that CH2 and CH3 are 3 amps max. I cannot remember the exact amout on CH1 and CH3 but it is more than the 3 amps. Also the total on the PC4 is 15 amps. Also you would have to know the surge current of your heaters. 600 watts is about 5 amps at 120v.

plankton · Apr 14, 2020

Yeah, the trick is not exceeding the total amps the PC4 can handle. Channel 1&4 are relay switched (Panasonic Electric JS1-9V which has max rating of 15A on the contacts) and 2&3 which are TRIAC switched (BTA12-800 which will switch up to 12A 800VAC). The trick with Triacs is making sure they have a good heat sink to dissipate the heat. As you can see from pic, the triacs are just mounted to circuit board which is not a good heat sink at all so you really can't push it. So, if Danny who used to work for DA recommends no more than 3Amps sustained then I stay below 3AM.

DSmithZ28 · Apr 14, 2020

Well that’s not what I wanted to hear. lol thank you very much for the information. I have two 600w titanium heaters on a Pinpoint controller but the hysteresis went bad and swings 1 degree in both directions. Have a BRS inkbird which is rated for two 600w heaters but it’s just as bad. Located this used reefkeeper and it works great just not enough amp service. Not sure what to do now.

n2585722 · Apr 14, 2020

You should be ok if you use CH1 for one and CH4 for the other. You would have to be careful with what you atttach to the remaining outlets. If you have 2 PC4's you can put one heater on CH1 or CH4 of one PC4 and the other heater on CH1 or CH4 of the other PC4. Just remember that The closer to the current limit the higher chance of a failure. Make sure you have a backup temp control on each heater set a couple degrees above your setting on the RKL. Relays can fail in the on or off state. Also they did have a PC1 that had single control of 2 outlets at 15 amps total. You may be able to find one of those for sale. If you have a RKL it has 4 module limit.

DSmithZ28 · Apr 14, 2020

n2585722 said:
You should be ok if you use CH1 for one and CH4 for the other. You would have to be careful with what you atttach to the remaining outlets. If you have 2 PC4's you can put one heater on CH1 or CH4 of one PC4 and the other heater on CH1 or CH4 of the other PC4. Just remember that The closer to the current limit the higher chance of a failure. Make sure you have a backup temp control on each heater set a couple degrees above your setting on the RKL. Relays can fail in the on or off state. Also they did have a PC1 that had single control of 2 outlets at 15 amps total. You may be able to find one of those for sale. If you have a RKL it has 4 module limit.

I have the BRS non adjustable titanium heaters. I was in a bind and needed something ASAP. The Jager True temps are insanely too large for my sump so I needed shorter. I’m not thrilled with my heating solution at all but I got to kick this can down the road until I get money for an apex.

n2585722 · Apr 14, 2020

DSmithZ28 said:
I have the BRS non adjustable titanium heaters. I was in a bind and needed something ASAP. The Jager True temps are insanely too large for my sump so I needed shorter. I’m not thrilled with my heating solution at all but I got to kick this can down the road until I get money for an apex.

I would recommed a backup as mentioned with the Apex also. Temp probes and powerbar outputs do fail. It is always good to have a backup. I even have my temp probe backed up by using a second probe on another module with alarms to turn off my heating and cooling if it get above or below certain point.