Safe phosphate removers

[mjw011689]

I’m looking for safe phosphate remover. I’m familiar and comfortable using gfo, never had any issues with it. However, this particular tank does not have the ability for me to put a filter for gfo (or a reactor which is my preferred method).

I’m super hesitant to use brightwell phosphat-e. This tank does not have a skimmer or filter socks or anything to run it through. Are there any doseable phos removers that are safe?

 

[Saltyreef]

I’m looking for safe phosphate remover. I’m familiar and comfortable using gfo, never had any issues with it. However, this particular tank does not have the ability for me to put a filter for gfo (or a reactor which is my preferred method).

I’m super hesitant to use brightwell phosphat-e. This tank does not have a skimmer or filter socks or anything to run it through. Are there any doseable phos removers that are safe?

What kind of tank?

 

[Fish Fan]

And what is your phosphate concentration?

Have you considered adding macro algae to the display or running a lighted, Cheato 'fuge or an algae turf scrubber?

 

[Hammy]

I’d be careful with anything that drops phosphate too quickly. If you can run a small amount of GFO in a media bag somewhere with decent flow, that would probably be my choice. Start with less than the recommended amount and test regularly

 

[56longroof]

Rowaphos is probably one of the better options for gfo.

 

[mjw011689]

Sorry everyone, should’ve elaborated a bit more.

The tank is primarily a frag/growout tank. It’s not drilled, so no sump, and it’s euro braced acrylic, so not really any way to put a hang on filter.

Im not totally against adding an internal filter and filling with gfo/rowaphos, but I’m also trying to minimize cluttering the tank which is why I haven’t done it thus far.

Since this is a coral tank, chaeto prob won’t grow well in the display, and since it’s euro braced I don’t really have a way to do a hang on fuge.

Current phos is 0.25. Not terrible, but much higher than I normally like. But also, until yesterday I had no traceable nitrate. As of today I’m at 2 nitrates and that’s from dosing. I’m hesitant to use anything like nopox, as my experience has been that it reduces nitrate much faster than phos and id just bottom out again.

Currently thinking either a filter bag dropped in the display or an internal filter are going to be the best options for running gfo.

 

[Fish Fan]

Since this is a coral tank, chaeto prob won’t grow well in the display.

You can add varieties of decorative macro algae (not Cheato) to a display tank to reduce phosphate.

I’m hesitant to use anything like nopox, as my experience has been that it reduces nitrate much faster than phos and id just bottom out again.

Yes, Nopox is like carbon dosing, which has a greater effect on nitrate vs. phosphate.

Your phosphate level isn't bad at all. I personally like Randy Holmes-Farley's take a nutrient levels at this link:
https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/randy’s-thoughts-on-nutrient-target-ranges.1087/

From the above link, Randy writes:
"4. What targets seem reasonable? Of course, that depends on all the other factors at play, such as types of corals, availability of ammonia, particulate foods, etc. However, for a mature mixed reef, this would be how I personally would run it:

• Let nitrate float between 5 ppm and 50 ppm. I’d use gentle export in this range, such as growing macroalgae.
• Above 50 ppm, I’d begin to focus more on reducing it, by organic carbon dosing, turf or macroalgae, etc.
• Below 5 ppm, I’d begin to dose ammonia or feed more. The target level might drop lower if dosing ammonia, just like the heavy in/heavy out scenario where nitrate may not be as needed.
• Let phosphate float between about 0.06 ppm and 0.3 ppm. This range is higher than I’ve recommended in the past. I’d use gentle export in this range, such as growing macroalgae.
• Above about 0.3 ppm, I’d begin to focus more on reducing it, by turf or macroalgae, or a binder such as GFO or lanthanum (has its own risks to tangs). If a binder: GO SLOW. Turf and macroalgae will typically be slow enough.
• Below 0.06 ppm, I’d begin to dose sodium phosphate or feed more to get the level up."

With this in mind, I'd be looking to add some decorative macro algae, which can reduce your phosphate, and don't look like an internal filter full of GFO

I hope this helps and good luck!

 

[mjw011689]

This does help, thanks for the info! I just assumed macros wouldn’t really grow under the heavy blue we run in reed tanks. I don’t run as much blue as most, but still.

Also, when did the range for phosphate jump so high? I mean sure it depends on the type of coral, but surely most will do better under the .1 mark, wouldn’t they?

 

[Fish Fan]

This does help, thanks for the info! I just assumed macros wouldn’t really grow under the heavy blue we run in reed tanks. I don’t run as much blue as most, but still.

