Refugium question

[Paulie069]

Should refugium chamber be bare bottom or does it need something covering the bottom ,, ie sand, or gravel. I have some gravel pebbels in mine and lately noticed a lot of dead cheato in some areas of the main bush ( lack of better term) I pull it off when I can but can’t seem to stay on top of it but my main bush feels strong and doesn’t fall apart , but doesn’t grow fast at all ,, I started with 2oz piece from Algee Barn and it’s about double the size now ,, been in there since January 17,,, should I remove gravel

 

[CubsFan]

Either way. I don’t have any in my current fuge. Makes it easier to clean. It does provide some bio filtration and a place for critters to live. My chaeto goes through phases depending on what my display is doing. Currently the macro in my display is outcompeting my fuge macro. It’s making my chaeto die off a bit.

 

[Paulie069]

Either way. I don’t have any in my current fuge. Makes it easier to clean. It does provide some bio filtration and a place for critters to live. My chaeto goes through phases depending on what my display is doing. Currently the macro in my display is outcompeting my fuge macro. It’s making my chaeto die off a bit.

What about putting macro in fuge with cheato

 

[CubsFan]

What about putting macro in fuge with cheato

It’s mostly caulerapa and halimeda. When I had dinos it knocked everything out in my tank. Stopped water changes and added uv and a bunch of macro to the sump. Since the macro in the display returned, the fuge macro has died off. The halimeda is difficult to remove unless I cut it and the caulerpa grows really fast. It’s ok. I like it. I’ve put chaeto in my nano with my gorilla crab, but he likes to tear it apart. I’ve also got a bunch of red macro in my sump and in my nano. It seems to do well no matter what.

 

[Paulie069]

It’s mostly caulerapa and halimeda. When I had dinos it knocked everything out in my tank. Stopped water changes and added uv and a bunch of macro to the sump. Since the macro in the display returned, the fuge macro has died off. The halimeda is difficult to remove unless I cut it and the caulerpa grows really fast. It’s ok. I like it. I’ve put chaeto in my nano with my gorilla crab, but he likes to tear it apart. I’ve also got a bunch of red macro in my sump and in my nano. It seems to do well no matter what.

I’m still a reef/ coral virgin ,, can u explain what caulerapa and halimeda is

 

[NS Mike D]

caulerpera speads much faster that cheato and overtakes it in my fuge. I am constantly cutting it back to give the cheato a chance to repopulate but the caulerpera just grows back faster. Also, it can go sexual and invade the entire system.

Macro agae is self regulating and use to keep NO3 and PO4 in check. What are your levels (using a realiable test kit and not API)?

If your nutrients are low, then there is no reason to grow more cheato,

Also, cheato grows better when it can tumble and the entire ball gets exposed to light

 

[NS Mike D]

I’m still a reef/ coral virgin ,, can u explain what caulerapa and halimeda is

other macro macro algae species. these typically get planted and opposed to free floating cheato and are commonly used in fuge filtrations set up using mud or other base

 

[CubsFan]

I’m still a reef/ coral virgin ,, can u explain what caulerapa and halimeda is

Caulerpa is a common macro algae that comes in different varieties. Halimeda is a calcified macro that I hadn’t been able to keep alive in the past, but it does very well in this tank. Might be related to my dosing 2 part. The rock I have is from Tampa bay saltwater. It grows several kinds of macros. Thought I murdered the rock when the dinoflagellates took over, but the macro has come back strong.

 

[Paulie069]

caulerpera speads much faster that cheato and overtakes it in my fuge. I am constantly cutting it back to give the cheato a chance to repopulate but the caulerpera just grows back faster. Also, it can go sexual and invade the entire system.

Macro agae is self regulating and use to keep NO3 and PO4 in check. What are your levels (using a realiable test kit and not API)?

If your nutrients are low, then there is no reason to grow more cheato,

Also, cheato grows better when it can tumble and the entire ball gets exposed to light

When I first got my 2oz bag of cheato it tumbled all time now it just sits on bottom and I flip it constantly throughout the day, it’s about 5-6oz size now ( put it in tank January 17) I have tons of copepods in it , so today I cut it in half and put an egg create divider between the 2 half’s. See what happens

 

[Paulie069]

When I first got my 2oz bag of cheato it tumbled all time now it just sits on bottom and I flip it constantly throughout the day, it’s about 5-6oz size now ( put it in tank January 17) I have tons of copepods in it , so today I cut it in half and put an egg create divider between the 2 half’s. See what happens

Also have Red Sea test kit for cal, mag, all, and nitrate,, use Hanna digital reactor for phosphates,, today while cleaning cheato chamber I decided to give full OCD cleaning wound up emptying out all water and scrub all glass 360..(20gal) filled back up fresh ocean water and will do full spectrum test tomorrow morning,,, what about bottom of refugium chamber should it be bare or something on bottom

 

[Dave Cureton]

Yes bare bottom is ideal. It makes it easier to clean and less places for gunk to settle.

 

[Paulie069]

Yes bare bottom is ideal. It makes it easier to clean and less places for gunk to settle.

Thank you so much for confirming that for me it is a bare bottom Now that I have cleaned it out I plan to leave it that way and hopefully will be happy with results

 

[TruckerTami]

A small powerhead/pump can help you keep the chaeto tumbling if you have room for one.