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- Jul 16, 2009
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Not bothered at all. Water on your floor, not mine.I figured people were thinking I was removing the WHOLE rim, when I'm not. I was just making my whole situation clear. Sorry that bothered you so much.
The point; numerous people have consistently offered you the proper answer and you have pretty much dismissed all of them.
But now that I have your attention.
If you remove the two back stiffeners then all of the outward load moves to the cross brace and is point loaded in the center of the panel.
Glass has a pretty crappy tensile strength and that piece is rather narrow. Also being narrow the silicone joint will be under significant shear stress. So both are undersized for the task.
There is no bottom trim to hold the corners together and/or buffer the flatness of the bottom, so the joints in this tank are more prone to separation if there is torsional forces on the tank. The braces stiffen the entire tank and help to offset some of this.
Glass thickness is about preventing deflection but also about joint surface area.
Trimless tanks have a higher failure rate, especially those with thinner glass, as there is more bowing and less joint surface area.
So thickness for thickness trimmed or braced tanks have a much higher safety factor (lower failure rate) than unbraced.
Your tank, do as you please…. But the wise advice is to not remove the bracing.
You don’t want to drill or have your LFS drill… then call Jeff at Lifereef and he will build you a quality custom HOB overflow to fit.
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