Royal Gramma flashing!

Cease565

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I’ve been dosing my tank with poly lab reef medic because I noticed my clownfish had a white spot on his anal and top fin. I’ve noticed that shortly after I dose my royal gramma begins to flash against the sandbed. He is the only fish that is flashing I’m not sure if I should remove him before he contaminates the other fish or if it’s too late. All fish are eating.
 

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Sounds like it could be ich or something else.

Have you been able to confirm what disease they are suffering from?

I would remove all fish and medicate in QT.
 
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Cease565

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Sounds like it could be ich or something else.

Have you been able to confirm what disease they are suffering from?

I would remove all fish and medicate in QT.
I’m not sure what it is. I don’t see any white spots on any other fish nor the one that is flashing. I will finish the ich treatment then treat for flukes. If none of it works I might just give up on this hobby because I’ve been through this before on a previous tank where I tried everything and my fish kept flashing. That why i want to remove the one fish that is flashing in this tank because that’s how it started it the other one and eventually all my fish were flashing.
 

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I’m not sure what it is. I don’t see any white spots on any other fish nor the one that is flashing. I will finish the ich treatment then treat for flukes. If none of it works I might just give up on this hobby because I’ve been through this before on a previous tank where I tried everything and my fish kept flashing. That why i want to remove the one fish that is flashing in this tank because that’s how it started it the other one and eventually all my fish were flashing.

Did you QT the fish before adding them to display?

Polyp Lab Medic is not effective at treating Ich. You must use either copper or hypo.

At the end of the day if you want to prevent disease in your fish they must be QT'd. Inverts must also follow a seperate QT as well. Yes many people are able to keep sucessfull tanks without QT, but like you I have had tank wipe outs and don't want to go through that again.

QT doesn't have to be expensive. Just pick up a 10 gallon at petco and a sponge filter.

Please see the following link for more information on treatment.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/thread-links-to-all-things-quarantine-fish-inverts.602917/
 
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Cease565

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Did you QT the fish before adding them to display?

Polyp Lab Medic is not effective at treating Ich. You must use either copper or hypo.

At the end of the day if you want to prevent disease in your fish they must be QT'd. Inverts must also follow a seperate QT as well. Yes many people are able to keep sucessfull tanks without QT, but like you I have had tank wipe outs and don't want to go through that again.

QT doesn't have to be expensive. Just pick up a 10 gallon at petco and a sponge filter.

Please see the following link for more information on treatment.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/thread-links-to-all-things-quarantine-fish-inverts.602917/
I did not quarantine. I bought all my fish from Live Aquaria who claims to quarantine all livestock for 2 weeks before putting them up for sale. I have a quarantine tank but it’s a hassle having to re-cycle it every time I’m going to use it and it’s also a hassle having to maintain two tanks at the same time should I decide to leave fish in there so I don’t lose my cycle. The royal gramma is currently undergoing a 1 hour dip in paraguard. Might leave him in longer if he doesn’t show signs of stress. I might even freshwater dip him after. I’ve been constantly watching all my fish carefully and he is the only one I’ve ever seen flash and today he was doing it constantly. Hopefully this will fix the problem. As a last resort I might just get rid of all my inverts and dose copper straight into the display.
 

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I did not quarantine. I bought all my fish from Live Aquaria who claims to quarantine all livestock for 2 weeks before putting them up for sale. I have a quarantine tank but it’s a hassle having to re-cycle it every time I’m going to use it and it’s also a hassle having to maintain two tanks at the same time should I decide to leave fish in there so I don’t lose my cycle. The royal gramma is currently undergoing a 1 hour dip in paraguard. Might leave him in longer if he doesn’t show signs of stress. I might even freshwater dip him after. I’ve been constantly watching all my fish carefully and he is the only one I’ve ever seen flash and today he was doing it constantly. Hopefully this will fix the problem. As a last resort I might just get rid of all my inverts and dose copper straight into the display.

Why dose copper in the display?

The strategy IMO (if this is a reef tank) is leave the inverts and pull all the fish. Put the fish into QT with copper for 72 days (or less if using TTM). Leave the inverts and let the tank run fishless for 72 days. The DT will not "lose its cycle".

The other strategy is to manage the disease, not eradicate, which is what you just suggested. Even if you cure one fish, its likely that all fish in the display are affected, even if they dont show symptoms.
 
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Cease565

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Why dose copper in the display?

The strategy IMO (if this is a reef tank) is leave the inverts and pull all the fish. Put the fish into QT with copper for 72 days (or less if using TTM). Leave the inverts and let the tank run fishless for 72 days. The DT will not "lose its cycle".

The other strategy is to manage the disease, not eradicate, which is what you just suggested. Even if you cure one fish, its likely that all fish in the display are affected, even if they dont show symptoms.
I don’t have any coral just fish and inverts. It’s just confusing because i hear different things from different people. The owner of a lfs told me quarantine puts too much stress on the fish. He said as long as the fish are eating let them fight the disease or try reef safe medicine. The reason I’m using poly lab is a girl from a different lfs recommended it said it worked In her nano. Again all this stuff can be super stressful sometimes. I’m seriously considering selling everything if it gets worse. We’ll see what happens. Thanks for the advice anyway.
 

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The majority of people don't QT. You can check out the threads here on QT and why people do it.

Treating in the display is fine if you don't plan on keeping corals.

You could always downsize, simplify or go to fresh instead of leaving all together.

I just had a major outbreak in my 90g that killed all my fish. I almost left the hobby as well. Decided to downsize to a 30 gallon and I have been very happy with it so far.

Less fish to QT and my corals do a good job of filling up the tank.
 

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Any ways I don't mean to push you away or be too harsh.

If there is anyway we can help, let us know.

I always hate to see someone leave the hobby but I understand that it isnt for everyone.
 
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Cease565

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Any ways I don't mean to push you away or be too harsh.

If there is anyway we can help, let us know.

I always hate to see someone leave the hobby but I understand that it isnt for everyone.
I just saw this. Thanks for the advice my plan is going to be buy all the fish I want and as soon as I know I will not be getting any more fish I will remove the liverock and treat all my fish with copper to exterminate all parasites once and for all. After I run carbon to remove copper i will return the liverock and maybe try inverts in the future. I’ve heard of people who have dosed their display tank with copper before add inverts and they were fine.
 

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I’ve been dosing my tank with poly lab reef medic because I noticed my clownfish had a white spot on his anal and top fin. I’ve noticed that shortly after I dose my royal gramma begins to flash against the sandbed. He is the only fish that is flashing I’m not sure if I should remove him before he contaminates the other fish or if it’s too late. All fish are eating.

If one fish is sick ("contaminated"), you must assume that all are.
 

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If none of it works I might just give up on this hobby because I’ve been through this before on a previous tank where I tried everything and my fish kept flashing.

I was in the hobby for 5 or 6 years before I had any real success. And while there are some people who are successful at the hobby without QT, I am not one of them.

You have to be willing to put the time and effort in. You must be attentive to details, faithful in your water changes and diligent in your husbandry.

Reef tanks are not something that you can "set it and forget it".
 

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The owner of a lfs told me quarantine puts too much stress on the fish.

I don't buy this.

If you buy a fish and put him into a tank when you get home, what difference is it if it is a QT or a DT? It is a new environment for the fish, and there may be some stress. But to suggest that it is more stressful to put a new fish in QT instead of a DT? Sorry... I just don't buy it.
 

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