Should I buy Bacter7 to treat dino?

[Subnautica]

I have amphidinium due to the shape of the critters under microscope, also UV could not kill them (tried UV for a week and did not improve).

Should I treat my tank with MB7? My LFS has one on sale.

Salinity 1.025
Nitrate 20
Phosphate 0.05

 

[Subnautica]

Bump

 

[Aquaman102]

I've started dosing Microbacter7 in my dino battle. If your intent is to introduce competing bacteria, go for it. Keep an eye on Nitrate and Phophaste because, as I understand it, Microbacter 7 is a de-nitrifier, so it will reduce your nutrients. Watch your levels and dose nitrates and phosphates to keep them up.

 

[Subnautica]

I've started dosing Microbacter7 in my dino battle. If your intent is to introduce competing bacteria, go for it. Keep an eye on Nitrate and Phophaste because, as I understand it, Microbacter 7 is a de-nitrifier, so it will reduce your nutrients. Watch your levels and dose nitrates and phosphates to keep them up.

So isn't it contradicting to dose a denitrifier then dose no3 po4 back in?

 

[living_tribunal]

I’d first get nutrients up and then consider it. I’ve heard anecdotal reports of this working but I’d stick to the tried and true methods of Dino removal first. It’s too risky to allow and get out of control.

 

[Aquaman102]

So isn't it contradicting to dose a denitrifier then dose no3 po4 back in?

I've been told that the bacteria in Microbacter7 feeds on n03 and p04, so it can deplete your existing nutrients to 0, thus helping dino's take over. The strategy is to dose N03 and P04 so that the nutrient levels don't fall to 0 while treating with Microbacter7.

 

[living_tribunal]

So isn't it contradicting to dose a denitrifier then dose no3 po4 back in?

I agree with this sentiment but I guess the whole notion is you raise nutrients so that algae can outcompete the amphidinium or osteo so why not supply bacteria that can start out competing the Dino immediately.

I understand the logic but once again, I don’t know if the bacteria in the m7 could be enough for Dino.

Might be a good experiment for op to test for the rest of us.

If I were to go about conducting said experiment, I’d raise nutrients even higher than I normally would to combat Dino I.e. ~2ppm nitrate and .05 phosphate a day and see what happens. At least that also gives some algae a chance to grow.

 

[living_tribunal]

Another thing to consider is the lifespan of mb7. It doesn’t last longer than a few days so I doubt it’s really a sufficient battle strategy.

I wouldn’t risk it and just stick to the good ole uv if osteo coupled with raising nutrients. Then a good ole fashioned blackout if worse comes to worse.

 

[Mical]

+1 on giving UV longer to work, a week is not a fair amount of time to judge if UV is working or not. Dinos didn't magically appear in a week, so don't expect it to disappear quickly. Save you $$$ and let UV do it's thing.

 

[living_tribunal]

+1 on giving UV longer to work, a week is not a fair amount of time to judge if UV is working or not. Dinos didn't magically appear in a week, so don't expect it to disappear quickly. Save you $$$ and let UV do it's thing.

I’ll +2 on this but op did say he has amohidinium which doesn’t stay in the column as much as osteo does. It also depends on if it’s large or small amphidinium.

Regardless, Dino often takes multiple combat strategies and I wouldn’t turn off th uv if I were op. It will still do some damage, enough to tip the scales in favor or algae.

 

[AlwaysHatingNathan]

If every saying that get algae to outcompete it, then maybe look into diy Chaeto reactor? I don’t really know, I have fortunately not had to deal with dinos so just giving my possible two cents.

 

[Mical]

I save "chemical strategies" as a last resort. Adding chemicals to alleviate one problem usually (I use that loosely) triggers another. IMO. I'ld let the UV work on it, sure it might take up to a month or longer depending on your UV unit but I'ld rather have that than have a total tank crash.

 

[living_tribunal]

If every saying that get algae to outcompete it, then maybe look into diy Chaeto reactor? I don’t really know, I have fortunately not had to deal with dinos so just giving my possible two cents.

From my noobish understanding, the reason you can’t rely on chaeto is the algae needs to compete with the Dino on the actual surfaces of the tank.

This 1000% could be wrong but it’s what I’ve heard. Otherwise everyone would be running their fuge 24/7 after getting Dino.

 

[AlwaysHatingNathan]

From my noobish understanding, the reason you can’t rely on chaeto is the algae needs to compete with the Dino on the actual surfaces of the tank.

This 1000% could be wrong but it’s what I’ve heard. Otherwise everyone would be running their fuge 24/7 after getting Dino.

Ahhh gotcha well if that’s case, feed your tank extra then, just bring up your nitrates and phosphates slightly

 

[living_tribunal]

Ahhh gotcha well if that’s case, feed your tank extra then, just bring up your nitrates and phosphates slightly

Nathan,







I don't hate you.

 

[2Wheelsonly]

I have yet to experience any bottled bacteria solution reduce nutrients. The only time I had success was with prodibio which is too hard to get these days and even that took a solid year of monthly dosing to start working.

In my experience, mb7 helps with cyano but very, very slowly (1-2 months of daily dosing).

 

[LOVEROCK]

I have yet to experience any bottled bacteria solution reduce nutrients. The only time I had success was with prodibio which is too hard to get these days and even that took a solid year of monthly dosing to start working.

In my experience, mb7 helps with cyano but very, very slowly (1-2 months of daily dosing).

what is prodibio

 

[2Wheelsonly]

what is prodibio

It's a sealed/bottled bacteria product from a french company.