SlothMartin
Community Member
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2026
- Messages
- 55
- Reaction score
- 32
- Location
- Central PA
- What state or country do you live in
- Pennsylvania
Hi would you guys mind pointing out anything i should or could do differently with my saltwater mixing station?
this is all just dry fit and no holes cut in the tanks yet, aside from the bulkheads that came on it.
the first picture is intended setup, 2nd is with the manifold tighter to the tanks to keep it more compact, but then i have to run 90 degree runs through the top bulkheads which i am not sure is worth it
specs for those interested:
55g roto molded tanks from "emergency water tanks" which had free shipping which made them pretty cheap compared to others i have seen
blue for RODI and grey for salt
3/4" schedule 80 fittings from BRS. kept at 3/4" just because thats what the bulkheads were so i didnt have to have a step up/down
pump is a jecod 10,000 (same as display return so can be used as a spare)
will have a port/bulkhead in the RODI tank so i can pump fresh rodi in. eventual plan is to have RODI lines run straight from the filters into the RODI tank, and then a hydros duet from the salt side (if they ever release it) for auto water changes so its pretty hands off. plan is for this to eventually go to the basement
until then ill pull the saltwater from the tap in front with a hose to the tank.
issues i am thinking about
- if the saltwater is not totally empty and i pump a full tank of rodi in, and exceed the volume, how do i prevent overflow? auto stop linked from a float valve to the pump running on a hydros unit?
- i have to have salt on top so i can pour the salt in. that means when i pump from RODI to salt i will have a 400lb tank of water sitting on an empty tank. is that OK? i assume so since they are made to be stacked, but will test in the driveway first
anything else i am not thinking of?
next steps are to drill top bulkheads for the pump, ports to manually add RODI, and then glue up, pressure test outside