They will grow when given enough photo energy, and if you can grow coral you can grow macro algae. Having a lower color temp that mimics shallow tidal pools in the 6500K to 10000K range will arguably present algae in the best light, but they can definitely grow in the 'deep blue' of reef lights.

Also, when did the range for phosphate jump so high? I mean sure it depends on the type of coral, but surely most will do better under the .1 mark, wouldn’t they?

There's always a lot of debate about what levels to run. I follow Randy Holmes-Farley's advice since he's been a reef tank guru for almost 30 years, and he's a professional chemist - seems good enough for me

Other reefers may have other suggestions, but I like what Randy has laid out.

I hope this helps!

 

[xzt]

I have been growing some red macroalgae in my aquarium, but their impact on phosphate levels is negligible. I've heard that green macroalgae are more effective at absorbing phosphate—does anyone happen to have tested that?

 

[Aqua Ultraviolet]

I’m looking for safe phosphate remover. I’m familiar and comfortable using gfo, never had any issues with it. However, this particular tank does not have the ability for me to put a filter for gfo (or a reactor which is my preferred method).

I’m super hesitant to use brightwell phosphat-e. This tank does not have a skimmer or filter socks or anything to run it through. Are there any doseable phos removers that are safe?

If you cannot run GFO, I would be cautious with liquid phosphate removers, especially without a skimmer or mechanical filtration to remove the resulting particles. A safer approach may be to focus on reducing phosphate at the source through feeding and regular maintenance. If you do use a liquid remover, start with a very small dose and monitor phosphate closely rather than trying to lower it quickly.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

This does help, thanks for the info! I just assumed macros wouldn’t really grow under the heavy blue we run in reed tanks. I don’t run as much blue as most, but still.

Also, when did the range for phosphate jump so high? I mean sure it depends on the type of coral, but surely most will do better under the .1 mark, wouldn’t they?

Ever seen evidence of that that anyone has ever shown? I think for years phosphate had a bad rap.

 

[X-37B]

Ever seen evidence of that that anyone has ever shown? I think for years phosphate had a bad rap.

Nope.
I used to keep po4 @<.1 for years with good results.
I let it get to .2 with no visual change in the system. Kept it between .1&.2 for several months no difference. Last test was over .3 and the system looks the same.
I now only adjust at .3 and run between .2&.3.
Less po4 remover and the my system looks no different.
Dont think I want to go over .3 so for now .2-.3 is my range.
No undesirable algae in the system either.

 

[VintageReefer]

I’ve gone from .05 to .9 and had no negative effect on sps or lps. These days I’m around .3-.4 comfortably

 

[X-37B]

I’ve gone from .05 to .9 and had no negative effect on sps or lps. These days I’m around .3-.4 comfortably

Curious, how did you decide on .3-.4 range?
.2-.3 looks good in my system but have not had it above .4 yet and not sure of the risk/benifit of running that high long term.
How long were you at the upper #? .

 

[mjw011689]

Ever seen evidence of that that anyone has ever shown? I think for years phosphate had a bad rap.

Sure haven’t, and after reading your article that was posted above, I’m starting to think there is no one that can. Understanding that corals take time to change the mechanism they can consume N and P makes the whole “slow changes are better” make a lot more sense. I’m starting to think more coral deaths in my tanks were caused by other things or just too quick of changes rather than a direct number of phos or nitrate.

 

[56longroof]

Ever seen evidence of that that anyone has ever shown? I think for years phosphate had a bad rap.

When I first started phosphate was the major nutrient everyone blamed for hair algea. Despite other issues that may have caused it.

 

[VintageReefer]

Curious, how did you decide on .3-.4 range?
.2-.3 looks good in my system but have not had it above .4 yet and not sure of the risk/benifit of running that high long term.
How long were you at the upper #? .

I ran .9 for about a month then slowly tapered down to .3 to .4

That was the point where it became difficult to get it lower. Everything is doing good and I didn’t want to put in the extra effort to bring it down further, and I feel my corals look better at .3 - .4 then they did at .05.
Gonis definitely extending more!

 

[VintageReefer]

I ran .9 for about a month then slowly tapered down to .3 to .4

That was the point where it became difficult to get it lower. Everything is doing good and I didn’t want to put in the extra effort to bring it down further, and I feel my corals look better at .3 - .4 then they did at .05.
Gonis definitely extending more!

I always ran in the <.1 range and then had an event that rapidly spiked me to .93

I didn’t want to bring it down to fast and brought it down slowly over the course of a few months. When I got to .3ish it wouldn’t go lower without changing / implementing new methods and I decided to back off, the tank is happy, and the numbers are steady, so I let it stay here. It fluctuates a little, it stays .3-.4 on its own