Salifert ammonia reading problem

[mooputingtong]

we

We never discerned bottle bac use


I went solely off living fish within this time frame to assume the tank was cycled commonly either with live rock or bottled bac and twenty days is longer than any of their instruction time on the labels, assessing your cycle done had components

The fact you don't have much ammonia there above signifies it's not built up, fish waste being taken care of is easy for today's bottle bac

how did you cycle it

I used bio spira and fritz ammonium for ammonia source. I used 45lb of dry rock and added livestock when ammonia zero nitrate 5 or less than 10. First fish added was bi blenny and its active and ate the next day. My wrasse also came out yesterday and ate mysis shrimp. I recently transfered coral from my old tank and they seems doing better.

 

[ScubaFish802]

Good idea. They see colors more vividly then men. Rods and cones

Is this actually true? Not that I would ever tell her that . . lol

out of the 3 phosphate is the one I was considering, read good and bad, thought I’d go for it, was ordering on the phone and the guy told me not to buy it, he recommended salifert, so a £10 recommendation over a £75 Hanna, I agree salifert is good but for sps I would go for elos, lps salifert or elos, may still try Hanna phosphate when I have some money burning a hole, dkh And cal find salifert very good.

I guess I'll stick with Salifert then. Has anyone here tried the phone RGB method that's been posted on here before? That may be another alternative. Link Here

 

[Karen00]

Companies should release kits that are really accurate and easy to read. All of the kits are just stressful reading and it looks different based on what lights u have

+1 on this. The API nitrate (freshwater) is the worst. It's almost next to impossible to know of you're in the safe zone of 40 or the danger zone of 80 and above. If you then add in that the test readings are often inaccurate then across the board it's stressful for both saltwater and freshwater. These tests aren't cheap either!

 

[92Miata]

Good idea. They see colors more vividly then men. Rods and cones

Is this actually true? Not that I would ever tell her that . . lol

Seriously. And yeah - its true. They're also way less likely to have some form of color-blindness.

The only color-scale based test I have left is the Nyos nitrate - which I have my wife read because all I can tell is that its >3 and < 40. Every time someone posts that its easy to read, it makes me want to strangle them.

And apparently the hanna checker is both going to have like 45 steps, and be too low range to be useful without significant dilutions.



Honestly, I don't understand why people are still buying ammonia tests, let alone ammonia. Pour a bottle of BioSpira in the tank. Give it a day, and then add a fish or two. Easy peasy. It works, and you don't waste weeks only to end up with high nitrates and Brandon yelling at you to rip your tank apart because you've got all sorts of weird algae from having high nitrates and bottomed out phosphates and vibrant and chemiclean and nopox are just shifting your problems around.

Dr Tims has you dose up to 4 ppm - that's the sort of levels we see when you drop a ton of beat up uncured gulf rock into a tank with stuff dying all over it. Being able to process that sort of load is completely unnecessary unless your plan is to drop like 6 tangs into the tank at the same time. Its cycle-****.

People need to stop trying to make this hard. Its not.

OP - your tank is cycled. Stop worrying and start Reefing

 

[ASIN28]

I use salifert kits also and I have a very hard time. Depending on what light you are in, the color looks different. I’ll be standing one way and it will read 0 and then face the opposite direction and it’s toxic levels when I know it’s not. Just use real daylight when reading it

 

[mooputingtong]

I use salifert kits also and I have a very hard time. Depending on what light you are in, the color looks different. I’ll be standing one way and it will read 0 and then face the opposite direction and it’s toxic levels when I know it’s not. Just use real daylight when reading it

i always get confused and afraid i might misread. i want to be really accurate when it comes to testing but it seems like these kits on markets are not 100% reliable.

 

[Reef.]

i always get confused and afraid i might misread. i want to be really accurate when it comes to testing but it seems like these kits on markets are not 100% reliable.

seems that way now, give it a few months and you will work out what test kit you prefer, you’ll soon learn which ones are good, once cycled a test kit is not going to wipe a tank, just try a few, some you know straight away it’s a good one.

 

[ASIN28]

i always get confused and afraid i might misread. i want to be really accurate when it comes to testing but it seems like these kits on markets are not 100% reliable.

I would definitely compare it to the color chart but in reality you can tel just by looking at it without matching it up that it’s 0 or if it has color to it

 

[mooputingtong]

We never discerned bottle bac use


I went solely off living fish within this time frame to assume the tank was cycled commonly either with live rock or bottled bac and twenty days is longer than any of their instruction time on the labels, assessing your cycle done had components

The fact you don't have much ammonia there above signifies it's not built up, fish waste being taken care of is easy for today's bottle bac

how did you cycle it

Its few pics of my current red sea 250.

 

[brandon429]

Hey nice open scape + Clean lines and when the rocks get uglies you can maximize a scape like that by lifting out the rocks and killing the organism target, hand gardening, which is opposite that dosing the water, waiting, and affecting corals with the changes designed to starve a target

youll have to do that when it’s all packed in place. But not now